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Hello, my name is Robin and I am currently in the process of putting a Peugeot 306 (tu5jp) engine into my 205 generation. Right now everything is fitted, I thought al my wiring is al wired up, but it still doesn't start. No spark and probably also nog fuel comming into the cilinders, does anyone maybe have a quick guide or diagram how they wired this up? I have fitted a new fuel relay, because I have heard people talking about it going bad. I have. Also seen another topic with the same engine swap but that was from a Saxo vtr, is it the same? Because I think I'm missing a few wires they were talking about in that topic. Hope someone can help Thanks in advance.

Hello boys, I recently had my ECU programmed and i have an issue when i get to the 1500 RPM zone. The car stalls as I open the throttle slowly from start, but I can drive normally if i accelerate, before releasing the clutch. I´m attaching my tune file for help and opinion. Everything is welcome. Just for information, the car has ITBS, DB6 1.9 8v engine, and a very soft cam. THANKS!! 2020-07-29_15.55.56.mlg 205 CTI FL.zip

Have seen quite a few threads asking about these and blaming them for allsorts of faults, I guess not many actually have Haynes manuals these days? A very much maligned and over thought device, its a very simple rotary disc operated by a bimetallic spring, which has an electric heating element next to it, as well as being bolted to the side of the thermostat housing, there really isn't a lot to go wrong and they don't move fast and wear out like a more modern ICV/Idle control valve The Jetronic system is very much clockwork and has no idle control built in, the SAD purely reduces the amount of supplementary air that bypasses the Throttle butterfly the longer the ignition is on and the warmer the engine gets. So here's an extract from the Haynes manual. as you can see, very simple! here's the schematic - As you can see, its earthed through the starter solenoid, the very same wire that causes that oh so common 'click' and no chooch from the starter motor when you turn the key, so if that's causing voltage drop issues to the starter, it will also cause a high resistance on the earth side for the SAD so it'll take longer to close.

Hi all, i posted a while a go about finally gettting my 205 MI16 running on 16v management. I bought the car last year which was running on 8v. I contacted spoox to see what parts would be required and the list is as so: Mi16 engine harness Mi16ecu Mi16 air flow meter Mi16 injectors Link loom between the car & the engine harness Potentially a flywheel and crank sensor Cam adaptor Rotor arm Dizzy Cap Ignition leads Coilpack Does anyone have any of these parts that i can buy? ill stick an ad in the wanted section just in case. I am looking to get the car ready for march. She will e my track slag! Didn't get to use her last year as some idiot decided to rear end me at 70mph on the motorway! All advise welcome.

Hi all, I thought I should document my build as a reference for myself if no one else J First some history: I brought the car several months ago intending to use it as my daily car. I’ve always liked the 205 GTI and looking around I found this online: This is my little 205 gti bought it about 5 years ago has not had much use with me as its just been a toy I got the front seats reupholstered and they are very tidy (half leather type) I changed the motor bout 4 years ago for the130bhp motor and did the head gasket,timing belt tensioners and water pump back then it was done around 194 500kms. It has Spax adjustable suspension all round and is certified for this. Its just collecting dust in my garage would prefer it went to an enthusiast no timewasters as im very busy with work. nice tidy classic hatch Of course buying a car online – sight unseen – is a bad idea, but the price was right and having certified suspension was a plus. The pictures looked ok, so ….. I won the auction! I flew down to the South Island to pick it up (I live in Auckland, New Zealand), and was happy to see that the owner was a mechanic who owned a garage. On a test drive the car rattled, the clutch grabbed and I couldn’t fit in without the sunroof interior cover back – but …. it was my scruffy 205 GTI J I knew it needed work and thought I’ll drive it around for a few months while it figure out what was needed. First I needed to drive it the 15 hours or so back home, so I started off slowly and carefully listening to each creak and groan, but completely deserted winding roads (the South Island has spectacular roads!) led me to drive the car in a ‘spirited fashion’ late into the night. What a car! Suddenly I heard a weird noise, watch the oil pressure collapse and then the back stepped out alarmingly. I quickly pulled over to the side of the road and saw a big puddle of oil. Oh dear. I was in the middle of nowhere. In the morning I reassessed the problem and was just about to start hitching when I local farmer came along and was gracious enough to give a hand: My new car was literally being held up by #8 wire which he had cut out of the nearby fence! After examination the oil cooler feeder hose from the block to the cooler/filter was split, so we tried to MacGyver a new hose out of some old bulldozer hydraulic hose and jubilee clips – we also crossed threaded the bracket as it is made out of a metallic alloy of cheese – but the pressure was too much…. Very luckily I had ticked the mechanical breakdown option when I had brought insurance the day before, and the kind lady said that it was policy to return the car home! So after a couple of weeks faffing around the car was trucked up to Auckland and fixed (several times they suggested I scrap it, as it would be the same price. They also said they would fix the hose (and spoiler: the #8 wire caused damage), but would not start the car, or guarantee the engine. After picking it up I drove it about 300 meters and then it overheated. At this point many bad words were used……many, many bad words. Especially when I realized the *kind* mechanics had removed the bottle of brand new oil from the front seat and placed it in the boot, rather than the engine where I had thought it was. The engine was billowing smoke out the exhaust and some in the engine bay itself. After a couple of days calm down I realized that it was just an opportunity to move the rebuild earlier than anticipated. CESM Build Parameters: The car is a 1989 graphite 1.9 8V non-cat (Phase 1.5?) – which is the most desirable to me. This is a road car, so I want to keep it fairly stock – certainly looks wise – and keep the 8V engine. It will be my daily driver, so I am looking to create a reliable, well sorted car that drives great and keeps the spirit of the original. I would also like to keep the keep the BE1 gearbox, although the synchros are suspect. I have access to a well stocked garage over the university holidays, so I began to strip the car a couple of week ago. I have worked on bike engines before, but this is a significant step up and I have limited time – so I am hoping for some advice as I move forward: Current known issues: 1/ The complete exhaust is rusted through. 2/ The radiator is decrepit ‹3/ All the coolent passages are covered in rust and perhaps some weird algae (!!?!?) 4/ The cylinder liners are pretty rusted and have a decent notch at the top. 5/ The conrod and big end bearings are very worn 6/ The head may be cracked and is certainly very pitted. 7/ The driver’s side universal joint disintegrated whilst removing the engine block. 8/ I’m pretty sure that the BE1 synchros are toast. 9/ etc, etc, etc..... Tally ho! Ben

