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Im a new member and I am trying to find out a bit about AFMs as my car is running rich and has failed the MOT. The garage believe it to be a faulty AFM and have told me they have tested it without success. I have a 1990 205 GTI 1.9 which I believe is XU9J1 engine. The car currently has an AFM with the part number 0280202056, but I think it should have 0280202109. Until now it had always passed the MOT without any problems but it now seems the AFM may have given up or suffered some deterioration. I also had a lot of miss-firing to the extent that it blew open the back box of the exhaust along the crimped seam. The garage removed the injector rail and tested the injectors and found fault with one of them and resolved the problem. This seems to have eliminated the miss-fire. The garage also replaced the Fuel Pressure Regulator at the same time. I cant find a new AFM though so I am wondering if anyone has any advice. The car also idles extremely erratically now and I woneder if this may in part due to the messing with the AFM the garage may have done. Does anyone know where to source new AFMs and if this may likely be the problem. I have sourced a used AFM with the part number 0280202109 but if someone could let me know if this is correct I would be grateful? Also any other advice as to why it may be running rich and idling erratically? Many thanks.

I'm trying to get to the bottom of the high idle I've got on my Mi16 engine (1.9 running normal Motronic ECU). I've checked the throttle switch and that seems to function fine, and the electrics are all good. I'm suspecting the throttle body plates aren't sealing as snuggly as they should when the throttle is shut. Am I right in thinking that at idle the throttle plates should be totally sealed shut and the idle relies on the air passing via the ISCV to get the air supply? So is there an easy way of testing how leaky the plates are?

My 205 Mi16 (1.9 version running Motronic ECU, reangled standard manifold) has started to sound a bit agricultural on idle. I've attached an audio recording of it, with the mic placed behind the exhaust. The engine itself doesn't sound unusually noisy, but the lumpiness is noticeable. It sounds OK when revved as you'll hear in the recording. The roughness can also causes lots of vibrations in the car too, so I tend to give a little gas when stationary to lift it to 1500rpm or so to make it smoother and less annoying. Spark plugs and distributor cap & arm all seem fine, and are relatively fresh. Any ideas? Exhaust_180403_mono.mp3

My 205 has a 1.9 Mi16 running with the Motronic setup. For a while now the idle when cold has gone very high, often around 2.5-3k. When warm it does drop down, but rarely to a nice steady 900rpm, often around 1.2k. To try and give some clues I've just run the engine when cold: - Without touching anything it idles around 3k. - If I disconnect the idle control valve electric supply the idle drops a bit to around 2k. - If I have the idle control value supply reconnected, but clamp shut the hose feeding it, the idle drops right down to below 1k and pretty much stalls (obviously still cold, so wants some more revs). Does this suggest an idle control valve problem, or something else? The throttle switch clicks, but I haven't had the chance to test it's connectivity. The temperature sensor seems to read sensible resistance values.

Hi all, My XRDT is starting to exhibit some funny behaviour on starting. When starting from cold it doesn't idle normally, the revs hunt up and down and when you pull off it 'bunny hops' (not violently but it's noticeable) for the first 100m or so and then settles down. It also puffs out quite a bit of white smoke. After this behaviour it will drive fine. The fuel filter was changed last week and I tightened up the belts which had been squealing. I hadn't noticed this weird starting behaviour before this. It has been gradually using coolant too - I have to top it up every 4 weeks or so. The clutch is probably on it's way out, the bite point is very high. I don't know if this information is relevant but I thought it was worth mentioning. I really know very little about engines so any suggestions to what it could be or ways to narrow down the causes would be greatly appreciated. Ben

Hi everyone! Here he comes, typical lurker not contributing until he's a question to ask.... Since my car has been in for a service with Peugeot (long story as to why it ended up at a main dealer), I've noticed the engine idle is higher than usual, bot hot and cold. So, decided to have a look at the weekend, and noticed the little rubber cap was missing from what I think is a diagnostic/test port on the inlet manifold? Hopefully picture attaches to show it. Anyway, if I cover the hole, the idle speed reduces, and stabilises, to what sounds like its original pre-service speed. Does anyone have one of these little rubber caps knocking around, or should I just try to tape it up and see how I get on? Thanks in advance! Mark F

