bensonmi 4 2 Cars Posted December 18, 2008 right then,i will be sticking a 1.6 box into my mi16 which was originally a 1.9, fitting the box is no problem, i know you need to fit a 1.6 clutch pedal so i need 1 of them. i have a new clutch cable to go on i just need to know how you sort out the linkages or selector i.e do you lengthen the rods,shorten them? and as it originaly has the lift up reverse do i need to change anything else? i have tried a search btw but it never works with me!im prob doin something wrong Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
welshpug 1,661 Posted December 18, 2008 if you're changing from BE1 to BE1 or BE3 to BE3 you don't need to change anything bar the box Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bensonmi 4 2 Cars Posted December 18, 2008 if you're changing from BE1 to BE1 or BE3 to BE3 you don't need to change anything bar the box the 1.6 box has the reverse under 5th, the 1.9 box has the lift up reverse next to first. never known which be is which box! but im sure im about to find out ..... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Anthony 1,003 Posted December 18, 2008 Lift-up reverse is BE1, reverse below 5th is BE3. As said, you need to change the clutch pedal and cable, but that's it - although ideally you'd swap the gear lever as well to one without a lift-up collar. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bensonmi 4 2 Cars Posted December 18, 2008 Lift-up reverse is BE1, reverse below 5th is BE3. As said, you need to change the clutch pedal and cable, but that's it - although ideally you'd swap the gear lever as well to one without a lift-up collar. ah cheers il remember that now, always wanted to know! as to the linkages, any1 know? do i lenthen 1 and shorten1, shorten them both or lengthen them both?? or is it just a case of having a play? cheers Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TRYNKEEPUP 0 Posted December 18, 2008 when i swapped 1.6 engine and box to 1.9 items i dont recall having to adjust linkages. Im sure they just pop back on may need a slight tweek though Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Anthony 1,003 Posted December 18, 2008 as to the linkages, any1 know? do i lenthen 1 and shorten1, shorten them both or lengthen them both?? or is it just a case of having a play? cheers I've never had to adjust any linkages when doing BE1 to BE3 conversions. Good opportunity to check the condition of the linkages though, as the longer of the two going to the 'box does tend to suffer with age a bit and can pop-off when the cup wears.... leading to embarassingly having to put the linkage back on at the side of the road, liberally burning your hand on the exhaust manifold (been there, done that...) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bensonmi 4 2 Cars Posted December 18, 2008 I've never had to adjust any linkages when doing BE1 to BE3 conversions. Good opportunity to check the condition of the linkages though, as the longer of the two going to the 'box does tend to suffer with age a bit and can pop-off when the cup wears.... leading to embarassingly having to put the linkage back on at the side of the road, liberally burning your hand on the exhaust manifold (been there, done that...) ah cool im glad to hear theres nothin too fiddly about it!il have another set of linkages so il just use the best set! is just that when i put it in my other 1 it wouldnt go into gear but i never tried playin with the linkages! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Miles 331 1 Cars Posted December 18, 2008 You need to swivel the short linkage by 90 degrees, But it;s the ideal time to put the gearlevel central and adjust the linkages to suit Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bensonmi 4 2 Cars Posted December 18, 2008 You need to swivel the short linkage by 90 degrees, But it;s the ideal time to put the gearlevel central and adjust the linkages to suit im gonna sound thick here again but what do you meen by swivelling 90 degrees?? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pug_ham 244 3 Cars Posted December 20, 2008 im gonna sound thick here again but what do you meen by swivelling 90 degrees?? One end threads onto the linkage bar & you can adjust the angle its sat at so it fits without any twist to give a smooth run on the plastic bushes. TBH after sufferiung the same problem as Anthony of burnt hands on the exhaust manifold due to a re-used linkage popping off I never re-use them now, its not worth it because they are bound to pop off at the worst place in the dead of night. The kits from MIles are well worth the money (& cheaper than Pug for replacement linkages afaik). Graham. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bensonmi 4 2 Cars Posted December 20, 2008 One end threads onto the linkage bar & you can adjust the angle its sat at so it fits without any twist to give a smooth run on the plastic bushes. TBH after sufferiung the same problem as Anthony of burnt hands on the exhaust manifold due to a re-used linkage popping off I never re-use them now, its not worth it because they are bound to pop off at the worst place in the dead of night. The kits from MIles are well worth the money (& cheaper than Pug for replacement linkages afaik). Graham. ah right i get you, im gonna try lockwire on the linkages for now and eventualy want to grt rose jointed,i cant c there ever being a problem then! but what are miles' 1s like? iv heard a few on here recomend them,any idea of price? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Miles 331 1 Cars Posted December 20, 2008 Have a look in the discount section, Forum Donator's get a discount on them But I supply either the direct replacement rods, or 2 types of Rose Jointed ones, Basically cheap and expensive one's Share this post Link to post Share on other sites