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2.0 8v turbo block, 1.9 Mi16 cylinder head. Is there anyone who has done this before and could tell me what would be the right way of doing this? I managed to find the long ARP stud above the water pump so the cylinder head is held in place correctly. The timing belt kit I used is for a 306 S16, it has 1 tensioner and 1 idler pulley (the red paint on the bolt helped me find out where to drill a hole in the 1.9 Mi16 timing cover, it didn't fit otherwise). The tensioner pulley is set to the max so the belt can not get more tension, I hope this is enough and that it won't fail (hope you can see how much tension the belt has in the pictures as I 'checked' it using my finger, I don't have any tools to measure this) . Valves do not hit pistons, timing may be off a little as I have done this using only my eyes and not the correct timing pins or even a drill bit (I will buy a Peugeot timing set soon to check this again). Crankshaft pulley, gear wheel and standard MLS head gasket for RFS engine have been used. Unable to find the timing cover I was looking for (0320E5) under the engine mount so I will try to modify a 1.8 cover as seen in the picture. There is a bolt behind my finger on the picture that holds a cover in place but I am worried that it might damage the timing belt, the clearance is only 2 or 3 mm's. I am also having trouble with the oil breather hoses (2.0 8v turbo breather hoses) as I can't fit the oil filler anywhere when the Mi16 inlet manifold is fitted. Does anyone know if I have used the correct belt kit, if I should remove the bolt that is close to the timing belt and what I should do with the oil breather/filler hoses? Would appreciate the help as I am stuck (again)

Thought I would add a few of the most common ECU pinouts and wiring diagrams, as I've managed to get a PDF writer working as well as a copy of Autodata. Unfortunately due to the file limits it's one per post. So lets start with the 306 S16, Bosch Motronic MP3.2. 306 XU10J4 wiring diagram.pdf

I thought that I would start a topic to show some of the work that has been done to install a 405 T16 engine in my 205. The car is still a work in progress - a few pics of the car before the work started are below (if I've inserted them right). At the time it was a 205 1.9 GTi with a turbo technics upgrade that had been installed since the 80s. When the head gasket went I had decided to rebuild the engine and install emerald/omex until I spotted a XU10J4TE for sale.

Hello 205 drivers I've joined to get some help with my Citroen Xantia Activa which I acquired over a year ago as a non-runner. I've repaired some hydraulics and the fuel pump to get it running initially and then due to poor condition/history I replaced cambelt, auxillary belt, fuel filter, ht leads, I got it through the first MoT after 5 years off the road. So although I'm a member of French Car Forum and have had some help over there it seems that you 205 drivers running this engine are more plentiful so I reckon my chances of getting some extra help/advice on sorting it better in your hands. Car starts fine, seems to warm up fairly quickly and cooling fans cut in and out fine. There just isn't much power my Xantia HDi is faster. It will accelerate but just not very fast, top speed is 115mph but needs winding up to that, 0-60 mph is around 16 seconds !!! When I changed the timing belt I had trouble with the timing alignment (pulley isn't solid like some Peugeots) so it's possible the timing marks on the pulley are wrong. It has been to 2 garages since it's been back on the road but neither has discovered the problem, no codes quoted just a list of likely problems including: fuel pressure fluctuating/injectors/Lambda sensor/catalytic converter or ECU (ECU has since been sent away and tested no faults found). I've read a few threads that indicate the crank timing can be checked from the flywheel end from a hole near the starter motor but having read the Haynes manual that seems to only be the diesel engine timing procedure? If anyone can loan me a XU solid cast pulley that I can use, just to fit temporarily to confirm my timing is correct that would be great. Once I've confirmed the timing is correct I can then see what's else could be causing the power loss..... If it's not the timing my next thoughts are the turbo boost solenoid ? The local turbo guy has tested the actuator line as OK but didn't want to go any further (turbo turns freely on visual inspection and looks in OK condition). I'm in Darlington, Co Durham if anyone is local? Please help me find my missing BHP if I can get near the standard 150 I think I'll be happy

As The topic title T25g turbo does it need a restrictor on the oil feed. ​

I've been trying to source the correct gasket for my 2.0 8v Turbo throttle body which looks like this: On Servicebox I can't find the correct part. This is all I can find: Number 3 which is a rubber ring (incorrect) but shows the correct 3 bolt flange. Part number 0365 32. or Number 21 which is a gasket, but shows the wrong 2 bolt flange. Part number 1635 58.

