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damo

Gear Box, Clutch , Flywheel Swap

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damo

First thanks to westy for the help and the other forum members for parts etc :)

 

This may turn into a mini information topic but here goes -

 

I have a CTI with a 1.9 engine, the plan was to swap the gear box to a 1.6, but i was offered a cheap clutch and 1.6 fly wheel. So i had the bright idea to swap everything!! being a novice its was a lot more then I had planned and a bigger job then expected, took 12 hours!!

 

Had to drop the engine a bit to get clearance for the gear box etc and the manifold had to come off for the started motor / fly wheel bits.

Got its all off and the 1.6 fly wheel is lighter then the 1.9. a few kg's, stuck it on and used the original bolts torqued to 39 nm as in the book. on whent the new clutch and finally the 1.6 gear box.

 

I used the same bolts for the swap and at the end noticed it mention lock thread? plus a few other problems like missing bolts for engine bits, no manifold gasket, split oil breather pipes and snapped the rad thermostat!! So the jobs due to finish on friday with westy's help again.

 

I took the car for a quick spin (a bout a mile) and everything seems great so far. New gear linkage makes the gears sweet and it seems to be a lot more free with the revs. Once I get the other jobs / repairs complete i can put a personal comparision on the difference.

 

I did test the car with no coolent !!! wondered why the temp gauge moved up so quick, so another mistake.

 

Questions -

 

With the fly wheel, I assume as its torqued up to the book (39 nm) for the XU gti fly wheel I dont have to worry about anything?

 

My gear linkage kind off catched the gearbox a little, can I just bent the shift a bit so it clears?

 

Running the engine for a mile with basically no water in it wont break anything?

 

Damo.

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dcc

over tightening is an issue on the flywheel. just look for meir's post (welshpug) as he slapped the heads off of his bolts when he missed gears. make sure you use new bolts.

 

running the engine is a difficult question to answer. you might be lucky, you might not. depends how hard you drove it, how recent the gasket is and how flat the head face is.

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westy

Thought I'd pop my head in ;)

 

When we swapped the flywheels over, we used the same bolts as I had removed from my 1.6 engine earlier in the day. We did them up just a fraction over what they should be, by 3 or 4 nm. Halfway through the swap I thought about welshpug's thread, and how new bolts should be used and threadlocked.

 

Is it 100% necessary? All the bolts were in good condition, and torqued up properly and double checked.

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Miles

You really need to thread lock at least the flywheel bolts, Snapping them isn;t a problem it's them coming out which is a risk but will it happen is done to luck, 1.6/1.9 the bolts are all the same anyway so thats not a issue.

 

Running the engine with no water for a very short period's OK and in this weather not as bad if when hot, but if run for any length of time then this can lead again to all sorts of problems, but fill it up with water/A Freeze and test it again.

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matty_gti

Even in cold weather they get hot so I'd just fill it with water and go from there....

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westy

The first startup of the engine was only for about 20 seconds or so, not all of the coolant was dropped anyway, around 70% of it. It only took a litre or so to top it up.

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damo

thx for the advise, so as i need to put thread lock on i just as well get some new bolts .

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Rich_p

I did the same swap on mine and used new flywheel botls from pug just to be on the safeside. I think they were about £1.20 each or around that.

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damo

can anyone confirm the torq setting?

 

39nm as in the nook for a xu engine?

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