http://forum.205gtidrivers.com/index.php?showtopic=60923 ​ i have the exact same problem that is described hear i have emailed the person who started the topic and as of yet no reply wondering if any one else can shed any light on the mater things i have done allready new recon afm by atp electronics new plugs leads dizzy cap and rota arm new ecu temp sensor used new to be good ignition amplifier reapplied paste new plug for ignition amplifier as wires where not great new sad cant find any air leaks replaced inlet mani gasket completely baffled

hi i have very nearly finished returning my 1988 gti back to 1.9 8v from gti 6 but i seem to have a problem with the injectors both wires seem to show 12v and as i understand it one should b 12v and the other should b negative switched by the ecu to make it pulse, do the injectors get any other signals other then the ecu as it seems like something is missing ?? when i tested the injectors with a (bulb) in the end off the plug it didn't flash at all until l stop'd cranking and then at the very end it flashed once it all seems very odd dose any one no what each wire from the ecu plug dose as it would b helpful as i could then check wiring i need them identified by colors and ecu pinouts as i have no number's on my wires due to them being cut by previous bloke bodging in the gti6 engine any help much appreciated thanks olly

i have hit a dead end on a couple of wires and just need to no where to reconnect them theirs one yellow wire from left pin of aa witch went to 1 of 2 grey wires cant remember with one ​ ​ then another wire witch came off one of the 2 grey wires and went somewhere ( was pulling about and must have puled wire out of crimp ) i allso can not find where to conect the left aa wire (yellow) back up to ​ they all come out of this side of the car ​ other than this slight issue the wiring should be straight forward as the loom and ecu have been left in just a case of soldering all the wire back together i hope help much appreciated cheers olly

i have just put down a deposit on a 205 wit a gti6 engine in witch used to be in an old car of mine and the gti6 engine is f****d and i want to put the std 1.9 8v engine back in it my question is it has 1.6 gti box in and i presume a mi16 clutch i no the clutch to b a good quality luck item and very healthy as miles original done the conversion on the old car would the mi16 clutch bolt up to the stander ed 1.9 8v flywheel i would put a new clutch in but am on a very tight budget and just need it on the road help much appreciated cheers olly

Hi guys. This is my first thread after buying an 8v 1.9 track day car. The current engine is a pretty well speced: rebuilt 1.9 engine which had the crank polished, standard size. balanced rods and 1.6 pistons. twin weber 45s honed bores and new standard piston rings. the cylinder head had its ports smoothed out and valves all relapped. new piper hot hatch race cam 292 deg new cam belt and tensioner. new engine mounts, rear one solid alloy. flywheel was lightened, new ap borg and beck clutch. 1600 gearbox The car was put on a rolling road and made 150bhp at the wheels so circa 175 at the fly. Is this about the limit for a fast road/tack car or is there any further tuning to extract a bit more power? I have thought of throttle bodies of course but cant really justify the price as I like the webers anyway. Further cylinder head work? Many thanks in advance

I've done a search on here, as well as Google, but I still haven't found the answer to this question, and I know it's been asked before. What are the two sensors at the back of the XU 8v engine? They're right below the distributor and I think they're the only two sensors at the back of the engine.

Hi all, Hope everyone is well - it's been a while since I've posted. I've just took the fat bodied starter and solenoid off my standard 1989 1.6 8v as it has given up and I need a bit of advice about a replacement please. Looking through the past threads, I see that the slimline Valeo is probably the one I need to go for rather than directly replacing the fat body unit I have just removed. However, I can't find a part number anywhere on the forum - can anyone help with the Valeo part number for the slimline unit and maybe a Valeo stockist in the Leicester area please? The Valeo website sent me to a dealer that clearly states 'Bosch only' this morning :-) I've also had a look on Ebay and the following remanufactured units have returned from the same seller but I'm unsure as to whether the slimmer unit is the one I want or not as the units are not oriented the same way in the pictures. Also, although they're not very expensive, I'm just not sure about remanufactured - would I be best to go for a recon'd original Valeo rather than a remanufactured? Fat bodied unit http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PEUGEOT-205-INC-GTI-NEW-STARTER-MOTOR-1-6-1-9-1986-1991-/300556091961?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item45fa8a0239 Slim bodied unit http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PEUGEOT-205-INC-GTI-NEW-STARTER-MOTOR-1-6-1-9-1991-1996-/280383292994?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item4148258642 Any help would be appreciated. Thanks all Ian. ps - I'm sure that it's the starter I need to replace as I've tested all the usual and the starter's definitely knack'd - plus it's about 10 years old and seeing as I've gone to the trouble of getting it out (without removing the radiator or manifold) I want to replace it and the solenoid anyway.

Would anyone have something suitable to get myself and DCC started? Both 1.9's, with Jenvey's. Dan has an S60 ECU, 11 ish compression, Newman PH3 cam. I have S40, standard 9.6 compression, PT36 cam. Bring on the trumpets, and the joy of Bwarp.