2 L Mi16 Confusion

[Paul_13 212 1 Cars]

Hi guys this is my first post on here,

 

Over the weekend i bought a steel block S16/MI16 engine, once i got it back and took the head off i found that one of the conrods had snapped on cylinder 3 i think.

Just want to know where i can pick up some relatively cheap pistons, con rods and crank. I didnt have time to take the sump off at the time so it is probably hiding more problems.

 

The head is fine looks like it has had new stem seals put in recently and was serviced well prior to the oil surge problem (i believe).

 

Another problem i have is trying to get me head around how to run the engine ECU wise. It does not have a distributor on the side of the head just a little black cylinder. i am planning to run the engine on weber 45's how would i do this? Change the cams to a 1.9 mi and fit a dizzy cap?

 

Many thanks, hope somewhere can help me with my problem

 

Paul

[welshpug 1,661]

depending on how cheap it was I'd take it back.

 

as for the management I'd rather run it on the 2.0 stuff than take the backwards step to carbs, they run so nice on MP5.1, run it like that till you can afford decent management and T/B's

 

(seeing the price of new carbs, I'd say throttle bodies were far far cheaper!)

Edited December 15, 2008 by welshpug

[Paul_13 212 1 Cars]

Hi,

 

Luckily it was only £50, to run it off the 2L managment would that involve changing the 8v wiring loom to the 16v wiring loom and ecu?

By carbs, you talking about R1 bike carbs? (i've heard of boggbros which look dead handy)

 

Cheers for the reply BTW

 

Paul

[welshpug 1,661]

by carbs I meant any carbs!

 

for £50 including the management that's a pretty good buy, but you'll have to spend a fair bit to make a good engine, a hell of a lot of potential though.

 

yes the management will need the wiring to be altered/joined to fit, but as has been documented on here a lot you only need the 4 wires to make it start and run, all the rest is gauges and dials.

[Paul_13 212 1 Cars]

Brilliant glad its only 4 wires to make it run, thought it was going to be ALOT harder than that. its a bit of a heap tho.

it didnt come with a ECU and half of the looms been cut after the plastic casing that runs across the bottom of the inlet manifold :S

 

The bores on the engine are quite smooth apart from a bit of a build up of scaley looking stuff just below the top face of the block (below where the piston rings travel up to) is this normal?

 

Haven't looked at the bottom end yet ran out of time in my mates garage.

And apart from a bit of surface rust on top of two of the valves it looks reasonably ok.

 

Whats the deal with the individual coil packs to the spark plugs how is this controlled?

 

Cheers!

 

Paul

[Miles 331 1 Cars]

It's a bit more than 4 wires really as you need the sensor's and depending what the engine came from a Oil temp sensor, Need to convert the Rev counter as well.

Bike carb;s are a waste of time and money, Most inlet manifold's have different length track's which is no good at all then you need to bend the linkages to make them fit,

Another idea is to run the more common 1.9 Mi16 Inlet/cam's and loom as they work even better than the std horrid black plastic Inlet manifold

 

Word of warning thou, don;t hone the liner's or fit new ring's as the Iron block engine's suffer badly from bore wear so doing this can render the block U/S unless you goto a larger bore

[Paul_13 212 1 Cars]

Ok cheers for info mate, very helpful as one of my mates was saying to get it honed (but thats a BIG no no),

is it possible to fit a 1.9 alloy head (using 1.9 inlet, cams etc) onto the steel block? or just swap the cams over

 

Thanks!

[woodsy 0]

Mate of mine ran a 2L mi16 with carbs and used the exhaust cam to drive the dizzy instead of the inlet.Worked though.