Mac210882 0 Posted December 20, 2008 These things always happen to me I'm sure. I've just been out in the garage replacing my front shocks. All went well, everything tightened up, wheel back on etc. Then the last thing to do is nip up the three top mount nuts on the front wing. Two nipped up nicely, the third just pinged and sheared.... So, I guess I'll have to buy a new top mount kit (can you get them separately - as I've just bought Grp N rubbers and new bearings separately) - disassemble the whole thing again, and replace the top mount. If I'm doing one side I might as well do both I think I know the answer, but I assume it's unsafe to drive with 2/3 top mount bolts in the strut top? Cheers Iain Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oli-pug 6 2 Cars Posted December 20, 2008 Quite a common occurence, I had one shear a while ago too. They only need to be nipped up to 20nm if i remember rightly. All i did was remove the strut, drill out the sheared stud and weld a suitable bolt on from underneath the top mount. They're M7 thread i think but an m8 does the job Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mac210882 0 Posted December 20, 2008 I've obviously done them too tight Cock Also I don't have a welder to hand, and being near to Christmas I doubt there's anywhere out there that will do it for me until the new year. The car is off road but it's still bloody annoying Cheers Iain Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Goliath 94 Posted December 20, 2008 As above, just put a bolt through, you dont even have to weld it, drill it out and put a nut+bolt in place. (use a washer if neccesary) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mac210882 0 Posted December 20, 2008 Will that do it? I suppose thinking about it all they are doing is preventing the shock rotating, hence the triangulation of three bolts. Cool, I'll give that a go as I've got loads of M8 nuts and bolts lying around. Cheers guys Iain Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jackherer 543 Posted December 20, 2008 As above, just put a bolt through, you dont even have to weld it, drill it out and put a nut+bolt in place. (use a washer if neccesary) Agreed. The weld is just to hold the bolt while you put a nut on it, it is slightly awkward to hold it under the arch while you thread the nut on but once its done up its as good as the original stud. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tom Fenton 1,542 Posted December 20, 2008 I've obviously done them too tight Cock Also I don't have a welder to hand, and being near to Christmas I doubt there's anywhere out there that will do it for me until the new year. The car is off road but it's still bloody annoying Cheers Iain I've 3 welders in the garage, if you can bring it down then I can repair it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rom 0 Posted December 20, 2008 i snapped one of mine over a year ago, still not got round to fixing it properly Nut and bolt is fine, been holding mine fine for a long time now ! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rupertfinch 6 Posted December 21, 2008 I've done the old nut trick as well. I was even cheap enough to superglue it in place and then use 2 nuts to secure it. Hasn't moved in 3 years. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kb_205 11 Posted December 21, 2008 this happened to me few months ago! you dont need to weld as you can still get access to hold the bolt with a spanner! little bit awkward but its a fast fix i need to replace the bearings ect, i have done the rubbers (grp N) already as i feel this may be the cause for my steering issues and the sort of snappy clonk coming from the front N/S . have recently replaced everything else ie.. drop links, gaz shocks, driveshafts, wishbones, what comes in the kits available from GSF exactly thanks Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Alastairh 47 Posted December 21, 2008 Also done it. It caused a very light knock when driving hard from stand still, but how often do you do that? Al Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mac210882 0 Posted December 22, 2008 Sorted I drilled the old one out (easier said than done with s*ite drillbits ) and replaced it with an M8 nut and bolt. A little bit fiddly to get lined up but if you bolt the other two up first at least you don't have to take the weight of the shock whilst trying to line up the third nut and bolt. All back together now - thanks for your input guys Iain Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
philfingers 5 Posted December 23, 2008 Will that do it? I suppose thinking about it all they are doing is preventing the shock rotating, hence the triangulation of three bolts. Cool, I'll give that a go as I've got loads of M8 nuts and bolts lying around. Cheers guys Iain Unless you go lying over humpback bridges etc then they stop the front suspension dropping off when it's in the air, be it flying, or on stands/jack. They're only mild steel anyway, very soft. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fox 3 Posted December 23, 2008 I just nip these up with a 1/4 inch drive, best if you drop it back to the floor, nip them up, go for a spin, then nip them up again Thats how I do it anyway! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Henry 1.9GTi 36 Posted December 23, 2008 done the same sump bolt welded in its place did the trick, glad you sorted it out, I took the whole strut assembly apart; from reading this it seems I made extra work for myself. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ren 0 Posted December 26, 2008 this happened to me few months ago! you dont need to weld as you can still get access to hold the bolt with a spanner! little bit awkward but its a fast fix i need to replace the bearings ect, i have done the rubbers (grp N) already as i feel this may be the cause for my steering issues and the sort of snappy clonk coming from the front N/S . have recently replaced everything else ie.. drop links, gaz shocks, driveshafts, wishbones, what comes in the kits available from GSF exactly thanks I would imagine the kits are just the bearings and the rubbers. If you've fitted group n rubbers then buy a pair of the bearings listed for the berlingo van as they are the same. Ren Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
welshpug 1,662 Posted December 26, 2008 (edited) yep, the "kit" from gsf is just the bearing and rubber donut, not sure to what spec the donut is either, probably just a generic one. the bearing itself is part number; N45710 STRUT TOP BEARING 106/205/206/306/307/309/405/PARTNER ALL MODELS~~USE N45710~~ £8.75 I think Peugeot want around the £21 mark for them. the whole kit you can only get from Peugeot AFAIK (never seen it anywhere else) , but what you'd have to buy to get the top mounting plate is No2 in this diagram; Which is basically everything that sits on top of the spring upwards! retails at £42.49 per side though, which IMO isn't that bad 9503125 MOUNTING ASSY ) Edited December 26, 2008 by welshpug Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kb_205 11 Posted December 26, 2008 thanks for the info guys! im going to go for the bearings hopefully this will solve my ongoing steering issue, will let you know how i get on! cheers Share this post Link to post Share on other sites