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I’ve just finished rebuilding a car that was stripped of its engine and left for a long time! im looking to find the correct order to put these spade/connections onto the coil by the wing. positive side of the coil is closest to the body/chassis. all the cars/photos I see online don’t have the same amount or colour wires. any help much appreciated!

I've got a 205 Open that I've been working on to look like a euro rallye, got all the decals etc on, and just finished the wheel arches and its looking real nice. But the engine is completely standard, single carb, was wondering if there's anything I can do to increase performance, not necessarily by much, just looking for ideas. How much does the tu3a differ from the xs's tu3s? I would love to replace most of the hoses with some silicone ones however after searching everywhere I don't think anywhere offers such things for the tu3/a, I emailed bakerbm who said it's something they would like to look into but need an original set to work with. Maybe get rid of the standard air box and put on a performance air filter? If its even an improvement over the standard that is Any other ideas at all would be great, cheers.

Hi everybody – long time lurker here, first post! I'm from Argentina and recently got a 205, a pretty well kept XS from 1992. It has 230k on the odometer which is quite a bit but the car is mechanically and aesthethically sound. I recently installed XS vinyls (here in argentina it came without any decals), Hella lights and some mudflaps for extra rally flair. I did some basic maintenance, changed cambelt, including water pump, oil and oil filter, air filter, fuel filter and clutch cable as the clutch was super stiff. It's smooth now. Here are a couple of pictures of the car: It's all been pretty smooth sailing so far, I've driven around 1000km in the last couple weeks with the car. However, there is something that bothers me: The RPM needle shakes like crazy. It is like a micro-shaking thing, it still displays the correct RPMs, but instead of holding steady it moves just a few mm to each side very fast. I do not thing this is an engine problem as the engine seems to rev just fine. Anyways, the visual part is not so bothersome as the sound is...it makes this mosquito-like stutter sound that is really loud inside the car. So even though it seems to be harmless, it is very annoying and I would like to fix it. I've done some research in the forums and found some people with a similar problem BUT with the speed needle which apparently goes away with a new speedo cable. But the tach doesn't work the same way (it's electronic, right?) so I'm kind of lost as to how to go about fixing it. Without looking at it in depth, a mechanic friend said that the problem is probably the needle or the mechanism in the cluster itself and I should change the instrument cluster but I would like to avoid it if possible as sourcing a good one could prove difficult here. Do you guys have any ideas what could be causing it and if I may be able to repair it? Thanks!

Hi, I am hoping someone may be able to help me out here? I'm having an issue with my drivers door not locking. The vehicle is a 205 STDT. The car battery is not fitted currently as the vehicle is still being reassembled after being painted. The drivers door, opens and closes from outside and inside without issue. The problem is when I try to lock it with the key or tey to depress the manual lock tab to lock it , it move fractionally and then wont go any further. I have had the door panel off for inspection to check that all rods and plastic connectors are indeed connected - as far as I can tell, they are. I have removed the barrel from the door, tested it with the key and it rotates smoothly with no hesitation. The pasenger side door operates as it should , opening and closing, locking and unlocking without issue using key and the manual depress and lift tab. Surely even without the battery connected, in the absence of any power, the manual act of trying to depress the lock should still work? Similarly, I would assume that even with the battery removed the lock should still be able to be operated by the key? Otherwise what would happen when you have a flat battery? I suspect that the door lock actuator may be goosed but dont even know how to get a good visual of that inside the door cavity. Does anyone have a photo of the actuator by any chance? Or, if this is an issue you have encountered before and feel you can shed some light on the issue, please dont hesitate to drop me a line on this thread. I've seen a few threads that talk of sticking mechanisms but not this issue of being unable to lock manually. So, if it is indeed the door lock actuator, where can I buy a replacement and are they all generic across the 205 range of that 1994 era? I have stumbled upon a webpage that may have them. However, I am not at all sure if it is the right component for my car, as I cant actually see the one currently fitted to my car. OEM Part No - 6615.02 https://www.franzose.de/en/Peugeot/205/electrical-component-parts/ANR75366/ Many thanks in advance Adam

Hi I am in the middle of buying hubs from a 205 1.9 GTI, but I wondering how to see difference between compared to other hub that looks like the a 205 1,9 GTI. For example the Peugeot 306 hubs look quite similar, but I have heard they are not. How do I know a peugeot 205 1.9 GTI hub. I know that the Peugeot 205 1,9 GTI has 25 splines for the driveshaft and a wheel bearing in the size. wide [mm]: 36 mm Inside diameter [mm]: 42 mm Outside diameter [mm]: 82 mm Thanks for the help - Martin