HI Everyone ive just motd my 1991 peugeot 205 dturbo 5 door in red!,after a few weeks the head gasket went so ive decided its time for an engine swap it has a 1769cc turbo diesel engine ,no intercooler! My plan is to pick up a secondhand peugeot 306 d turbo engine with the enginemounted intercooler? i do a fair bit withs cars so im not shy for a big job haha what i was wondering is does everything line up? which gearbox is best? driveshafts?? do i need to fabricate a downpipe exhaust? what other things do i need to change? i hear the power steering from 205 wont fit with 306 diffrent set up?? with he intercooler ,will it fit under my bonnet?is it worth putting a vent in the bonnet? any of your help would be fantastic!,any guides out there?,anyone done it ?? Thanks ,Stuart

Ok where to begin.... I'm very lucky to own a classic 205, to which I've fitted mi16 2.1 cams 45's and a megajolt. To me its well rapid, but alas 12 to the gallon and emission problems every mot. At Easter this year we decided to do a "top gear" 500 pound challenge to the nurburgring, we bought a 185 celica and they bought a rover 200 brm. Anyway it was fantastic fun so much that we're returning next Easter ...phew This time i'm hoping to take the 205 fitted with a xm turbo. the aim of my project is for reliability and stealth. The project is well under way with only the gear linkage causing major issues.

As the title suggests as anyone any experience of these, in regards feel for everyday driving and lack of slip my car is a 2.0 turbo running 180 bhp and 225 torque. Thanks in advance

Hi all, I've only posted a few times to ask questions, so thought I'd show what I've been doing to my car. This is copied from several posts on another forum, so it's kinda long. The car is a 205 1.8TD. I call it the "Dream Machine", quite a few other people have laughed at me. It does all I want, and is even practical for cycling trips (just) First off. The bonnet hinge is missing a bolt, and it was annoying me. Fixed. Then I started doing some experiments with the existing water temperature sender, and a nice gauge I got really cheap off Ebay. They didn't go well.... So I gave up and ordered a real VDO sender. It works now, but there's some more to do before I fit it all. So I did some other stuff.. The rear wiper didn't work, so I removed it and filled the hole. This removes a potential MOT failure point, and also saves weight. The rear washer didn't work either, so I removed that as well, for the same reasons. I removed the stereo, as I'm putting gauges where it currently sits. I also removed the rear speakers ("240W Music Power" Bangin!). I'll be replacing it all with a suitably lightweight system. It left some odd holes in my parcel shelf, but it does save weight. I also picked up a very cheap Racetech dual oil temperature/pressure gauge. The capillary tube for the temperature gauge was snapped off at the case, so I took it apart to see if there's anything I can do. Looks awesomely clockwork inside... Not really much I can do. However, after carefully cutting off part of the case, I revealed the remaining stub of copper capillary tube. I've come this far, I think I'll be attempting a brave repair. But another time. That'll do for today. Total weight saved - 6.5KG. The plastic grip of both keys had broken. I have had to carry the little stub of a key in my wallet for a few months, which has become mildly irritating. Time to sort this out. Cut this bit of box off an old trolly I got an angle grinder for my birthday over a year ago, and haven't yet tried it out. I took some brave pills, donned the approriate PPE, and set to work. Stripped the remaining plastic off the key. Heated up the cut piece Got a bit of wood wedged in the remaining box I used as a makeshift former to hammer the hot metal. Decided to burn it out... Looks...promising? Back to tools of a size I'm more used to.... Enlarge the countersunk holes... Done, and looking beasty. Ground off the bolts at the back. After banging on about them for months, I finally fitted my gauges today. What an epic it's been.... After finally getting the right combo of pipes and adapters, I set about making a dash panel. Take 1: Old baking tray. This didn't go so well, so I turned my attention to a piece of old floorboard. Genius, or madness? Time will tell. After two attempts, I was forced to concede it was madness. Take 4 was made of oak, kindly donated to the cause by my housemate's dad. Here it is, after a lot of rasping and sanding, compared to takes 1, 2, and 3: I gave it a coat of linseed oil, and started fitting the electrics. They work! The time and effort gap between these two photos is enormous, but here they are, all fitted: Will need to get out on a test drive and see how they work, but one problem is already apparent: the water temperature gauge only works when the headlights are turned on. Ah well. I'll fix it another time..... I'm going to give a little preview of what I've got planned for the car stereo. I said it would be light, so I decided to make my own with a bare minimum of features. I've started the design, but it's turning out to be quite a lot of work.... I've finished the front panel Test fitted. In fact, when it's done (if all goes to plan), this is all you will see of the stereo. Still got quite a lot to do with the electronic design and layout....

