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Hi everyone, I’m fairly new to the Peugeot scene having previously only driven VWs. My girlfriend recently got her hands on a 1.7ltr diesel Inca. The car had only had one previous owner and a ton of service history and appeared to be in amazing condition. However after driving it for 6000 miles or so the head gasket decided to blow. I was quoted £1000 fix by a few garages. One even offered to buy the car for £300. instead I decided I’d take the job myself as this was a car I feel I can learn a good amount from. However having purchased the gasket set, new head bolts water pump etc. I have a Haynes xud workshop guide on the way, but I’m really unsure as to what it is I’m supposed to be removing from the bay in order to get the head off. I’ve already managed to remove the cylinder head bolts with little trouble, but there’s so many different components that seem to be coming from the engine I’m at a loss for what’s next. I’ve read certain things saying you need to removed belts etc but I was wondering if this would be covered in the Haynes book. An idiot like me really needs a step by step guide on what needs to be removed. I also have noticed that there isn’t a diesel specific guide for the 205 so is the XUD guide my best bet? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Hi all , I'm new to the site so please forgive any breach in etiquette! I am a new owner of a 205 STDT 1.8 XUD7T. I am having trouble with the Fuel Gauge and the Rev Gauge . The fuel gauge flickers wildly from full to half to empty quite randomly and sometimes seemingly is affected by acceleration. I removed the fuel sender to check the plug and wires and all seemed good. I did find the sender covered in a very sticky greasy residue , most of which I managed to clean off and I could hear the float moving freely inside. When I bought the car , the chap suggested that it was likely the “voltage stabiliser” on the clocks that may need to be replaced. I am not familiar with this , where to find it and where to source a new one (the right one). the Rev Gauge does not work at all and as yet I have not had the opportunity to delve into that quite yet. I did also have an issue with the blower fan not working at all but with a bit of a clean up of the resistor it came back to life. apart from that she is in fairly good condition . any advice on the fuel gauge and Rev counter would be very much appreciated . Thanks in advance Adam

I'm needing a new back box for my phase 1 306 1.9 TD I was thinking of getting this sportex one https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/293680282335?ssPageName... But I've never had any experience with sportex. Am wondering if this would be suitable for a daily. Not too loud for my neighbours or going down the motorway but sounding decent. I know it's an arbitrary question based on peoples own opinion but it'd be good to get an idea. It's only a backbox, I'll be keeping my cat on and the description reckons it's not too loud but be good to hear from people with experience. cheers

As above really guys, when the STDT last fired (a while ago and it's still a work in progress) it fired straight away but we noticed fuel leaking from around the injector area - first port of call is replacing the leak off pipe but I can't get the existing pipe off. Any advice on removing it as presumably I need to keep those pieces as templates to cut new leak off pipe and replace what I've removed? FYI not a mechanic, total beginner, fine with services, trim and all that, just not so much wiring and powertrain related (learning as I go)

Hi there,im looking for some help.... My 205 1.8 Diesel mardi grass m reg (94) 5 door has odd stiff steering when going lock to lock,it will be free then suddenly stiffen then go smooth then stiffen etc. i have changed both top strut bearings and there are no leaks from the power steering,checked tyres etc...i have decided the (uj) universal joint has worn and there is an awful lot of play in the steering wheel when stationary,i have looked everywhere and am stuck on what to do as its no ran out of m.o.t and will fail because of the (UJ) Im wondering if there is anybody out there that can tell me where to buy new or rebuild ones or even a second hand one for sale?? any help? i got a quote of £170 for a new one from arnold clark but theres no way im paying that haha im stuck,could you help me? Thanks Stuart

HI Everyone ive just motd my 1991 peugeot 205 dturbo 5 door in red!,after a few weeks the head gasket went so ive decided its time for an engine swap it has a 1769cc turbo diesel engine ,no intercooler! My plan is to pick up a secondhand peugeot 306 d turbo engine with the enginemounted intercooler? i do a fair bit withs cars so im not shy for a big job haha what i was wondering is does everything line up? which gearbox is best? driveshafts?? do i need to fabricate a downpipe exhaust? what other things do i need to change? i hear the power steering from 205 wont fit with 306 diffrent set up?? with he intercooler ,will it fit under my bonnet?is it worth putting a vent in the bonnet? any of your help would be fantastic!,any guides out there?,anyone done it ?? Thanks ,Stuart

