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I've decided to reproduce three most desired gear knob tops for Ph 2 GTI and Griffe. First samples have arrived and though very faithful to the original (except it is not hard plastic but more rubbery) they are not perfect yet. I have adjusted few things and hopefully next samples will be as perfect as possible. As it looks now due to small quantity (2 figures) I can afford the price at £10 posted (regular mail, payment as a gift). If anybody is interested please make a queue following my example: 1. Rjuhar, 1x BE1, 1x BE3, 1x GRIFFE

Hi all, Long time lurker and first time poster here. I'm having problems with a 1989 205 GTI 1.6 with ~80,000 on the clock (no history to prove). The car has a BE1 box (reverse over first incase I'm wrong). The problems are (always a good start) that the clutch pedal feel really stiff compared to other GTI's, the box itself seems to crunch in all gears and the bite point is to the floor. The box can also be very tight trying to get it back out gear a lot. Say you're in fourth, you can have to push back the lever toward the handbrake and then move into another gear. When we bought the car we decided we were going to do a few things to try and remedy the problem but it hasn't done anything yet. We've replaced the clutch kit and the clutch cable with a genuine Peugeot one. We have put two cables in the car now as the first cable got stripped. I'm wondering have we not fitted the clutch properly (alignment issue), is it possible all sychros in the box are just f***ed cause it to crunch into every gear or is there a problem with the clutch fork mechanism (the pin between the clutch fork and the cable sometimes won't stay in)? It seems improbable (with my small amount of knowledge) that the syncros would be f***ed and crunching in all gears. Any help or insight would be great as we're at our wits end! Thanks, Andy.

Hi all, Long time lurker and second time poster here. I'm having problems with a 1989 205 GTI 1.6 with ~80,000 on the clock (no history to prove). I am having problems with my brakes and suspension. Suspension first. The car need some parts refreshed according to the NCT (Irish MOT). We have replaced the lower control arms in the car as well as tie rod ends. The ball joined were blown so we decided to replaced with the whole arms. Since doing so the car has developed a knocking sound when it goes over a bump. If I'm going down a bumpy road downhill and as the car rises and falls over the bumps, there's a noise as if I'm driving over close together cats eyes. This sound is also there when going along the motorway at ~60mph and I turn the car left. It's the same sound and can be felt through the steering wheel. We bought QH control arms and tie rod ends from a supplier here if that helps. The brakes issue is that the car seems to be pulling to the left under moderate to heavy braking. We have replaced all pads with new Mintex pads, new brake fluid and rear shoes and cylinders in the drums. the front discs are pretty much new. There are currently no fixing screws in the front discs as the PO decided he didn't need them for whatever reason. Is it likely that a caliper is going to need a rebuild or is it something else? If anyone could shed any light on these topics, it would be great. We're dying to get the car out once it's safe! Andy.

Hi all, Just finishing up my Mi conversion, and having a few issues with the clutch. I have searched round on this subject but not really found anything. First of all I should mention that along with installing the Mi16 engine, I have also fitted a BE1 Mi16 gearbox. My car is a phase 1 1986 (D) 1.6 GTi, and I have swapped out the clutch pedal and cable for a BE3 type. When we first started the car up the clutch would not dis-engage and the gears would just crunch if you tried to select one. So we adjusted the cable and then the clutch wouldn’t engage and you could select all the gears but had no biting point even when the pedal was fully released! After a bit of messing about we finally managed to find a sweet spot on the cable adjustment that would allow the clutch to engage when in gear and dis-engage to select a gear. Unfortunately this has left the biting point right at the top of the pedal and left the pedal feeling rather weak like it is struggling to spring back up as you lift your foot. The mechanic that has been helping me with the conversion says ‘this is the problem with conversions, things don’t work as well as they should, and that the best its gonna get.’ I dis-agree and think something has been fitted incorrectly along the way!! Has anybody else experienced similar issues, or have any idea what could be wrong with my set up? Thanks again Andy

I have had trouble getting my car in gear recently and yesterday was close to impossible so had a quick look underneath as a while ago i had the very same problem and it turned out to be most of the gearbox to engine bolts were loose anyway to my horror discovered gearbox oil seeping out fast from the offside speedo drive/driveshaft seal. Ive bought a pair on ebay from neat autos at 2:30pm and they dropped through the letterbox today at 11am well chuffed. So have started working underneath the car and noticed a small gap between the gearbox and block underneath and soon after discovered the bottom bolt at the rear was missing the one at the top rear had fallen out but thankfully was sat on the box still and the top front one was about 10mm hanging out the hole so have replaced them all. Right my boggle is this, the gunk that came out the driveshaft seal was jet black so have drained the lot from the final drive drain plug. The old seals were perfect and i soon realised that because the engine and box had parted it had pulled the offside shaft out of its seal a touch hence the leak. Not really a problem as im replacing almost everything rubber engine wise on it before the s*it weather comes anyway and ive done both sides now. The haynes manual says the box uses 10/40 motor oil pre 1988 wihch mine is and this is what ive used. Now after finishing the job ive read the chapter 13 supplement and it says the box uses 75w/80 gear oil from august 1987 and my car was registered august 16 1987 thanks haynes lol. So, will this be ok? Another boggle is although it says the box takes 2 litres, does this include the final drive oil area too as ive put in over 4 litres and it still didnt dribble back out the filler plug. What do you think guys?

Hi All, Further to my last post lots of bits have arrived, new sad hose, all the air filter hoses and the gear stick, which arrived for £29. Question is whether it's the right one. There is the white plastic bit that holds the lift up reverse cable in place on the existing stick but not on the new one. As this seems to be stuck on (there is a small hole in the stick into which a metal tube is stuck through plastic then stick) I can only assume that I've been sent a stick for later cars without the lift up reverse. Or is there a way of transferring the the plastic bit over. I did specify it was a lift up reverse, so is a little disappointing if it's the wrong part. Thanks, Phil