I'll post up my project thread here, even though it's not a 205. I'm still working on it, so any remarks/comments/advice is greatly appreciated. First I started collecting parts Mocal oil cooler JP4 camcovers Megane 225 injectors (390cc) Uprated gear links Intercooler, oil catchcan, slim fan and 200CP sportcat Vems 3.6 standalone with wideband lambda and on board MAP sensor Re-looming the bugger And redesigned the woofer case to hold the 79Ah battery (will post more fotos when it is upholstered) boost control solenoid MSD ignition thanks to trackdayparts.nl Got a crappy 16v lump for the rebuild. And while I was at it, got me a hoist and an engine stand. All the nuts & bolts are being replaced by stainless ones. New stainless 2.5" mufflers and flex part New valves, valve seats, seals, skimmed and vacuumtested Freshly honed block Since the block and head were ultrasonicly cleaned they could use a fresh coat of paint I've sanblasted some bits in the workshop at our service department. The mechanics there were curious as always to see a pencil pusher getting his hands dirty :hug:

Hi, i think the coil pack on my xu10 j2te engine has gone, it wont start (again) it has power to the plug and is actaully a brand new plug i put on about a month ago, and yes ive had it started and running fine since, lol it has power at the coil but has no spark so it leads me to think its the coil pack that has gone, so can anyone confirm that this is the coilpack that i need to replace it with. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/300517690208?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

So.. i got myself an absoloute bargain; and is now a donor for the 'new' plan. Specs; 1.8 NAD 205K - yes, 205,000 miles! 1 - yes 1 previous owner from new! cambelt and aux belt done 5k ago serviced 5k ago theres a few problems with it - leaky rad, dodgy rear lights, busted rear beam but nonetheless engine is absoloutely SOUND. Had a good drive and look around and for £300 i had to snap it up... The previous owner have had this from the factory and got the bumper and sunroof as optional extras and could explain EVERYTHING which has been done on this. Really happy with it; collecting on tuesday once the new V5 has come through (the owners wanted to keep memories and put the original H plate on their fiat panda) My plan was to just get a REALLY old NAD to trash around, but after seeing the condition, quality and sound of the engine, i just couldn't trash it. Oh, and it's bosch'd - Coaling time! Probably going to turbo this as Max has all the bits ready to go! For anyone that knows strictly derv on here, a similar build will be going into this; a nice XUD9 lump, big blower, FMIC and some nice fuel pump mods.. C&C welcome

Well as the turbo had started smoking decided to get it rebuilt so took a spare one to turboforce in preston who turned round and said that it needed a new shaft, soooo £250 plus £90 for a new shaft not to bad and then a stroke of luck the guy said 1 min and promptly returned with an full reconditioned TB25 core which he let me have for the sum of £200. The deal got even better when he took my compressor housing and exhaust housing and reconned them for free. Also picked up a T3 actuator from forge for £120 all in with 2 free springs so for £320 not to bad.