So where do I start, apart from I am new here , never been on any forum before and really need some advise/help, so apologies if I do not follow the correct etiquette. I purchased a 205CTi back in 2000, drove and loved it for years but ended up putting it in a garage and sort of forgetting about it. When we moved 6 years ago I transported it to a barn where it has been sat gathering dust until now when I need to move it. The car was in excellent condition, except the drivers seat had a small rip in it. It has done just over 98k miles, had 3 former keeper and has a full set of old MOT's & service receipts. I has not been started for at least 8 years as I am to nervous just in case the cam belt has rotted and snaps. So why I am posting this, what should I do with it? 1. Try and sell it 'as is', if so any idea of how much to advertise for or where to advertise (prices seem to vary loads on autotrader). Anyone interested, as I think this is my preferred option? 2. Restore it and sell it, if so anyone know who might do this for me in the Essex area and thoughts on costs etc. 3. Find another location to store it, as the prices are going up and worth the storage costs. Thank you in in advance and if you need any more information, please let me know.

Hello I'm 18 years old , I bought a pug 2051.4 this summer .. unfortunately I can't afford buying and upgrading to a new bigger engine like a 1.9 GTI can someone help me with some ideas to gain more power please ? because my friends are making fun of my car but I really love my 205 is swapping the carburetor would be a good move ? and is there any specific carb model ? and Thanks

Hello, i am in desperate need of the chapters 6 thru 8 of the haynes manual for my 205 since i need to change the speedo cable, clutch cable and gear linkeages, all the pdfs i've found dont have them, and where i live it is impossible for me to be able to buy the original printed manual I have uploaded the manual i have without the needed chapters in case anyone needs it thank you very much in advance peugeot manual haynes 205.pdf

Hello ! I’ve just bought this car xs1.4 my 2nd Xs and 5th 205 I’ve had a right mare getting it home badly blown head gasket many water stops then finally gave in and trailered the last 20 mile, hoping the engine is ok ( it’s just the head gasket ) you could not wright the hole journey really! 3 questions 1 dose any one no history of the car previous owners on here would be nice to find out anything really 2 it’s not clear to me what head gasket kit to get , thickness of gasket and brand and just finding one ,there is a £36 full head set on eBay but not sure what to think 3 I’m going to do the head gasket myself and it’s my first one so is there any pointers/tips Hoping after this up have a nice /good little car to keep for a long time !!! Located Holsworthy Devon Help much appreciated Thanks Olly

So I have a project car going strong, and have hit a bit of a technical hitch. I knew it was coming but delayed addressing it anyway There is lots of info on here (and very good stuff too) about suspension when lowering 205s and how to avoid excessive negative camber, but what to do if you've done the stupid thing and raised it so have massive positive camber... Note I've lifted it by fitting 405 diesel struts/springs/shocks. Nothing else yet. The rear is fine obviously, but the front now needs a load more negative. I'm not sure that 309 arms would give enough - also my car is a non-GTI so has the TCA setup. Are the 309 lower track arms also ~10mm longer than the 205s or is that only the GTI wishbones? I'm not concerned too much about handling and addressing the finesse of bump and rebound as this isn't a track car or anything remotely similar. I just want it back to a neutral setup so it drives normally. Any thoughts on this other than the 309 arms? And will base 309 TCAs also be longer than 205 TCAs? Any help greatly appreciated, and apologies for not conforming to the 'lowered GTI' stance

Just wanted to find out has anyone ever done a 205 rwd conversion using an mx5 chassis and a 205 shell if so any tips or tricks?

Hi there,im looking for some help.... My 205 1.8 Diesel mardi grass m reg (94) 5 door has odd stiff steering when going lock to lock,it will be free then suddenly stiffen then go smooth then stiffen etc. i have changed both top strut bearings and there are no leaks from the power steering,checked tyres etc...i have decided the (uj) universal joint has worn and there is an awful lot of play in the steering wheel when stationary,i have looked everywhere and am stuck on what to do as its no ran out of m.o.t and will fail because of the (UJ) Im wondering if there is anybody out there that can tell me where to buy new or rebuild ones or even a second hand one for sale?? any help? i got a quote of £170 for a new one from arnold clark but theres no way im paying that haha im stuck,could you help me? Thanks Stuart

