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Hi Gents, i need a hand - my 205 has been playing up again. The other week coming off the motorway i dropped from 5th to 4th. at this point i lost all power. it sounded awful, like it had dropped a valve (I would have expected that as it is bit of a tapper) As i stopped at the traffic lights the car was on 2 cylinders and was missing and backfiring horrendously. The car wouldnt run at all unless i applied full throttle for at least 15 seconds - it would slowly chug its way to about 3k, at which point it would clear up a bit and run alright, but only if you went right back to minimal throttle - any load at all and it would instantly return to missing and 2 cyl. I limped the car to my garage, it had previously shown similar symptoms to these, that time it fixed itself after an hour break and me wiggling a few sensor wires! This time that didnt work. The sensor wiring all looked ok and belled through to the ecu plug ok. still thinking it could be sensor related, I swapped a few parts: Throttle body (including throttle position sensor) no change Map sensor (swapped for a new one and rewired) no change New plugs swapped out the coils (and swapped them around) all still gettting a spark, no change upon taking the plugs out i noticed that cyl 3 and 4 were white as you like, super lean, (cylinder 1 was very oily think the stem seal has had a bad time) The car consumes a little water, i have been chasing small leaks for a while but as i havent been able to find any at this point i was certain i was looking at headgasket failure. Got my mate to bring over a compression tester, of course as he arrived the car started near enough on the button and performed faultlessly We then performed a compression test, to my surprise 13.5 bar on all cylinders. After he'd left, took it down the road for a test run and ran fine for about 5 minutes, it then tried it on again, same symptoms as before I then unplugged injectors 3 then 4, no change to the running issue. unlikely that both have failed, let alone simultaneously I have a spare set of injectors so i connected one in place of the injectors on 3 and 4 and ran it dry in my hand, i dont know how much these injectors are affected by running without fuel pressure behind them, but i wasnt impressed by the clicking i could feel, barely audible..a pretty tiny tick...considering they are usually the loudest thing in the bay when you open the bonnet. ohms reading across all injectors 16.3ohm. The car will now just about chug onto 2 cylinders, any throttle at all kills it, unless, only sometimes if you ram full throttle on iit chuggs on for a bit So whats your money on? Does the double relay have any bearing on injector fire or isit new ecu time for me? Thanks for reading, any ideas appreciated, Cheers, Matt Edit: as soon as i can get my fuel pressure tester from the garage ill do that, but im pretty convinced its electrical

I have just removed the fuel rail and injectors and one of the caps has come off. I have removed this rail 3 times now with no problems before. I can see the cap but I am not confident of pulling it back through the hole. Can I undo the inlet manifold top bolts without undoing anything else to get enough play to reach in and get it or do I have to take it all apart? If so what is the procedure as mines a daily !!!

hi i have very nearly finished returning my 1988 gti back to 1.9 8v from gti 6 but i seem to have a problem with the injectors both wires seem to show 12v and as i understand it one should b 12v and the other should b negative switched by the ecu to make it pulse, do the injectors get any other signals other then the ecu as it seems like something is missing ?? when i tested the injectors with a (bulb) in the end off the plug it didn't flash at all until l stop'd cranking and then at the very end it flashed once it all seems very odd dose any one no what each wire from the ecu plug dose as it would b helpful as i could then check wiring i need them identified by colors and ecu pinouts as i have no number's on my wires due to them being cut by previous bloke bodging in the gti6 engine any help much appreciated thanks olly

Hi, I have recently rebuilt my 1.9 gti engine in my rally car, i have had it running since and it ran fine (sat for 50 minutes at the MOT station), but now after it failing to start on and off it wont start at all. When i could get it running, when it warmed up it wouldn't start. Here is what i have done found out upto now: AFM was know to be faulty so replaced with a working one. Jetronic injection system, so NO crank sensor etc, its an XU9JA as far as i can tell. Tested the throttle position sensor and replaced as was faulty. Replaced the wrong (had a 1.6 one in) ECU with a good one for a 1.9. Have checked for spark and there is definitely one. Have also got new plugs and coil. Have tested the ecu temperature sensor which reads correctly for it been cold (was 14c). Fuel pump works, its on a separate switch, plenty of fuel coming through. So i took the injectors out and turned it over, no fuel coming from the injectors (it even started briefly with the excess fuel that came out of one of the injectors that popped off). Tested the voltage coming from the injector plugs while turning over the engine and it registers 0.02v, which i believe it should have 12v. So, as far as i can see i have no voltage to the injectors so they wont work. Suspect problems: tachymetric relay: Does this supply voltage to the injectors as well as control the fuel pump (if not on a switch), when i press the ignition (has a push start) i can feel the relay activate and when i stop cranking it resets itself - seems ok but unsure. Injection Supply Relay - Do they have one of these, haynes manual has it in the wiring diagram but i cant find it on the car, would be a logical culprit though. Bad wiring - could be this as it has a cut down loom on it, problem im having is working out what to test from the injectors to where ever to find out if it is a faulty wire. Wire from dizzy to ecu - Not sure how to trace if this works but it would also make sense if the ecu wasnt getting this signal. Have had it suggested it could be the injector plugs shorting but can find any bad wires etc. I think i have covered everything there, any help would be much appreciated as im running out of options, its probably something simple. Cheers Kev

Hi there....as per title. I have had a search on the forum and can't really find a definitive way of doing this (obviously i am an amateur). Do I... 1) Need to depressurise system in anyway? 2) Unscrew them or pull them out? 3) What scary things are likely to go wrong i.e. losing seals etc and how do i stop this ? I have the yellow injectors on a 1.9 205 1990. Cheers in advance.

First ever post so excuse any mistakes... Right, so I have been removing a Thatcham (Sigma M800 T2) immobiliser, and got to the point that engine cranks and sparks, but injectors don't fire. Fuel pump IS running. Couple of unknown wires left though, and some that should be there, but are not.... Picture time!! (Hope I uploaded them right) First picture: fuel pump relay, please note the thin black wire from pin 30, this is a Thatcham wire and so needs to be removed...However, I have found that this should usually go over to the fuel pump fuse to power the pump, but as I said, the pump is already getting power from another yellow/cream wire, picture to follow. Second picture: the immobiliser control box, was simply screwed under the steering column in a silver box. Third picture: immobiliser wires wrapped in black electrician tape (by Thatcham) Fourth picture: immobiliser wires wrapped in black electrician tape (by Thatcham) Fifth picture: the mutilation!! Sixth picture: THIS IS THE PICTURE I NEED HELP WITH PLEASE !!! Once I disconnect the black Thatcham wire from the cream Peugeot wire, it has no where else to be connected!! Please any help, what is this wire for/where roughly does it go. I have traced it over the steering column and through the bulkhead, it is live when cranking, but have no idea what it is for!! Seventh picture: the unknown cream Peugeot wire joining the loom. Please note, half the wires of this loom goes to the fuel pump relay (which is why I suspect the cream wire goes that way as well) Eighth picture: the unknown cream Peugeot wire over the steering column, before it goes through the bulkhead, under the heater pipes Ninth picture: black connector, as part of the fuel pump fuse, Please note, the wire either side of it changes colour, i.e. yellow in, cream out. Is this normal?? Tenth picture: fuel pump fuse connector on fuse board. The yellow wire goes to the black connector (pictured above), the cream wire goes to the fuel pump. The red connectors with black wire in between are connected together. I assume Thatcham made a mistake when fitting. Right, Hope this all helps, it is as detailed as I can make it, if I have left anything out, please let me know. Any help, much appreciated!! Thanks very much, Alex