Rupertfinch 6 Posted December 9, 2008 Wee bit of reassurance needed folks. Managed to refit all new front suspension the other night, but the car wouldn't fire, so jumped it from my Golf's battery. Recharged the battery and it fired up, but when I tried to restart it - nothing! So then. Dodgy battery? Or dodgey starter? I'm hoping battery. Mark Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
j_turnell 137 3 Cars Posted December 9, 2008 May not be anything to do with the starter. Do the electrics work fine? Best off going for a drive and checking the voltage with a multimeter, could be the alternator. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DrSarty 90 1 Cars Posted December 9, 2008 You need to clarify the symptoms. You say 'wouldn't fire', but does that mean it's spinning over fine but not catching? Does it turn over at all, i.e. limp over or just click or buzz? Good news is it's easy to check if your starter solenoid trigger wire is on tight and that the charging leads (alt to solenoid to batt) are firmly fitted and not damaged, same with your earth strap to your gearbox (which maybe you missed refitting), and then after that it's easy to check the battery and alternator with a decent tester that most garages, even trye places will have. Should get this wrapped up quite quickly. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kate205gti 4 Posted December 9, 2008 have you got a multi meter? put it across the terminals and see if the batterys lost charge, otherwise if its just clicking could well be a dodgy wire (gearbox earth or solenoid) or if its turning over and over then coil wiring? does it even try and start when you crank it? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mickie 3 Posted December 9, 2008 5 quid on it being the bettery Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SeanO'Connor 0 Posted December 9, 2008 5 quid on it being the bettery My semmingly good battery packed up this weekend, went to get some fuel, filled up tried to start again battery was flat!, luckily Halfrauds was over the road, so got a new one. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rupertfinch 6 Posted December 9, 2008 Sorry for not clarifying the situation (had a room full of year 11's desperately trying to complete their geography coursework! I studiously ignored their requests for a few moments while I battered out my post!). With a full charged battery, or with a jump start, the car fires first time. However after being driven (for only a few minutes as its SORN and I don't want it crushed) it would then refuse to start again. I can hear a clicking noise and the engine attempts that uuuugh chuug turn over, but then that's it! No majestic 1580cc roar. The thing that makes me wonder about the health of the battery is that the headlights are really quite bright even after I give it a few turns. This makes me think it might be ok. The only electrical thing that was disconnected in the suspension replacement was a little black wire that went to the top mount plate but It's been refitted in the same place. I wouldn't be 100% happy about the security of the positive terminal (basically the battery lead needs a new clamp) but that's it. Mark Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DrSarty 90 1 Cars Posted December 9, 2008 Firstly I'd keep your lights off as they're only eating perhaps what little is left in the battery, which as you mentioned has sat a while. Secondly, I bet it's the poor clamp on the pos terminal in conjunction with long periods of non use meaning the battery's weak anyway. With electrical circuits such as this that do relatively little, then bust a gonad to give everything, it's either one thing outright that's FUBAR'd or a collection of little things joining together to make it seem big. I'd recommend a new battery with decent terminal clamps, all greased up naturally, and providing all other cables and earth points are OK, she'll either work perfectly or you will have narrowed it down to a cack starter. If we then find it's the starter (or was also), then that's fiddly as you know (inlet off perhaps), but then it's only 3 bolts and two cables. If it's still cack at restarting then it's your alternator which can also be fiddly due to the large bolt, but maybe that's only awkward on an Mi? BUT, a simple garage test should've ruled out the alternator in the first place. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rom 0 Posted December 9, 2008 (edited) A battery only needs 1 faulty cell to have trouble starting. Yet it will still power everything else fine. Starting is its hardest job, drawing all of its power. They can be tested if you can get it to Lucas , Halfrauds etc. Not sure if they will charge for it though. Buts its a pretty safe bets its the battery. As DrS said, with nice connections. Loose battery cables can cause no end of intermitant problems. If its starting fine everytime with a jump, thats pretty much confirming the starter is ok. Edited December 9, 2008 by Rom Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DrSarty 90 1 Cars Posted December 9, 2008 If its starting fine everytime with a jump, thats pretty much confirming the starter is ok. Might be ok cold, but could be suffering heat soak. We won't know until he tries hot & cold starts. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rupertfinch 6 Posted December 9, 2008 You see, I'm hoping it is the battery as I really can't be arsed taking off the inlet manifold - although I really should have a go at this. Actually even the thought of taking off the throttle body scared me last night, so I left it in place. So much for the big carb clean the hell out of everything evening I had planned. I did manage to Brasso the screw on the TB which was nice! Bet I'll be fiddling with it for hours to get the idle right again. Can I beg one more 'thick' question. Anyone fitted a new battery terminal clamp before? Apologies for my mechanical/electrical ineptness. I feckin hate wires! Off to Halfrauds! Nah, bugger it. I'll wait to go to a proper factors in the afternoon. Might get discount. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rom 0 Posted December 9, 2008 The only electrical thing that was disconnected in the suspension replacement was a little black wire that went to the top mount plate but It's been refitted in the same place. Mark As i learnt the other day...this is for the brake pad warning wire. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rom 0 Posted December 9, 2008 You can get different kinds of clamps. Easiest to get is one that has bolts to hold the wires in position. So you dont need any special tools, just trim the insulation back, slide it in a hole and do the bolt / allen key / whatever up. Normally have a few holes, of varying sizes. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DrSarty 90 1 Cars Posted December 9, 2008 Note that there are negative and positive posts, marked 'P' or '+' and 'N' or '-'. Sorry to state the obvious markings, but at least there's no room for misinterpretation. The reason for this is the battery posts are different sizes; so either buy a pair or make sure you buy the correct one. As stated by Rom: piss easy job with the uber common type. It's blatantly obvious what you do. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rupertfinch 6 Posted December 9, 2008 Cool, only ask this rather stupid question as the one that is on the positive lead appears to have been soldered on. However I really should have typed it into google first as pretty much every terminal clamp under the sun is the 'screw in wire' variety. Sarty - never knew that the terminal posts were different sizes - you learn something new every day Many thanks gentlemen by the way Rom love the line 'Normally have a few holes, of varying sizes' - I'm trying desperately not to add smut! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