Hey all, I was just having a butchers around eBay this morning (I know eBay links aren't strictly allowed, bare with me) and this Altlantic CTi popped up which was imported from Japan, looks pretty tasty with the later engine and AC options and only around 15,000 miles on the clock. What really struck my interest was the registration date being late 1995 - that puts the car on an N-plate doesn't it? This has got to be the last one to registered by some margin hasn't it? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PEUGEOT-205-1-9-Cti-CONVERTIBLE-RHD-AIR-CON-TIME-WARP-CAR-COLLECTOR-QUALITY-/171928868249?hash=item2807c25599 Looks to be an absolute beauty, probably worth the money as well, can't say I'd pay that for a CTi though even though this would in theory tick all the boxes for me!

Hello all, I'm new to this forum although over the last few months I've been updating my progress over on Detailing World. I'm going to upload all of the content from there onto here, so apologies if the time frames done quite make sense! I purchased this car in September 2017, I had been searching for a little 205 for a year or so, but never found one local, and nearly all of them needed a lot of work. (that also turned out to be the case with the one i've bought!) With GTI prices sky rocketing, I decided to go for a slightly cheaper but just as good alternative, a little CTI. The market for these is very hit and miss, not many around, and not many good examples. I found this 1986 Space Grey Phase 1 205 around 2 hours away. Chap had owned it for 2 years, driven it a handful of times and kept it in a large empty unit of which he had free use of due to being the site maintenance man of a large industrial estate. The bonus of this is that the car had been dry stored for the last 2 years of its life. I initially walked away from the car due to it needing paintwork, engine work and interior work, however the 2 hour car journey home soon let me change my mind, I later called him with an offer, to which he accepted. Add photos: Collection day: And soon it was next to my restored MK1 VTS: (which I have since regrettable sold on) First job was to go through all the paperwork and date organise it and file it correctly, there was plenty to get through! The original dealer 'stag hill' had done a lot of the servicing on the vehicle in its early life. Next I moved onto giving the old girl a good check over, carried out a full service, replaced the timing belt and waterpump, radiator, thermostat and replaced all the cooling hoses with some replacement hoses from BakerBM. As you can see in this image, the coolant consisted of nothing but K seal, something that later down the line came back to haunt me... more on that later. Timing belt covers where all broken and in need of replacement! Good second hand upper covers where sourced, and a modified re-made lower metal cover was purchased. (plastic lower cover is prone to breaking) Whilst waiting on new parts, I sourced the correct 1.6 phase 1 pepperpot alloys and had them powdercoated and new Pirelli P1s put on. With the engine service all complete, I installed the new wheels and assessed the bodywork. Bodywork is not to bad, unfortunately someone had decided to paint the trims black whilst leaving them on the car! :wall: they where kind enough to mask with 2 inch masking tape next to the trim but nothing else!! Which resulted in a ********** line of overspray, all around the car. Shocking. On the plus side, the engine bay was looking good with a new battery, powdercoated airbox and correct period jack all installed. Interior condition is not horrendous, however some of the dash plastic trim is broken and needs replacing, which is incredibly hard to source! A few weeks later... replacement matts, correct phillips headunit and a bit of TLC. I moved onto the bodywork issues, a few weekends work with the polish and tar remover saw the bodywork back to life. The NSR quarter will require paint though.

Hi All I'm wondering if there is anyone who can help me out? I brought a 1.6 205 GTI a while ago, been a bit of a project. had an engine rebuild as it had flat cams, and head gasket had gone. But since then Myself and a friend who is a mechanic have struggled to get it to run properly/well It all seems to be linked into the timing as we have fuel etc, but can't find a way to time it? no obvious marks etc Is there anyone out there who knows how to do it??? Thanks in advance

Hey there guys, Since selling my GTi and buying an STDT I've become fascinated by this particular model, I'm aware that production was only for 8-9 months in 1993/1994 wasn't it? Now, I've got a L-Reg example which I thought was the only registration mark they were on but I've seen this : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f_jS4ucxRYk Looking at DVLA vehicle check, this bad boy isn't for this world anymore but my question is, has anyone else got an M-reg STDT? Also, are there any other colours aside Green, Grey and Gold?

Hey guys, what 205 models / colours are the hardest to obtain? I only ask because I have a Steel Grey STDT and I figure they are quite scarce since the Mallard Green version is easily more obtainable. Some models I rarely see are : Silver GTi Atlantic Blue CTi those 'petrol blue' N/P plate late 1800cc diesels Lazer Green 1.9(?) What about you guys? What's considered to be rare?

