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Showing results for tags 'motor'.
Found 6 results
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This refurb was inspired humanz recent post about motor magnets which had come apart from the wiper outer body - but I didn't mess with the brushes/springs and the motor stayed mounted on the gearbox mechanism/wiper mechanism. Try this to vastly improve wiper performance. You don’t need to take the motor off the mechanism to get much better results, you don’t need to disassemble the wiper mech or the inner gears - you can do all of this with things still in place but you do have to unmount a few things - cleaning + lubing shafts/tubes optional but might as well while you're in there. Take wipers off, remove scuttle panel Undo large single bolt to release wiper motor + mount/bracket off the mount plate attached to the body/scuttle Loosen mount/bracket + motor off rubber buffers Now you can access the two small bolts holding the motor ‘can’ or body/housing to the motor mount/bracket + gearbox mechanism Slide outer motor ‘can’ or body/housing off inner armature/shaft which stays attached to the gearbox mechanism + motor Clean thoroughly inside body, make sure inner magnets are attached to the inside of the body/can. Lube the bearing that’s recessed into one end of the can/body. Get rid of corrosion and polish the outer face of the armatures - the surfaces which pass close to the magnets inside the body. Give the outer surface of the commutator a good clean - the smaller copper band on the shaft Undo x4 small bolts holding front plate of motor mechanism. On inside of the front plate you’ll see three straight contact springs - bend them away from the plate - they’ll push more firmly to the contact disc. Clean them and the contact disc. Use your preferred lube on the gears. make sure they’re clean and free and Put the body back on the motor with the two small bolts. Put the plate back on the gearbox mechanism. That should be a total of six small bolts. Put the mounting bracket back on to the rubber buffers and put the large single bolt through the mount/bracket and into the mount plate attached to the body/scuttle. Test the wiper shafts are turning OK. You should see a very clear improvement in wiper speed. If you don’t, you might have to go back in and take the motor completely off the gearbox mechanism to check the brushes, springs and wire on the commutator. Can’t advise on that but doing everything else above gave perfect wiper operation after suffering with slow wiper speeds for a while. Also, while you’re in there, you might as well unbolt the mounts/tubes off the mechanism/shafts and clean inside and lube them as well. There are some C-clips and washers each end of the tube if I recall.
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Hi help please. Last weekend the passenger side window went down but won't now go up. I've checked it isn't the switch by using the switch to operate the drivers side window which works fine. I've taken the door card off and found there is very little space to see what's going on or get your hands in. I have found two wires disconnected but I think they were at some stage connected to the passenger side switch that was removed and non-existent when I purchased the car. Besides, if they were the culprit how would the window have gone down in the first place? I'm guessing it's the motor since it's been getting slower and slower to operate the window but I would like to test it before going through all the rigmarole of removing it by attaching a direct feed from a spare battery. But i cannot find the connectors. Can anyone please tell me where they are and how I get to them with the motor in situ? Any pointers would be greatly appreciated. Dave.
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I replaced my front wiper motor with a second hand one about a year ago. This motor has now given up as well and with this rain I have resorted to cycling to work! Can I get a new or refurbished motor anywhere? There is a new left hand drive motor on ebay for a good price at them moment. Is there any way of modifying a LHD motor for a RHD car?
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Problems After Replacing Starter
gavbrum posted a topic in XU Engine & Gearbox Service and Maintenance - ARCHIVE
After replacing my starter motor I've managed to get it to fire and start (just), but it just farts a bit and I have to keep revving it to keep it going. If it drops below 1000 rpm it just splutters and cuts out. I've retraced my steps from fitting the new starter and found these wires loose but due to the number wires that are not connected on the gti ive no idea if they are meant to connected at all. http://s1061.photobu...4A23B4518A0.jpg Any ideas if this might be the culprit? Cheers, Gav -
Starter Motor Replacement
gavbrum posted a topic in XU Engine & Gearbox Service and Maintenance - ARCHIVE
Starter motor is gubbed and I need to replace it for another unit. Looking at the Haynes manual it appears that this is the procedure for replacing a starter motor. 1. Disconnect battery 2. Remove air box 3. Drain cooling system 4. Disconnect coolant hoses from the manifold 5. Unbolt the manifold from the cylinder head 6. Disconnect the wiring from the solenoid 7. Unscrew the bolts securing the brush end bracket to the engine 8. Unscrew the mounting bolts at the flywheel end 9. Withdraw starter from the engine Just wondering if there is anything else I need to know before I start as I've never done this before? Also do the coolant hoses definitely have to be removed from the manifold and the system drained or can it be moved to one side to make room? Cheers, Gav -
No Start- Please Help!
blindreaper242 posted a topic in XU Engine & Gearbox Service and Maintenance - ARCHIVE
Hi I've got a curious starting problem with my 205. I am very much an amateur so please help! I have tried searching the forum but nothing I have found has yet worked. I drove my 205 into the garage in Jan this year, it worked perfectly then. Now 2 months has gone by and it won't start. It turns over fine, and the battery is fully charged. I replaced the spark plugs with brand new ones and checked and there is definitely a spark. However the spark plugs are dry so there is some fuel problem. I took the input fuel line off the fuel rail and the petrol pump is definitely pumping petrol through. I put a voltmeter to the injectors and they appear to have something flow through on starting. Curiously my petrol gauge doesn't come on like it normally does on the second click... My car is a 1991 205 Gti 1.9. It has the multi-point injection system without the lambda sensor, before cats. Any ideas/links I've missed? Cheers, Rich.