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To make a change from welding and to help me move the car about in the shed I thought I’d have a bash at getting it running. Currently sorted most of the engine loom wiring out, but I’ve found the above 2 earths and don’t know where they bolt onto. They’re on the branch of loom that has the SAD valve and distributor plugs on, so they must be somewhere on the LHS of the engine, but does anyone know where?

205 collective, looking for some assistance on identifying the brown plug shown in the attached which is situated under the steering wheel of my 1.6 GTI (1991) (non-AC, non PAS, non electric windows). The loom has come out and been back in but I'm confident that this is situated where it should be. There just doesn't seem to be anything to plug it in to! Note, there are two other brown plug connections down there which you can see in the background of these images. These are all tied in and meet the appropriate connections hence my confidence that this is in the correct location i.e. it's constrained by these other cables by a fairly short run of cables which make up it's "branch" and isn't floating on 5 feet of cable and could go anywhere. Many thanks in advance for any clues or thoughts on this. Does it need to connect to something? Is it a spare?

Okay so basically my '92 205 Gti won't start. What happens is when I get a jump start my car idles for about 10 mins but then struggles, revs go way below 1000 rpm and cuts out if you don't put the revs on yourself. After this the car won't start. Not even turn over! Yet the electrics such as Windows seem to work and the lights. So what do I do? Annoyingly I'm currently at a festival and didn't bring my multumetre so can't determine some stuff but the little colour indicator on the battery says it's fine. Any suggestions? Thanks for reading

Hi everyone, i have a 1989 1.9 Gti. The front fog lamps arent working on main beam, fog lights are new, tested and work. Im going to have a look tomorrow so to same some time my question is where is the relay for the fog lamps and which fuse does it feed through. Cheers

Hello, The electrical work in my car is not it's best and there's a lot of loose ends here and there. But my cooling fan does not work and it makes driving in traffic unbearable. So looking at it I'm guessing this is the wire socket for the fan as it's located near the fan but is hanging freely with no clear location for it to go. So would plugging this in to it's rightful destination fix my fan issue? If so, where does it go? It is also fried so Would anyone know where I could buy another 3 pin connector like this one? Edit: the part number leads me here: http://m.eeuroparts.com/Parts/68365/...JPT-171906230/ wondering if anyone knows of a non international seller? Cheers for reading Anyway here is the picture:

Can anyone ID these please:

Hi, We are currently working on a 205 Gti 1.6 We have 5 young people doing it up with us but we have been having some issues along the way. we have a facebook page to see the progress. www.facebook.com/2fast2soon.projectgti at some point it has had a starter switch added and a toggle for the gin. But i'm not sure if it is wired correctly as currently it will not start the car. we have checked fuses and starter and that is all ok. and help would be grate. when you turn on the ign you do not get the fuel pump on until you press the starter (i know they can me down to pressure but we have had the fuel pipes off so no pressure and it still doen't work untill you press the starter button) The starter button has 2 cables coming off it. i thourght it would just be one cable?? If anyone knows what colour cable are and what they do that would help me out loads to check if they are right. many thanks jonny

Hi all again,Just spent whole day rewiring the plugs on rear of dash display..all warning lights and gauges now working correctly - someone had wired-up the plugs incorrectly prior to me purchasing the car ! But still have an issue with left hand indicator .. all indicators work fine via 'hazard switch' and right hand indicator functions ok via stalk switch. Problem is when I try left hand indicator there is a buzzing noise from either the fuseboard ( brandnew) or a relay above it..Thought that the stalk/switch was maybe 'shorting-out internally' ? I have tried an alternative stalk and still have same problem..Any ideas please ?? Loom and switch gear is phase one 205... anyone have a new stalk or one in good working order - need it sorted asap for MOT test next week...

Hi everyone, Something that has been bugging me for a while is the affect that having electrical devices turned on has on the idle on my 205. I know there will always be some impact but mine seems to suffer quite badly - for example, with the headlights on, heated rear window on and heater fan on half speed it will drop by as much as 4 or 500rpm on the rev counter depending on how warm the engine is and if the radiator fan has come on. I also find that if I press the brake pedal whilst the car is idling then this also drops the revs further and has led to stalling on the approach to junctions in the past. I wouldn't class these as extreme conditions (especially in winter) and I want to do some investigation to see if I have any faults or partial shorts that are causing a higher than necessary current draw. I've done loads of work on the air and fuel sides and the car idles really well now when there's no electrical load but I can't help but think that I'll see my old cutting out on the approach to junctions problems come back when I get out on the road at night or in the rain. At the minute I have the idle speed set slightly high (about 1100rpm on the rev counter when warm) to compensate but even so, when warm, if I turn a few devices on and press the brake pedal repeatedly it very nearly kills the engine. I do find that the affect is less pronounced when the engine is cold and the SAD is open (fast idle) but once the SAD closes (squeezing the pipe has no affect on idle) then the electrical impact on the idle gets worse. So, how do I go about testing all this? My first thought is to place my multimeter inline with the battery -ve terminal and the -ve clamp and measure the increase in current draw as various devices are turned on, make a note and see if there are any trends that appear by way of the circuits that devices are on and combinations of devices but I'm not sure if I should do this with the engine running (would this be dangerous/would I be risking blowing my meter?) as I don't want to flatten the battery by off and oning loads of devices for a day. I then think it might be a case of testing individual circuits by removing fuses and completing circuits with my meter to see if any circuits are drawing any/high current when the engine is off as this might give me clue as to a partial short but this is only what my common sense is telling me - any other ideas would be welcome please. Also, I don't really know what is an acceptable increase in draw for each device. The car doesn't blow fuses so I guess, if there is a/a combination of faults then I'm relying on subtle increases in the meter readings and I don't have any reference points - can anyone help me with this please? The one that really freaks me out the most is the brakes - however I'm not sure how applying the brakes might impact the idle outside of the electrical circuits associated with the brakes (lights etc.) any ideas would be welcome please as I can't assume that the drop in idle speed due to pressing the brake pedal is 100% electrical? I don't really understand how the brake system integrates into other systems that could affect the idle and I need to eliminate any other causes too so again, any help would be appreciated please. I should add that the alternator and battery are in good condition. The battery is a new 60ah battery and the alternator is from a 306 D Turbo - the voltage across the battery terminals is good regardless of the electrical load (14.8v when idling with no load, 14.3v with the headlights and fan heater on). Also, there is one unknown in that the idle/mixture screw hasn't been calibrated as yet - I have followed Damir's advice on here to achieve a ball park setting and this will be set up properly next Monday. The final piece of this puzzle is that although I do get good voltage across the battery terminals, the battery light on the dash does glow faintly if I use a lot of electrical devices when the car's idling. I also find that operating the electric windows seems to dim the dashboard lights. When holding the car at about 2.5k rpm, all of this goes away - the dash lights are unaffected by anything and the rpm stays constant regardless of what i turn on. After reading numerous other posts, I've made sure that the alternator exciter wire is good by watching the lights on the dash when starting and as far as I know all the earths are connected and in good order. I'd be really grateful for any pointers that could save me a bit of time chasing around the car with my meter please. It'll be a shame if I can't get this sorted after all the work I've done stabilising the idle as it does idle really smoothly now (until I turn a few bits on ) Many thanks in advance. Ian.