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eec911c8-a388-4eca-8369-dbc93ce3bd25.MP4 Hi all, I’ve been having more fun with race clutches, specifically finding a way to get an acceptable pedal feel and travel. I have a single plate AP Racing 7.25 lug clutch with cerametallic clutch plate on the race car, and it has a strong diaphragm spring with a max release bearing throw of 5.5mm. This translates to a very heavy clutch pedal with low travel when using a standard clutch cable and pedal. And even after modifying the cable pull point on the pedal to increase leverage (giving longer pedal travel and an acceptable clutch pedal pressure) there is still far more tension in the clutch cable than it’s been designed for. I have found that the rubber bushes in the cable compress, and the clutch pedal travel is very inconsistent -> as the clutch / engine gets hot the pedal drops slightly and then the cable requires more adjustment to fully disengage the clutch. Basically I’ve never been 100% happy with it, often coming in off a track day or race and struggling to select 1st gear due to it needing adjustment. So I started looking at ways to change to a hydraulic clutch system - as hydraulic clutches with a reservoir automatically adjust to account for wear or any minor change to the clutch setup height as things get hot. You can also change the master cylinder size to alter the overall ratio of pedal movement / effort to release bearing movement. I have figured out a way to use a wilwood pull type slave cylinder directly mounted on the standard clutch arm, and a master cylinder connected to the standard clutch pedal with no major modifications required - in fact you could unbolt the hydraulic setup and change back to a cable setup without changing anything else. It uses one of these slave cylinders: https://www.rallydesign.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=4080 The slave cylinder mounts as so using standard clutch plastic bushes: For some reason Wilwood recommend you mount the slave cylinder so that the body moves and the piston stays still, but it has to be mounted the other way round on the BE box, I can’t see a good reason why this would be a problem though. Clutch arm needs bending up slightly to accommodate the cylinder, and the gearbox housing needs a little material removing to make room for the slave cylinder body (nothing significant, just a tickle with the power file!). The master cylinder is an AP racing CP6465 https://apracing.com/race-car/master-cylinders/pull-type-trunnion-mounted/cp6465 bloody expensive new (£400 ish), but available from the US 2nd hand for £60 posted (loads of ex nascar ones available) Master cylinder is mounted directly below the pedal box on a simple bracket made up from some 25mm box section, combined with a 20mm alloy stand-off (cut at the correct angle for where it meets the bulk head), and a long m8 12.9 cap head to anchor the master cylinder, plus a cheap ebay rubber boot which goes over the master cylinder and creates a decent seal to the pedal box. Where it bolts through: Master cylinder bolted on: It connects to the standard pedal clutch cable point via an M8 Clevis fork (readily available on eBay for not much money). Note early non-hook type clutch pedal required. A custom Hel Performance hose runs where the standard clutch cable does (£35), and it works a treat: WhatsApp Video 2024-09-24 at 23.10.11_b89bbd5b.mp4 Video above shows slave cylinder movement with a 21.2mm diameter master cylinder - this would be about right for a standard clutch, but too much travel for the AP racing clutch. I ran it on a track day last week with an 18.8mm master cylinder, and it was really good. Far nicer pedal feel, and most importantly consistent over the whole day. I’m moving to a 17.3mm master cylinder next (another one just arrived from the US!) as clutch pedal travel was still slightly too short for my liking. This should give a 10% lighter pedal with slightly increased travel over the 18.8mm one. The external slave cylinder has the advantage of being easily serviceable if something does go wrong with it, and it can simply be replaced with a clutch cable for a quick fix on the side of a race track should the worse happen! Video at the top of the post (sorry can't move the damn thing) shows it working with the 18.8mm master cylinder (clicking noise is just the rubber boot - sorted with some grease on the piston) Hope this is of some use - I’d recommend this for anyone considering fitting a clutch with a strong spring which would otherwise put the cable under much more tension.

Hello, i am in desperate need of the chapters 6 thru 8 of the haynes manual for my 205 since i need to change the speedo cable, clutch cable and gear linkeages, all the pdfs i've found dont have them, and where i live it is impossible for me to be able to buy the original printed manual I have uploaded the manual i have without the needed chapters in case anyone needs it thank you very much in advance peugeot manual haynes 205.pdf

Couldn't have broken down in a nicer spot in the Forest of Dean! Has anyone else managed to bend their clutch pedal like this? Didn't think my thighs were that strong!

