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Dear All, I've had the starter motor clicking problem getting gradually worse for quite a while now. As with the other threads describing this, the key would turn, you'd hear a click from under the bonnet somewhere, and nothing would happen. Then, often if you keep turning the key over and over, eventually the starter would kick into life and everything would be good. Over the last couple of weeks this has gotten so bad that unless the battery was literally full (or on the charger), then no starting at all! So, I decided to do a little rewiring work in the engine bay, and also add the relay booster circuit which is described in several of the other threads. I took the opportunity to do a few things at once, including new starter motor, new alternator, completely replace everything after the brown multiplug (previously replaced with superseals), and add the relay. The relay circuit uses the starter feed from ignition, to energize a relay, before going to earth. The switched circuit of the relay goes from the large permanent live on the starter motor, through the relay and back to the solenoid start terminal which the starter feed would originally have been connected to, as shown in the below picture. Is this correct? Testing this on the bench, it seemed to work perfectly. Starter would come on, and stop immediately on removal of the signal feed to the relay. I then fitted it to the vehicle, and reassembled everything. When I came to start up for the first time, she fired immediately. Almost like she was on a hair trigger! Which I was delighted with, up until I noticed the engine noise was very different. I immediately switched off, and after the engine had stopped I could hear the starter winding down. i.e. the starter was remaining engaged (and powered) even though the ignition was not in the starting position. I tried starting several times, always with the same effect. So I've neatly gone from no starter at all, to a starter which won't turn off! Great. Does anyone have any ideas of what I've done wrong here? I've done quite a bit of work around the front end, so my relay mod might not be the only possible cause. I did notice that the starter is very twitchy on the key, and kicks in immediately if you so much as tickle the key past the ignition on position. Therefore, I was wondering if the ignition barrel might be making partial contact in ignition on, which isn't enough to cause a problem without the relay, but now is enough to be relevant? If that were the case you'd expect it to be permanently on whenever you've moved the key into the on position (but not as far as start). Any suggestions would be gratefully received! Many thanks, Mike

Hi, We are currently working on a 205 Gti 1.6 We have 5 young people doing it up with us but we have been having some issues along the way. we have a facebook page to see the progress. www.facebook.com/2fast2soon.projectgti at some point it has had a starter switch added and a toggle for the gin. But i'm not sure if it is wired correctly as currently it will not start the car. we have checked fuses and starter and that is all ok. and help would be grate. when you turn on the ign you do not get the fuel pump on until you press the starter (i know they can me down to pressure but we have had the fuel pipes off so no pressure and it still doen't work untill you press the starter button) The starter button has 2 cables coming off it. i thourght it would just be one cable?? If anyone knows what colour cable are and what they do that would help me out loads to check if they are right. many thanks jonny

Hi, I have a 1988 Phase 1.5 205, at the moment it will only bump start down a hill, and looking for some advice before I start trying things for the sake of it. I've read about the brown multiplug but cant seem to find one, I've removed the air flow motor and cant see any plug sitting above gearbox? Does my car have one, if so pictures would be great to highlight location I hear a click when i turn the key, does this indicate the starter is ok or should i check that next? Brian.

Hi all, Hope everyone is well - it's been a while since I've posted. I've just took the fat bodied starter and solenoid off my standard 1989 1.6 8v as it has given up and I need a bit of advice about a replacement please. Looking through the past threads, I see that the slimline Valeo is probably the one I need to go for rather than directly replacing the fat body unit I have just removed. However, I can't find a part number anywhere on the forum - can anyone help with the Valeo part number for the slimline unit and maybe a Valeo stockist in the Leicester area please? The Valeo website sent me to a dealer that clearly states 'Bosch only' this morning :-) I've also had a look on Ebay and the following remanufactured units have returned from the same seller but I'm unsure as to whether the slimmer unit is the one I want or not as the units are not oriented the same way in the pictures. Also, although they're not very expensive, I'm just not sure about remanufactured - would I be best to go for a recon'd original Valeo rather than a remanufactured? Fat bodied unit http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PEUGEOT-205-INC-GTI-NEW-STARTER-MOTOR-1-6-1-9-1986-1991-/300556091961?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item45fa8a0239 Slim bodied unit http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PEUGEOT-205-INC-GTI-NEW-STARTER-MOTOR-1-6-1-9-1991-1996-/280383292994?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item4148258642 Any help would be appreciated. Thanks all Ian. ps - I'm sure that it's the starter I need to replace as I've tested all the usual and the starter's definitely knack'd - plus it's about 10 years old and seeing as I've gone to the trouble of getting it out (without removing the radiator or manifold) I want to replace it and the solenoid anyway.

After replacing my starter motor I've managed to get it to fire and start (just), but it just farts a bit and I have to keep revving it to keep it going. If it drops below 1000 rpm it just splutters and cuts out. I've retraced my steps from fitting the new starter and found these wires loose but due to the number wires that are not connected on the gti ive no idea if they are meant to connected at all. http://s1061.photobu...4A23B4518A0.jpg Any ideas if this might be the culprit? Cheers, Gav

Starter motor is gubbed and I need to replace it for another unit. Looking at the Haynes manual it appears that this is the procedure for replacing a starter motor. 1. Disconnect battery 2. Remove air box 3. Drain cooling system 4. Disconnect coolant hoses from the manifold 5. Unbolt the manifold from the cylinder head 6. Disconnect the wiring from the solenoid 7. Unscrew the bolts securing the brush end bracket to the engine 8. Unscrew the mounting bolts at the flywheel end 9. Withdraw starter from the engine Just wondering if there is anything else I need to know before I start as I've never done this before? Also do the coolant hoses definitely have to be removed from the manifold and the system drained or can it be moved to one side to make room? Cheers, Gav

Hi I've got a curious starting problem with my 205. I am very much an amateur so please help! I have tried searching the forum but nothing I have found has yet worked. I drove my 205 into the garage in Jan this year, it worked perfectly then. Now 2 months has gone by and it won't start. It turns over fine, and the battery is fully charged. I replaced the spark plugs with brand new ones and checked and there is definitely a spark. However the spark plugs are dry so there is some fuel problem. I took the input fuel line off the fuel rail and the petrol pump is definitely pumping petrol through. I put a voltmeter to the injectors and they appear to have something flow through on starting. Curiously my petrol gauge doesn't come on like it normally does on the second click... My car is a 1991 205 Gti 1.9. It has the multi-point injection system without the lambda sensor, before cats. Any ideas/links I've missed? Cheers, Rich.