chrisj21 2 Posted December 14, 2008 First of all sorry to mods if this topic is in the wrong place, i wasn't sure whether to post in the works section or not. As a winter indoors project and really just a chance to learn about the engine and rebuilding one i thought i would start rebuilding a spare 1.9 8v engine i got earlier this year from a fellow member. Now i will just point out that i have no plans to use the engine yet in my car so this is really a learning curve of how one is assembled and generally refreshing and putting one together. I appreciate some may think this a pointless task but I'm eager to understand one more. So the engine i purchased as an unknown condition,not running (out of the car already) for £25 and an afternoon to collect it. engine engine 2 engine 3 I was then rather hasty and began to dismantle it and didn't really note where anything came from or whether it was broken or usable. Its now been sat in my damp shed for a good 5 months. So with not being able to do much to the 205 at the minute due to the weather and dark nights I've decided to give rebuilding a go I've never done anything at all like this and the most technical I've got is changing a clutch so I'm excited and slightly worried too. I've had a good read through other project inparticular Tom Fenton's turbo engine build which although mine doesn't involve a turbo his thread has some good pictures and info. I've had some prices for parts (bearings,shells etc) from QEP and although it may be wasted money in some ways with regards to whether i can actually assemble an engine or not im all good to go and im going to give it my best shot. Now for the first of many questions. The engine has been stood for a good while and there is some surface rust in the cylinders (like you get on brake disc's when been stood for a few days) and on the cams. Will these be ok to clean up, hone the cylinders a little to remove? ( I only found out yesterday what grinding in valves was all about so I'm lost with all this technical stuff) I'll get some pictures loaded tomorrow of the current state of the engine and hopefully some can advise. Thanks in advance for any help along the way and hopefully this thread will be of some use to others in the future. Chris Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hexhamstu 9 Posted December 14, 2008 im half planning to do the same with an mi16 engine i have, since i have never had an engine apart either, so bravo for giving it ago. only problem so far is i cant afford the rebuild kit! surface rust on the cams is ok within reason but not sure about the liners. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chrisj21 2 Posted December 14, 2008 I'm not sure i'd like to risk an MI rebuiled (although slightly jealous you have one)so bravo to you too. I dropped QEP an email and Matt (a member on here i think) got back to me the same afternoon with all the prices i will need so i will source my parts from there as and when i need them. Not knowing what the prices would be i was pleasently supprised at the costs. If i decide to use the engine i may go for some catcams if mine is past its best. As for the liners there is a section in this months ppc mag where they rebuild a saab engine and one of the cylinders has a score in it which they hone out, so im hoping with it just being surface it should be ok. Chris Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dcc 855 Posted December 14, 2008 I have recently rebuilt a mi16 engine, infact, it is still in the garage getting prepped to be refitted! the most important thing is when re assembling the engine, dont forget the extra washer above the water housing! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mikey S 29 1 Cars Posted December 14, 2008 the haynes is quite complete on engine rebuilds, so grab a copy. it also lists all of the torque settings that will be required for re-assembly. there not that bad to do tbh, just take your time and remember one golden rule: 'cleanliness is next to godliness' mike Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chrisj21 2 Posted December 15, 2008 Thanks for the advice. I have a haynes manual to work from so hopefully with that and this forum i shall be ok. Its the little bits that those who have done it before know and us beginners would never in a million years think off that count Chris Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
timb1046 1 Posted December 15, 2008 good luck, i will watch with interest and may give it a go myself, based on the outcome of your re-build Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chrisj21 2 Posted December 15, 2008 Nothing like a bit of added pressure. I've not had time tonight to get anymore pitures but i will make sure to do so tomorrow. I was thinking of rebuilding the cylinder head first. Chris Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mikey S 29 1 Cars Posted December 15, 2008 Nothing like a bit of added pressure. I've not had time tonight to get anymore pitures but i will make sure to do so tomorrow. I was thinking of rebuilding the cylinder head first. Chris head pressure test and skim, check and measure the valve guides (exhaust guides will probably be fubared), reface the valve seats and valves, replace the valve stem seals, and re shim the head upon completion. a decent engine shop will be able to sort all that for you. as for cost: pressure test £30 quid, skim £30 quid, guides are around £6 each, refacing around £4 per valve and seat, head shim around £30. well worth the money as the head will be as new. mike Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chrisj21 2 Posted December 17, 2008 A quick