Hi everyone, Something that has been bugging me for a while is the affect that having electrical devices turned on has on the idle on my 205. I know there will always be some impact but mine seems to suffer quite badly - for example, with the headlights on, heated rear window on and heater fan on half speed it will drop by as much as 4 or 500rpm on the rev counter depending on how warm the engine is and if the radiator fan has come on. I also find that if I press the brake pedal whilst the car is idling then this also drops the revs further and has led to stalling on the approach to junctions in the past. I wouldn't class these as extreme conditions (especially in winter) and I want to do some investigation to see if I have any faults or partial shorts that are causing a higher than necessary current draw. I've done loads of work on the air and fuel sides and the car idles really well now when there's no electrical load but I can't help but think that I'll see my old cutting out on the approach to junctions problems come back when I get out on the road at night or in the rain. At the minute I have the idle speed set slightly high (about 1100rpm on the rev counter when warm) to compensate but even so, when warm, if I turn a few devices on and press the brake pedal repeatedly it very nearly kills the engine. I do find that the affect is less pronounced when the engine is cold and the SAD is open (fast idle) but once the SAD closes (squeezing the pipe has no affect on idle) then the electrical impact on the idle gets worse. So, how do I go about testing all this? My first thought is to place my multimeter inline with the battery -ve terminal and the -ve clamp and measure the increase in current draw as various devices are turned on, make a note and see if there are any trends that appear by way of the circuits that devices are on and combinations of devices but I'm not sure if I should do this with the engine running (would this be dangerous/would I be risking blowing my meter?) as I don't want to flatten the battery by off and oning loads of devices for a day. I then think it might be a case of testing individual circuits by removing fuses and completing circuits with my meter to see if any circuits are drawing any/high current when the engine is off as this might give me clue as to a partial short but this is only what my common sense is telling me - any other ideas would be welcome please. Also, I don't really know what is an acceptable increase in draw for each device. The car doesn't blow fuses so I guess, if there is a/a combination of faults then I'm relying on subtle increases in the meter readings and I don't have any reference points - can anyone help me with this please? The one that really freaks me out the most is the brakes - however I'm not sure how applying the brakes might impact the idle outside of the electrical circuits associated with the brakes (lights etc.) any ideas would be welcome please as I can't assume that the drop in idle speed due to pressing the brake pedal is 100% electrical? I don't really understand how the brake system integrates into other systems that could affect the idle and I need to eliminate any other causes too so again, any help would be appreciated please. I should add that the alternator and battery are in good condition. The battery is a new 60ah battery and the alternator is from a 306 D Turbo - the voltage across the battery terminals is good regardless of the electrical load (14.8v when idling with no load, 14.3v with the headlights and fan heater on). Also, there is one unknown in that the idle/mixture screw hasn't been calibrated as yet - I have followed Damir's advice on here to achieve a ball park setting and this will be set up properly next Monday. The final piece of this puzzle is that although I do get good voltage across the battery terminals, the battery light on the dash does glow faintly if I use a lot of electrical devices when the car's idling. I also find that operating the electric windows seems to dim the dashboard lights. When holding the car at about 2.5k rpm, all of this goes away - the dash lights are unaffected by anything and the rpm stays constant regardless of what i turn on. After reading numerous other posts, I've made sure that the alternator exciter wire is good by watching the lights on the dash when starting and as far as I know all the earths are connected and in good order. I'd be really grateful for any pointers that could save me a bit of time chasing around the car with my meter please. It'll be a shame if I can't get this sorted after all the work I've done stabilising the idle as it does idle really smoothly now (until I turn a few bits on ) Many thanks in advance. Ian.

Hi all, I'll be taking the top off my AFM tonight as I tested it with a multi-meter recently and got some very different results to those described here http://www.205gtidrivers.com/articles/e3-injection.html Most alarmingly I didn't see any change on the meter when moving the door inside. Whilst it's off the car I want to remove the idle mixture screw and give it all a good clean too. Is there a recommended base setting for when I replace this screw please? I appreciate I can't set it properly without a gas analyser, being able to take her out for a drive and that every car is different but it will be done properly when it gets MOT'd. However in the meantime, while I'm just starting her now and again on the drive as I move her in and out of the garage and stuff I'd like to be in the right ball park - so is there a recommended number of turns of the idle mixture screw that I should be looking at before I put the AFM and the rest of the bits that are currently on my kitchen table all back on the car at the weekend please? I should add that the mixture is already way off as I have tried playing with this screw before I fully understood what may be causing the idling issues and the last time it was looked at professionally it was set up to run with a defective SAD, blocked throttle body and knackered ECU temperature sensor so I'm not worried about losing the current setting. Thanks all and look forward to hearing your replies. Ian. Standard 1989 1.6 205gti (XU5JA)

Hi all, I removed my throttle body yesterday with the intention of giving it a good clean before re-fitting next weekend (standard 1989 1.6 XU5JA). My question is about the pipes/hoses that should have been connected as I seem to have a 'spare' hose fitting. When the TB is fitted to the car, there is a breather from the top of the TB that goes to the oil filler, toward the back of the TB is a small nipple that had a thinner (possibly vacuum) pipe and then on the bottom of the TB there is provision for three larger (about 10mm) hoses. When I removed the TB, only two of the three larger nipples on the bottom had a hose connected - these are the two that almost form a 'V' shape and they were both connected to the coolant system. So the question is; what should be connected to the third larger nipple please? It doesn't look as though it has had anything connected in the past but seeing as I've always struggled with the cars idling is there something missing here? Thanks in advance for any help or guidance Ian. ps I should mention that I am in the process of replacing and sorting out other parts that may affect the idle as follows; replaced SAD, replaced rotor and dizzy, new plugs about to go in, ECU temp' sensor on order and there are no air leaks (all done with a lot of help from the past posts in this forum - thank you).