Hi everyone! I'm new here I've got a phase 1 405 mi16 that I want to for lack of a better term wake it up a little more! With everything else I have to do with the car before pugfest So budget is a big thing. What I'm thinking Gti6 intake manifold with ported and polished throttle body Gti6 exhaust manifold Omex ecu Coil pack conversion. I've a couple of questions though. Will the gti6 exhaust manifold clear the firewall in a 405? What else can I do that's not to extreme? Where can I find A full wiring diagram for a phase 1 mi16. I need to tidy up the engine bay wiring and remove a few things too. As for the engine I have further plans for later this year but that's a whole other story! Thanks for reading

Hello all, thought i'd share with you the progress i have made with my 205. I got this car from my brother who had owned it for the past 10 years. it was his daily until he had 2 kids! I used to love him taking me out in it when i was about 12, so was chuffed to finally get my hands on it and (attempt!) to restore it back to road/showworthy condition. The car itself is a 1.9 8v completely standard from 1991. The paintwork was fubar'd, few car park dents and minor rust creeping in. It really didn't look very tidy when i picked it up. I was lucky enough to find dry storage for it in my GF's dad's lorry shed. Here i had all the tools and space to begin work sanding back the horrible paintwork!

The topic of rally cars was bounced around at work today, and a name was thrown out of a chap who has a reputation for putting unusual engines in his rally prepared 205, Vincent Foucart. Did a little googling and it turns out he's built an utterly nutty Group B 205 with a triple rotor Wankel engine in it! Couldn't find any reference to it on here, so I thought I'd post it up! There's a couple of good youtube videos here and here. The thing sounds fantastic! Cheers, Mike

I have that gearbox but im not sure to gear ratios? The internet says in this box 3.69 FD (3.46 , 1.85, 1.36 ,1.07, 0.86) If it is correct? ​ my plan in that gearbox put 4.43 FD from 306 s16 box and i have very short box ​ max speed in 5 (7200rpm) is about 205-210 kmh ​ car is 205 GTi6 ... sorry for my bad english ..

Okay so basically my '92 205 Gti won't start. What happens is when I get a jump start my car idles for about 10 mins but then struggles, revs go way below 1000 rpm and cuts out if you don't put the revs on yourself. After this the car won't start. Not even turn over! Yet the electrics such as Windows seem to work and the lights. So what do I do? Annoyingly I'm currently at a festival and didn't bring my multumetre so can't determine some stuff but the little colour indicator on the battery says it's fine. Any suggestions? Thanks for reading

Hi guys. Maybe you can help me. The Bosch Throttle Switch for mi 205 gti 1.9 has failed. Here in Colombia it is very dificult to get a new original spare from Bosch. http://www.ebay.com/itm/peugeot-205-GTI-new-throttle-switch-1628G4-BOSCH-0280120327-POTENTIOMETER-/201524499384?hash=item2eebcbd3b8:g:z4oAAOSwgkRVSedj Original part. Can you guys help me and let me know which OEM part fits and works ? I have seen a lot of ones on the market, but i need to know for sure which one of which car/make/model can be used as an OEM replacement for the original. Many have told me that Berlingo TPS or Magnetti Marelli, but i'm not sure. If you have part numbers or photos i would apreciate it. Thanks!!

Hi everybody, I looked at the rear of the engine of my 1.9 205 gti, and noticed three sensors. 1. Is the sender for the temperature gauge. 2. is for the coolant temperature sensor. 3. The third one is unplugged but the car runs fine and everything. I have a cable thats loose, but when i connect it, the oil temperature gauge goes to the top. I'm asuming thaths the earth for the oil temperature sensor or gauge. That third one if anyone knows whats it there for, i could really apreciate your help because i don't wnat it there doing nothing, it has to do something, and i'm guessing it's important. Thanks.

Hello, The electrical work in my car is not it's best and there's a lot of loose ends here and there. But my cooling fan does not work and it makes driving in traffic unbearable. So looking at it I'm guessing this is the wire socket for the fan as it's located near the fan but is hanging freely with no clear location for it to go. So would plugging this in to it's rightful destination fix my fan issue? If so, where does it go? It is also fried so Would anyone know where I could buy another 3 pin connector like this one? Edit: the part number leads me here: http://m.eeuroparts.com/Parts/68365/...JPT-171906230/ wondering if anyone knows of a non international seller? Cheers for reading Anyway here is the picture: