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Hi All, After a few tough years I'm finally in a place where I have some breathing space and really want to get back in my 205. I converted it to a GTI6 in around 2009 and used it every day until around 2016 for loads of boring reasons it was parked up and used rarely until 2019 and its sat in the garage since. Anyway I've spent some time trying to start it over the weekend an its doesn't want to play. It turns over just fine but wont run. Steps I've taken are: Charged battery Fresh fuel New fuel filter New plugs oil service New Fuel Regulator - when I changed this there was plenty of fuel at the rail. I can here the pump priming which is good but for some reason the 'stop' light on the dash isn't lighting up and when it did briefly run for a second or two I noticed the rev counter didn't work? Not sure if that's relevant? Anyway any ideas or a nudge in the right direction would be amazing as really want to use this year. Apols if this is in the wrong spot Cheers John.

Edit: I'm writing this before posting because I don't feel like rewriting it all but I still want to share as it might help someone else with similar problems. Before pressing post I decided to go outside and doublecheck the stop light switch and the fuse box, which I did before I started writing initially. Low and behold I saw a broken fuse that I had initially missed in the cold. Fuse number 28, 15A, was gone. The fuse responsible for "Instrument panel, digital clock, height adjustment control unit, stop lights, differential lock, ride height adjustment". I replaced it and all my problems went away. Moral of the story, check and doublecheck the fuses and such obvious things before going online. Hi! I've got a -95 405 with a 2L 8v engine. It has worked fine until it got a bit colder and wetter in late september. Since then I've had electrical issues that I just can't seem to hunt down. The first issue (which I solved) was that the ABS brake system was not working and it was due to a burned out contact between the left rear light and the harness. At some point a towing hook had been added to the car and the people that did the conversion used t-tap connectors which had stripped down one wire longer and longer over time and that had caused periodic shorts to ground and as a consequence a burned connector. With the cable fixed and the connector restored the ABS brakes started working and the ABS light isn't shining any more. I figured it out because I noticed that the ABS system would be fine until I either put the car in reverse or if i used left indicators. If I did neither of those the ABS light didn't come on. Now to the second problem which I've not managed to hunt down. The alternator light is on when the engine is running. The alternator is completely fine, it gives good voltage at all RPMs and the battery hasn't shown any signs of running low. The alternator light shines brighter when I press down the brake pedal, and when this happens the clock light goes out as well as the lights for the electrical windows. The electrical windows don't work while the brake pedal is pressed. Further more the brake lights do not come on when the brake pedal is depressed. Both problems started roughly at the same time and all other lights work. The most useful thing I've found in Haynes manual is attached below but it doesn't really tell me anything since all the fuses are fine. To sum up the problem; No brake lights. Alternator light is on despite alternator working fine and shines brighter when brake is used. Clock light goes out when brake is used Electrical window and their lights stop working when brake is used. Thank you for reading.

Bit of a weird un this one....i changed my dash and full loom from a mark 1 to a mark 2 but kept the original clocks for the milage and ever since the STOP light hasnt worked, it worked before. So....tonight i have taken the clocks apart and have discovered something unusual. While i had the clocks out i had the oil pressure switch and oil pressure guage wires earthed to check for continuity at the dashboard. The pressure was at max but no stop light, tried a multitude of bulb swapping including swapping to the clocks from the mark 2 car still no stop light. Got stressed in the end and did a drum solo on top of it and finished off with a slam dunk which did absolutely bog all except hurt my hands, why do 205s get us like this? In the end thought bollox to it want to go out so putting it all back together now and it can stay not working. While i had the bulbs out i took a picture of the circuit err ribbon? Is that what its called, its certainly not a board, anyway heres what i found... You can see that the top connection goes to a pin that has no connector in the blue plug that fits on the back of the clocks so how in the hell does the stop light work? Now thats not the only weird thing, when i put it back together and the dash top back on and switched the ignition on the bloody stop light has now started working so whats going on with the bulb connection thing? WEIRD