Bosch Ecu

[mhyphenl 10 1 Cars]

Hi there,

 

I've got a 1993 8v 1.9 Gti DKZ engined car with a motronic 1.3 ECU. I have an ECU numbered 0261200162 (fitted) but it seems faulty. Can anyone tell me which it should be?? I went on an auto electronics web site and the ..162 one is listed for a citroen BX and nothing else, there is a ..160 one listed as Peugeot 205 309 405. Has someone fitted the wrong one to my car??

 

Cheers guys!

[welshpug 1,657]

The ecu part number you quote gives me this result on ATP electronic's database. ATP electronics Peugeot management part numbers listings

 

309 GTi 1.9 litre 8 Valve 88-91

 

Bosch Motronic 1.3

 

Bosch Part No, 0 261 200 162 o.e part No, 96 012 928 80

 

 

the 205 Motronic 1.3 comes up as follows

 

 

205 GTi 1.9 litre 8 Valve 87-90

 

Bosch Motronic 1.3

 

Bosch Part No, 0 261 200 160 o.e Part No, 1929 14 / 96 027 112 80

 

which is shown to be the same as

 

309 GRi/GTXi/SRi 1.9 litre 88-93

 

Bosch Motronic 1.3

 

Bosch Part No, 0 261 200 160 o.e Part No, 1929 14

 

and

 

405 GRi/GTXi/SRi 1.9 litre 89-90

 

 

not sure what the difference would be in the ecu's, but it looks to be fairly well used so getting the right one shouldn't be too difficult

[mhyphenl 10 1 Cars]

Ok, thanks for that. Looks like the wrong model number is fitted then. The management light has been on since I re did all the wiring and I couldn't find anythig wrong with the loom or the other sensors. I guess although its a motronic 1.3 unit the mapping is different. Hopefully getting a ....160 unit should change things a little, what do you think?

 

Many thanks for your time and reply!

 

Martin.

[DamirGTI 342]

I have *162 ECU on my Ph2 1.9 DKZ Motronic car .. try to reset the ECU and see if the engine check light then goes away .. it's easy job , can do that by yourself you'll need one led bulb , piece of wire and one ordinary breaker/switch for accessing/erasing the ECU system codes ..

 

Damir

[mhyphenl 10 1 Cars]

I have *162 ECU on my Ph2 1.9 DKZ Motronic car .. try to reset the ECU and see if the engine check light then goes away .. it's easy job , can do that by yourself you'll need one led bulb , piece of wire and one ordinary breaker/switch for accessing/erasing the ECU system codes ..

 

Damir

 

Hi Damir,

 

I built myself a little tester with the led and switch setup, its error code 52 that keeps popping up, reset many times but the light goes on and off all the time. Its CO mixture control so could be many things. Put a *160 in this morning and the light still comes on but less! Also seems to run much more smoothly! Problem is I cannot find any website that gives a '93 1.9 8v DKZ Peugeot 205 for either the *160 or *162 but the 160 is closer as it relates to the 205 309 and 405.

Is there anywhere that will tell me the Bosch number for my exact car?

 

Cheers guys

[DamirGTI 342]

Get the multimeter on the lambda sensor and measure the voltage output (look here for more info regarding lambda sensor testing : http://ngk.devserver.co.uk/e-learning/e-learning.asp) , might be worn out or lazy lambda sensor so it gives incorrect signal to the ECU .. or bad wiring on the sensor (especially earth .. but do check each wire - signal wire , earth wire , and two heater wires )

 

Check the CTS sensor as well (the one with blue 2pin plug on the coolant housing under the dizzy cap) :

 

C/P from my previous post

 

If in doubt , bring the multimeter out ! set it to 20K (K ohm) and measure the resistance of the ECU temp 2pin sensor (the blue one) first on stone cold engine and then on hot engine , fully warmed up to the operating temp , if it's fine you'll expect to see results as follows :

 

Engine completely cold (20C) - 2,000 to 3,000 ohms (if the engine coolant is colder than 20C such as near to the 15-10C mark because of the lower ambient temp. the resistance will be higher so around 3,000 to 4,000 ohms will be fine at 10/15C)

 

Engine fully warmed up to the operating temp. (82C) - 200 to 400 ohms

 

As the sensor temp decreases the resistance value will increase , as the sensor temp increases the resistance will decrease .. as these ones are NTC principle sensors (Negative Temperature Coefficient)

Check the sensor plug and wiring as well ..

 

Check the AFM too :

 

C/P

 

Regarding the AFM , can check it by removing the black plastic cover and looking at the black carbon track inside the AFM - if it's scratched or if you see any white spots/areas on the black carbon track then it's worn out , but this can be fixed (if it's not badly damaged/scratched) by re-tracking the AFM you can read more about how to test the AFM and how to perform AFM re-tracking here :

http://frwilk.com/944dme/afm.htm

Check the sensor plug and wiring as well ...

 

Damir

Edited January 10, 2009 by DamirGTI

[petert 586]

I've seen DKZ's with both 160 and 162, so I don't think it makes any difference. I agree that mixture control is most likely your lambda sensor.

[Richie-Van-GTi 71 2 Cars]

the one you had is off a 309 as well as the bx but only fit up to 91 which suggests a change of map later on due to Cat introduction. I would agree though that the lambda should be your first check.

[mhyphenl 10 1 Cars]

the one you had is off a 309 as well as the bx but only fit up to 91 which suggests a change of map later on due to Cat introduction. I would agree though that the lambda should be your first check.

 

So do we all agree that the *162 is the one that should be on the DKZ Cat engine, I know there was a problem with my original *162 for other reasons but the *160 does seem to work fine however the diagnostic light comes on at roughly the same points which would point to another problem. Would be cool to see what the consensus is regarding the correct part.

Got round to testing the lambda today and it seems to be stuck at 0.1V, i think this suggests lean or possibly just knackered. The only time the light seems to go off is under moderate acceleration, tickover its on, but only after the system goes into closed loop which is after a couple of minutes from cold! The AFM seems fine but the resistance doesn't go from low to high constantly when I move the flap, it wavers around a bit. No damage to the tracks but has been tampered with as the lid is not fixed down very well.

Did't have time to do the temp sensor but the tickover is fine, settles to around 800 - 850 when warm, 1200 when cold!

Because the wiring was so butchered when I got it, fuel pump / lambda heater relay totally bypassed, lambda bypassed! The fuel punmp was wired directly to the first position on the ignition!!!! Could they have moved the flap sensor on the AFM to get it through the MOT???

[Richie-Van-GTi 71 2 Cars]

it does sound butchered, I would throw a new lambda in and see how it responds, failing that borrow a known good afm for testing.

[DamirGTI 342]

Got round to testing the lambda today and it seems to be stuck at 0.1V

 

If all the wiring is good (connectors , signal voltage , earth etc.) and it still produces steady signal then replace it with new one ..

Good lambda sensor must perform like this (warm up the car to the operating temp first) : sensor voltage must increase as you increasing the speed/revs by moving the throttle leaver , so , when you increase the speed/revs (start measuring from the 2000/3000rmp range up) the multimeter reads 0.5 to 1.0 volt (and it must read/response quick when you operate/snap the throttle leaver on-off) and when you instantly let off the throttle/revs the multimeter must read zero to 0.4 volt .. that's if it's good , if it produces steady signal/voltage or voltage below 0.70 volts at 2000/3000rmp on fully warmed engine replace it .. but as said do check first if it's all fine with the wiring/connector/voltage supply side of the sensor ..

 

Damir