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Can someone let me know where I can get parts and a rebuild kit for a non pas steering rack. It's for a 205 XS F reg I'm doing up. Thanks

Hi all just joined and first post on here. I have a XS with a TU3S K2A engine. I want to rebuild it to its original specs. Can anyone recommend a good guide other than the Hayne's manual that details out the steps of stripping down and rebuilding? Also where to find genuine OE parts to use for the rebuild? Thanks

Hi all. Does anyone have a revuild guide for the xu10j4rs please ?

Alreet, My gearbox has made driving my 1.9 gti miserable. Crunch in second, can't enage first 80% of the time, same for 3rd and now can't get it into reverse at all. (Even when I put it in second then reverse, that's long been my technique) so i'm going to get the gearbox rebuilt. I wanted it doing anyway so might as well do it now considering I no longer have reverse. Any reccomendations to who would do it? pref in lancashire. Also how much to pay? I'm geusssing at £500-800? I've found this place here: http://www.geartorque.co.uk/ So unless anyone has any decent ideas i'll probably take it there,i've asked for a quote. Thanks for reading.

Hi all, Only just joined - eager to learn more about my new project and share my progress along the way. Seems a very active forum, which is good as i've never messed with a pug before! I commute a long way each day for work, so have a Skoda Fabia TDI for a daily. I did have a 197 Clio Cup as a weekend toy. Unfortunately i never had a great opportunity to use the car - it just sat in the garage. It was irritating having such a new car sat at idle, especially if the market dropped on them overnight. Decided to move it on. The Clio. Decided to look for something slightly older - something i could have sat doing no work and wouldn't lose money. Fell upon this gem which has had tonnes of love in the past but sat in storage for around 10 years before i bought it. An enthusiast had it before me but then unfortunately fell ill. It was about 10mm deep with dust when i bought it - got it home, gave it a wash, clay and wax and this was the result. Certainly in a tidy state! The engine sounds sweet as a nut and everything is in a decent state. I thought i would make this thread to show my project. I wish to keep it original and get it to A1 condition and hopefully show it. Things to do - Replace/rebuild seized rear beam Paint, protect and underseal floor Freshen up the interior Rebuild engine, seam weld subframes, tidy things up in engine bay, cure some rust. Basically want to get everything in 'near new' condition, so may take a while. I also have another project though so this is a hobby project in effect, will keep you all updated. Everything seems factory on it bar an open cone filter and a receipt for fitting and mapping (not investigated yet) of a megasquirt ECU... :-/ Thanks, John P.S. i see this forum is quite active with track day go'ers, motorsport followers etc, so here is my main project. A 1600cc Honda Powered MG ZR stage rally car.

Hi everyone, As the title describes I'm currently in the process of rebuilding my first Mi16 engine to drop into my 1.9 Gti. So far I have stripped down the engine to the block and have found a few problems including perished hoses and rather bad pitting caused by corrosion on the head. Am I correct in saying that the head face could be welded and then machined or is it just a case of scrapping it and finding another? After doing a bit of research it looks as though its recommended to renew the following: Gasket set (top & bottom) inc. head gasket Headbolts Thrust washers Main & big end bearings Cam belt water pump Is there anything else that I should look into buying? Any help with this project would be great! Cheers

Hi folks, Thought this info might be of use to some ppl looking at a rear beam rebuild. :-) Not sure if it's in the right forum, so please keep me right. After seeing some comments about the cheaper Febi Bilstein replacement trailing arm shafts I ordered a replacement one from Allan Kay Components in Doncaster - £53 bought online and including delivery all the way to Belfast: https://www.partsfor...ducts_id=165495 Very happy with the service I got from them, quick despatch and friendly emails from Allan who appears to be the main sales contact there. Should be waiting for me today when I get home or possibly tomorrow. Keith

Possibly a little premature with the thread title, as there won't likely be any activity for a few weeks yet. But having done nothing with my 205 for so long that I can't even remember, I've come to the conclusion that it would be wise to get the engine back to good health first. There's a million other things I want to do before putting it back on the road, but my logic is that if I decide to sell it on before I'm finished with it, it's going to be a far less attractive proposition with a dodgy engine! So, quick review (EDIT: maybe not so quick ) of the situation as it stands.... It's a standard 1.9 Mi16 that was rebuilt by DES Developments about a 18 months/2 years before I bought the car, at the same time they did the conversion. I'd need to dig out my file for more specific info, but I bought the car in early 2007 so I guess it was rebuilt about 2005. I've not done much mileage in it in 5 years, so I reckon the engine's had less than 10k on it since the rebuild. However, Half way through my ownership it started to leak coolant through the head bolt above the oil temp sender, at quite an alarming rate. That was temporarily fixed using Radweld, controversially, but it did the job very well. In the summer of 2010 I took it to Miles to get it sorted properly. I'd already been advised by someone else that it could be a corroded head, or even worse, corroded block. The verdict came back from Miles - there was some corrosion to both head and block. The head had apparently been skimmed "quite a bit" in the past (I've no actual measurements) but needed to be done again. So it was stripped down, skimmed, pressure tested, rebuilt with new valve stem seals and (possibly) new lifters (or they may have been reconditioned - I'll need to check my records). The bad news was that although the block cleaned up OK, and there was no signs of any cracks etc, the front face was uneven. To rectify that would mean skimming the block deck, and the liners, which means full strip and rebuild. I discussed this with Miles. Bottom line was, I just couldn't afford to get the bottom end done. I HAD to take a gamble. Miles was fairly confident that with the head skimmed that it would seal OK with a new gasket (which would obviously fitted as a matter of course). I mean, it had to be an improvement on how it was, right? There was of course a clear understanding that this was my choice, and that there was no guarantee it would work, so it was entirely my gamble. Unfortunately it didn't pay off. It seemed OK at first, but under certain conditions, it would leak from the same spot again. I tried using K-Seal as everyone had been raving about it, but it didn't stop the leak. I don't know if K-Seal is just not as effective as Radweld in this instance or if means the leak is now somehow worse than before. Still, in spite of this it still got me through a few long trips up and down the A1 between London and Edinburgh, but after we moved here in Aug 2010, I took it off the road, and it's been unused ever since...............