It is with regret that I post a thread about my gearbox and the judder/vibration I suffer at low revs. I have the wrong clutch fork bushes in there (mismatched yellow/white), as per this photo, which I knew about when I reassembled the box: clicky mcclickfest In my defence, the ones I removed were the same colour, and the kit I got from Neat Car Parts including the fork and bushes also came with them mismatched. I was stubborn and thought it might be alright. I'm going to take the box off tomorrow or Saturday to investigate my vibration I can feel when setting off in 1st, it's quite horrible actually but completely clears after about 1500rpm, it's just the low/initial idle RPM. I've got the new fork bushes (matched white ones I think) to throw in and a new clutch release bearing incase mine is shot, but the car has only done about 3 miles on the brand new clutch/bearing etc. It's a J plate originally, now running the 1.6 BE3 box with the GTi6 engine and right clutch setup (the 801042 Valeo one) Only other thing being I have a BBM harder rubber solid lower mount which I accept will vibrate more but I think this is clutch related. Anyone got anything else to add that may cause this? Closest thread similar to this was one that Anthony posted about yonks ago and ended up swapping the clutch. Not sure if something was wrong on his setup though or damaged. EDIT> I also just remembered when I took the box off, that it got knocked off the pallet it was on in my garage. A tiny bit of the metal casing broke off around the clutch bush, just about able to see it here - clicky - so not sure if that could also cause an issue? We didn't feel it was enough to make the bush move when the arm was used so left it. Cheers

Over the past couple of weeks I'm beginning to struggle to engage gears, both getting in and out of gear. It seems worse when the car has warmed up. The movement of the gearstick feels fine, so it's just that last push to engage it. I keep adjusting the clutch cable to raise the biting point which helps a bit, but I'll soon run out of thread. I'm not getting any clutch slippage, or funny noises. Could it be the release bearing on the way out or something else? The car is a 205 1.9 GTi with an Mi16 engine, clutch & flywheel with a 1.9 BE1 gearbox.

i have just put down a deposit on a 205 wit a gti6 engine in witch used to be in an old car of mine and the gti6 engine is f****d and i want to put the std 1.9 8v engine back in it my question is it has 1.6 gti box in and i presume a mi16 clutch i no the clutch to b a good quality luck item and very healthy as miles original done the conversion on the old car would the mi16 clutch bolt up to the stander ed 1.9 8v flywheel i would put a new clutch in but am on a very tight budget and just need it on the road help much appreciated cheers olly

As the title suggests as anyone any experience of these, in regards feel for everyday driving and lack of slip my car is a 2.0 turbo running 180 bhp and 225 torque. Thanks in advance

Hiya Guys Clutch has gone on my 205 Mi, its got a 1.6 be3 box - so i was thinking whilst the box is off I may as well add another upgrade to it So which is best lightened fly wheel and upgraded clutch to get and where is best to get them from ? Not really to arsed about the cost as I've got more money than sense - ha ha Any help would be much appreciated

Hi all, Just finishing up my Mi conversion, and having a few issues with the clutch. I have searched round on this subject but not really found anything. First of all I should mention that along with installing the Mi16 engine, I have also fitted a BE1 Mi16 gearbox. My car is a phase 1 1986 (D) 1.6 GTi, and I have swapped out the clutch pedal and cable for a BE3 type. When we first started the car up the clutch would not dis-engage and the gears would just crunch if you tried to select one. So we adjusted the cable and then the clutch wouldn’t engage and you could select all the gears but had no biting point even when the pedal was fully released! After a bit of messing about we finally managed to find a sweet spot on the cable adjustment that would allow the clutch to engage when in gear and dis-engage to select a gear. Unfortunately this has left the biting point right at the top of the pedal and left the pedal feeling rather weak like it is struggling to spring back up as you lift your foot. The mechanic that has been helping me with the conversion says ‘this is the problem with conversions, things don’t work as well as they should, and that the best its gonna get.’ I dis-agree and think something has been fitted incorrectly along the way!! Has anybody else experienced similar issues, or have any idea what could be wrong with my set up? Thanks again Andy

Could someone please help me out with picking out a clutch for my 1360cc rallye (205 XS engine, MA box). I'm using the car for Motorsport (Targa/Endurance Rally) so was thinking a paddle clutch, don't really want to spend any more than £300ish? Is there any vendors to avoid or are they all practically the same? cheers ~matt