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Car: 205 Rallye 1.9 from 1993 Engine: 102 hp 1.9 with Bosch LU-Jectronic, O2 sensor and catalyst. So basically it should be like a pre-cat 1.9 with L-Jetronic, except for the O2 sensor and catalyst. It's quite different from the Motronic on later 122 hp 1.9 GTIs with a catalyst. Symptoms: The car had been sitting for two weeks, but the battery had been topped up with a CTEK charger which indicated that the battery was fully charged. It started and ran fine before being parked. * Engine cranks when the starter is activated by the ignition key, but it doesn't even cough - so no combustion taking place. Checked: * Spark is ok, checked visually by removing a plug and looking at the spark. Ignition coil, distributor and rotor replaced less than 3000 miles ago. * Fuel pump running, tried loosening the hose at the top of the fuel filter. Fuel came spraying out. * Tachiometric relay next to the ECU replaced with a new one from Hella. Old one didn't click, new one does. Makes no difference. * Fuel injectors checked by dismounting the fuel rail and looking for signs of them squirting fuel. And here comes the part I don't get: The injectors are not firing, when the engine is cranked by the starter no fuel is squirted from the injectors like it normally would. Instead, when the ignition key is turned counter-clockwise and the starter is switched off the four injectors all give one simultaneous squirt of fuel. Has any one on here experienced a similar problem, and solved it, or have any ideas as to what causes this?

Dear All, I've had the starter motor clicking problem getting gradually worse for quite a while now. As with the other threads describing this, the key would turn, you'd hear a click from under the bonnet somewhere, and nothing would happen. Then, often if you keep turning the key over and over, eventually the starter would kick into life and everything would be good. Over the last couple of weeks this has gotten so bad that unless the battery was literally full (or on the charger), then no starting at all! So, I decided to do a little rewiring work in the engine bay, and also add the relay booster circuit which is described in several of the other threads. I took the opportunity to do a few things at once, including new starter motor, new alternator, completely replace everything after the brown multiplug (previously replaced with superseals), and add the relay. The relay circuit uses the starter feed from ignition, to energize a relay, before going to earth. The switched circuit of the relay goes from the large permanent live on the starter motor, through the relay and back to the solenoid start terminal which the starter feed would originally have been connected to, as shown in the below picture. Is this correct? Testing this on the bench, it seemed to work perfectly. Starter would come on, and stop immediately on removal of the signal feed to the relay. I then fitted it to the vehicle, and reassembled everything. When I came to start up for the first time, she fired immediately. Almost like she was on a hair trigger! Which I was delighted with, up until I noticed the engine noise was very different. I immediately switched off, and after the engine had stopped I could hear the starter winding down. i.e. the starter was remaining engaged (and powered) even though the ignition was not in the starting position. I tried starting several times, always with the same effect. So I've neatly gone from no starter at all, to a starter which won't turn off! Great. Does anyone have any ideas of what I've done wrong here? I've done quite a bit of work around the front end, so my relay mod might not be the only possible cause. I did notice that the starter is very twitchy on the key, and kicks in immediately if you so much as tickle the key past the ignition on position. Therefore, I was wondering if the ignition barrel might be making partial contact in ignition on, which isn't enough to cause a problem without the relay, but now is enough to be relevant? If that were the case you'd expect it to be permanently on whenever you've moved the key into the on position (but not as far as start). Any suggestions would be gratefully received! Many thanks, Mike

Does anyone have a diagram or pinout or explanation of which wires should go to which pins of the fuel pump relay? I'm sure someone has this info recorded somewhere. I don't have an original loom handy so I can find it for myself, and the Haynes workshop manual hasn't helped yet.

Having never performed a coolant changed I enlisted a more experienced mate to help carry out the job last weekend while I helped and took notes . While blethering he decided, rather prematurely, to twist off the rad cap on the expansion tank connected to the bulkhead. The car had not been parked long and inevitably a scalding hot little eruption of coolant gushed out. It actually wasn't that bad and didn't spray everywhere, however I was still rather pissed off due to the risk of electrical wiring/components getting drenched in the immediate area. Predictably he reassured me it would be fine etc as a "little" coolant does no harm. So we carried on replacing the coolant and the car seemed fine though I did notice the second fan coming in a little later than it should when I dropped him off. I then drove the 20 mile journey back home via the motorway. But 17 miles into the journey on the motorway the car silently shut down with no judder and no splutter but with dash lights on ala pre-ignition. The brake pedal went solid so I had no choice but to ease the handbrake up to slow the car down and rolled down a convenient slip road to a stop. Thank fook I was only pottering and it wasn't on a roundabout or worse! I got out and checked the battery terminals (they were fine) belts and so on. Everything was fine. The car started up immediately so I crawled back via streets where it shut down 2 more times before reaching home. When I got back I armed the car but the alarm was really acting up by blaring the instant I armed it. I also noticed the fuel pump was no longer priming. I started the car one more time and it promptly shut down around 30 seconds later and the alarm stopped responding to commands completely. I think the immobiliser activated as it wouldn't start at all by this point. I got out with the bonnet still up and key in pre-ignition position and noticed erratic ticking relay type sounds and tracked it to this relay hiding in a box: I then heard another strange ticking sound between the header tank and ECU cover and found this below: It had electrical tape applied horizontally across the body and was simply folded over on top, like a badly fitted turban . When I pulled back the sliding red clips and peeled off the flimsily applied tape I realised why it had been applied: I removed the above item (battery was disconnected), cleaned it out with electrical contact cleaner (when I say clean I really mean bathed ), repeated a couple of times till it was clean and dried it. I then carefully applied multiple rows of crisscrossed electrical tape over the crack, basically all over the damn thing as a temporary measure. While I was at it I actually went a little mental and cleaned up as many terminals, contact points and earths in sight. Upon reconnecting the battery the alarm went back to its normal self, the pump primed as it should and boom it started with no fuss! I drove the car a to the petrol station, filled up and returned back and all seems well again. Most importantly the alarm is functioning again so I can leave it parked in confidence until I can replace the above component. So, what function do the above bits perform and what exactly happened? And where can I purchase a replacement?

At work I have a 2007 Citroen Relay3 LWB 35 2.2 HDI (120 bhp puma engine, the f***ing ford one!) Lovely van to drive nicely matched engine and box (6 speed in this one) Very comfy and pretty good on fuel for its size. It has a 2 year old battery which takes charge fine, alternator pushing out 14.4 volts consistently, but if left for a few days especially in the winter the battery will be deaddy dead, wont even flash then indicators on the plip, though dash lights will come on. Are there any known issues that'll cause this? All instruments lights etc are functioning correctly, so not sure where to start.