update with some pictures of the head. Before that can anyone tell me what of the above (last post) i can complete myself? Obviously pressure test and head skim needs to be done elsewhere. What about refacing the valves and seats? What does this involve? I think i can replace the guides and stem seals myself? Can i remove the valves before a pressure test or is this done before removal or after refitting? OK now for the pics. If anyone spots any potential problems please let me know. From what i can see the block just needs a good clean and i think will be fine, no cracks etc. click click Are the lager valves the exhaust? click Nothing special here and all looks fine. click click click Exhaust manifold side, Again just looks like it needs a good clean. click A view into the waterways of the block ( i think) looks abit like rust but seems to be crystallized when you look. hopefully the machine shop can clean this up somehow. click click Inlets look alto cleaner, to be expected i suppose. Valves look good from here. click click click click click Obviously the cam is out already here. This again looks pretty clean. click click Can anyone tell me what the above are? or the technical name for them. they came out when i tipped the head up. I assume they are just what the cam lobes push on to operate the valve? So the next step will be to disassemble the head (remove valves etc) so i no how too and hopefully aid me in reassemble. If on your advice i can do this? Thanks for reading and any advice appreciated. Chris Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SeanO'Connor 0 Posted December 17, 2008 They are called 'buckets and shims' they are what the cam pushes to open the valves, The shim can be changed if your valve clearence are out of tolerance. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chrisj21 2 Posted December 17, 2008 Thanks, i take it these come in different thicknesses to adjust the clearence's? Sorry for all the daft questions. Chris Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
grandos 16 Posted December 17, 2008 (edited) Yep you measure the clearance with the camshaft fitted with feeler gauges, then remove the whole lot again to measure the thickness of the shim. Replace with a thicker shim if the gap is too large or a thinner shim if the gap is too tight. Then recheck when its all fitted back together. (Pain in the backside!) Then when all is correct no more tapping! Edited December 17, 2008 by grandos Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
matty_gti 20 Posted December 17, 2008 Re: Rust on the liners, I had an engine sat for a while which had got water in it, once taken apart I found rust on the liners so I had them honed and there is the smallest amount of pitting but my engine builder said that it wouldnt cause any problems. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HERMAN 33 Posted December 18, 2008 Make sure that you remove the liners from the block and check for corosion on the seat were the liners meet the block. I cleaned and painted my engine block then when I got the seals for the liners and removed the liners I found that the block and liners were scrap. This corosion is caused by running the engine without antifreeze. Not only does anti freeze stop freezeing but it also prevents corrosion. Also try to keep parts in some in kind of order. EG. keep liners and pistons together in pairs and buckets and shims in order of removal. It will help help with the rebuild. Also try shopping around for your parts local motor factors (the type that garages use) can suppliy all of the parts that you need. You might find that you save your self some money. Have a look on GSF's web site, on there you can price up pretty much every thing. I would get my head gasket from a pug dealer though. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
woodsy 0 Posted December 18, 2008 I would also recommend genuine peugeot headbolts too. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
welshpug 1,666 Posted December 18, 2008 no need to buy head set and bolts form the dealers, you can get quality parts elsewhere for a lot less. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
shalmaneser 26 Posted December 23, 2008 (edited) just out of interest where would you suggest, and who manufactures good parts? I want to get a decent waterpump but pug want £70!!!!! im wary of buying s*ite aftermarket crap, but £70!!!!! thats silly ETA: also, bits were a lot cheaper for my 306, what gives? youd have thought pug wanted to get rid of their bloody 205 parts, the guy on the parts counter said the romsey peugeot (my second nearest dealer) had three XU5 waterpumps on the shelf! Edited December 23, 2008 by shalmaneser Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mattbenselin 0 Posted December 23, 2008 I just bought a load of stuff to re-fit my head after rebuilding it: Firstline water pump Dayen cam belt Payen head bolts Ajusa gasket set All from Stanwards in Bawtry (Doncaster) they were having clear out so got them all for about £100 not bad really. They all seem good quality stuff so what Peugeot sells is not always needed. Its worth ringing round for prices or asking on here as (including me) many members will have lots of spares and stuff lying around which we could sell. Another tip, label anything you remove, put bolts/nuts/washers/etc in assigned labelled tubs and take lots of photos as you go. Sounds nerdy but at any point if you are not sure what goes where etc you won't have to keep asking. Ps I have a brand new full head gasket set including everything you need if your interested? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
