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I’ve got my hand on a spare 205 XS cylinder head and I’m looking at modifying for my 205. The two roads I am looking to go down are eather 1. Keep it fairly standard but get it gas flowed, inlet matched and just generally refurb it maybe also get some sinus valves for it or skinny down the ones I have. 2. Same as above but... Go all out and as a bit of a project over the winter fit the valves out of a TU5. Now i I was wondering if anyone has tried this? Or if it’s a stupid idea, waste of time, not possible etc.... Ive mocked up what the bigger valves look like in the picture below. My concerns are valve to cylinder bore clearance and “shrouding” around the inlet. what do you guys think? Cheers

I've taken the cylinder head cover off my 205 XS to check the valve clearances. I had a lot of difficulty doing this as theres corrosion around the cover and the studs. I had to revert to push a very thin scraper into the rubber seal where the cover mates with the head and then pull up which eventually helped to get the cover off. I have oil passing by the cylinder head and the rubber seal of the cover already so plan to replace this. I wiped down the head surface and looks like there's a lot of scratches and marks there. I don't think that I caused this when I pushed the scraper in as I took a lot of care. There are a few that are quite deep. See attached photos of the scratches. What do I need to do to deal with this? Do I need to get the head skimmed? Or as it's on the cover end I don't need to worry about it? Any advice or opinions would be appreciated. Thanks

Hi, I'm a new member with a problem. Wonder if anyone can help? We have a 1987 205GR with 1.4 TU3 engine. 74,000 miles. ex Peugeot management car (mine) and owned from new. It's now only getting light use but has strong sentimental attachment for the family and is too good to scrap. Engine has been running hottish for some while i.e. cooling fans cut-in sooner than seemed right. Also had a tendency to sometimes run-on after switching-off. Otherwise it ran well. I flushed the cooling system, replaced the thermostat, radiator, temp sensor and water pump. Didn't make much difference, so soldiered on for a couple of years. Now the temp warning light is coming-on and the cooling system is becoming excessively pressurised; blowing lots of coolant from the expansion bottle which quickly drains the system. Car is unusable for more than 10 mins. It felt like a head gasket issue so......... I have carefully removed the head, carefully cleaned all surfaces of the head and block, checked head and block for flatness with edge of a steel rule, reseated the valves, fitted a new head gasket, torqued head bolts to setting in Haynes manual, reassembled everything and bled the cooling system to let any air out. Engine now starts and runs but the water problem is still occurring. After running for 2 minutes, water is being blown out of the expansion bottle. I re-used the original head bolts and did not have the head skimmed. It looked OK QUESTIONS - Should I have lightly dressed the upper face of the new gasket with Hylomar or a similar gasket sealer? Is it possible the head bolts have 'streched' over the years and are now not keeping sufficient pressure on the head? Are TU3 Aluminium heads particularly prone to leaking, cracking or internal failure? (I looked for signs of a hairline but all seemed OK) What else other than a head gasket might be causing the problem? Thought I'd seek advice before taking it all apart again. Suggestions would be welcome. (does anyone have a 'known-to-be-good' TU3 head available to buy?) Cheers

Hi All, Was just wondering if anyone knew what the maximum 'safe' amount would be to take off the head? Thanks