Hi all, I've only posted a few times to ask questions, so thought I'd show what I've been doing to my car. This is copied from several posts on another forum, so it's kinda long. The car is a 205 1.8TD. I call it the "Dream Machine", quite a few other people have laughed at me. It does all I want, and is even practical for cycling trips (just) First off. The bonnet hinge is missing a bolt, and it was annoying me. Fixed. Then I started doing some experiments with the existing water temperature sender, and a nice gauge I got really cheap off Ebay. They didn't go well.... So I gave up and ordered a real VDO sender. It works now, but there's some more to do before I fit it all. So I did some other stuff.. The rear wiper didn't work, so I removed it and filled the hole. This removes a potential MOT failure point, and also saves weight. The rear washer didn't work either, so I removed that as well, for the same reasons. I removed the stereo, as I'm putting gauges where it currently sits. I also removed the rear speakers ("240W Music Power" Bangin!). I'll be replacing it all with a suitably lightweight system. It left some odd holes in my parcel shelf, but it does save weight. I also picked up a very cheap Racetech dual oil temperature/pressure gauge. The capillary tube for the temperature gauge was snapped off at the case, so I took it apart to see if there's anything I can do. Looks awesomely clockwork inside... Not really much I can do. However, after carefully cutting off part of the case, I revealed the remaining stub of copper capillary tube. I've come this far, I think I'll be attempting a brave repair. But another time. That'll do for today. Total weight saved - 6.5KG. The plastic grip of both keys had broken. I have had to carry the little stub of a key in my wallet for a few months, which has become mildly irritating. Time to sort this out. Cut this bit of box off an old trolly I got an angle grinder for my birthday over a year ago, and haven't yet tried it out. I took some brave pills, donned the approriate PPE, and set to work. Stripped the remaining plastic off the key. Heated up the cut piece Got a bit of wood wedged in the remaining box I used as a makeshift former to hammer the hot metal. Decided to burn it out... Looks...promising? Back to tools of a size I'm more used to.... Enlarge the countersunk holes... Done, and looking beasty. Ground off the bolts at the back. After banging on about them for months, I finally fitted my gauges today. What an epic it's been.... After finally getting the right combo of pipes and adapters, I set about making a dash panel. Take 1: Old baking tray. This didn't go so well, so I turned my attention to a piece of old floorboard. Genius, or madness? Time will tell. After two attempts, I was forced to concede it was madness. Take 4 was made of oak, kindly donated to the cause by my housemate's dad. Here it is, after a lot of rasping and sanding, compared to takes 1, 2, and 3: I gave it a coat of linseed oil, and started fitting the electrics. They work! The time and effort gap between these two photos is enormous, but here they are, all fitted: Will need to get out on a test drive and see how they work, but one problem is already apparent: the water temperature gauge only works when the headlights are turned on. Ah well. I'll fix it another time..... I'm going to give a little preview of what I've got planned for the car stereo. I said it would be light, so I decided to make my own with a bare minimum of features. I've started the design, but it's turning out to be quite a lot of work.... I've finished the front panel Test fitted. In fact, when it's done (if all goes to plan), this is all you will see of the stereo. Still got quite a lot to do with the electronic design and layout....

Hi all, My XRDT is starting to exhibit some funny behaviour on starting. When starting from cold it doesn't idle normally, the revs hunt up and down and when you pull off it 'bunny hops' (not violently but it's noticeable) for the first 100m or so and then settles down. It also puffs out quite a bit of white smoke. After this behaviour it will drive fine. The fuel filter was changed last week and I tightened up the belts which had been squealing. I hadn't noticed this weird starting behaviour before this. It has been gradually using coolant too - I have to top it up every 4 weeks or so. The clutch is probably on it's way out, the bite point is very high. I don't know if this information is relevant but I thought it was worth mentioning. I really know very little about engines so any suggestions to what it could be or ways to narrow down the causes would be greatly appreciated. Ben

Not for a Pug, but I'd have thought that a manufacturer would make decent plugs for more than one manufacturer / model. Eurocarparts stocks Denso, BERU and Bosch - all about £16 with BERU about £1.50 more. All are about £6 cheaper on CarPartsForLess, but really need them this weekend so need to be able to pick up rather than wait for delivery next week, so that's out GSF also stock the BERU, but at roughly £12 So are BERU any good? Have to say I've never heard of them so not sure if they're worthwhile or not. Thought about asking on LandyZone, but the general response to Freelander problems is 'Burn it!' Cheers for any advice / suggestions

So.. i got myself an absoloute bargain; and is now a donor for the 'new' plan. Specs; 1.8 NAD 205K - yes, 205,000 miles! 1 - yes 1 previous owner from new! cambelt and aux belt done 5k ago serviced 5k ago theres a few problems with it - leaky rad, dodgy rear lights, busted rear beam but nonetheless engine is absoloutely SOUND. Had a good drive and look around and for £300 i had to snap it up... The previous owner have had this from the factory and got the bumper and sunroof as optional extras and could explain EVERYTHING which has been done on this. Really happy with it; collecting on tuesday once the new V5 has come through (the owners wanted to keep memories and put the original H plate on their fiat panda) My plan was to just get a REALLY old NAD to trash around, but after seeing the condition, quality and sound of the engine, i just couldn't trash it. Oh, and it's bosch'd - Coaling time! Probably going to turbo this as Max has all the bits ready to go! For anyone that knows strictly derv on here, a similar build will be going into this; a nice XUD9 lump, big blower, FMIC and some nice fuel pump mods.. C&C welcome