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yorkshirekowboy

Stub Axle Help.

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yorkshirekowboy

right,

 

im about to insert my stub axle in my trailing arm, but they are splined as you all will know, now whats the easest way of matching them up to the splines in the arm? is it using the allen at the back of stub, btu the stub axle on mine i quite tight when inserted and hard to turn. i have noticed on my stub axle a couple of the splines are bent and a bit damaged, whould these straighten out whe i knock it in?

 

 

thanks

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Jrod

I just hammer them straight in, the force should line them up.

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yorkshirekowboy

thanks, gather it dont matter where the notch in the stub axle for nut goes then?

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Jrod

The notch for locking the hub nut? No.

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yorkshirekowboy
The notch for locking the hub nut? No.

 

cheers mate, hammered them in as you said, they went in with some force but i did try and line them up, so all is well, i surpose they wouldnt go in if they wernt matched up.

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Cameron

Yeah they're a bit of a tight fit, although every time I've done it you can push them in and line the splines up by hand / with an allen key. Might be an idea to go over the splines with a wire brush next time, and stick some anti-seize on them or something.

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yorkshirekowboy
Yeah they're a bit of a tight fit, although every time I've done it you can push them in and line the splines up by hand / with an allen key. Might be an idea to go over the splines with a wire brush next time, and stick some anti-seize on them or something.

 

 

yeah did that greased them up, then knocked them in, they gone in ok, i used a allen ket on one becasue the other one allen socket on the stub was deformed, so just knocked it in, i heard that the hub nut when tightened, pushes the stub in more into the arm so it sieats?

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pug_ham

Unless you have a press to get the stub axle in you are suppose to torque the hubnut up to 220lbft iirc initally to make sure it is fully home when they are first fitted to the radius arm & then the usual hubnut torque of 180lbft & then hit the back of the stub axle with a soft drift to make sure its seated fully home.

 

If the splines aren't lined up it won't go into the radius arm fully, tbh the allen key is misleading because once the stub axles are lined up with the splines & aligned, it shouldn't turn.

 

Graham.

Edited by pugtorque

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yorkshirekowboy
Unless you have a press to get the stub axle in you are suppose to torque the hubnut up to 220lbft iirc initally to make sure it is fully home when they are first fitted to the radius arm & then the usual hubnut torque of 180lbft & then hit the back of the stub axle with a soft drift to make sure its seated fully home.

 

If the splines aren't lined up it won't go into the radius arm fully, tbh the allen key is misleading because once the stub axles are lined up with the splines & aligned, it shouldn't turn.

 

Graham.

ace thanks fella, well its ok then, as i was thinking if the splines werent lined up, they wouldnt go in at all would they? what did you mean above about the allen key bit? u say "stub axles are lined up with the splines & alinged, it shouldn't." it shouldnt what? sorry if im being thick :)

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pug_ham
ace thanks fella, well its ok then, as i was thinking if the splines werent lined up, they wouldnt go in at all would they?

They'd go in but only as far as the splines hitting the back of the radius arm.

 

what did you mean above about the allen key bit? u say "stub axles are lined up with the splines & alinged, it shouldn't." it shouldnt what? sorry if im being thick :rolleyes:

When the splines are aligned the stub axle shouldn't turn in the radius arm.

 

The splines should locate them solidly in the arm.

 

Graham.

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Stu

As above, i also found heating the casting up helped A LOT with re-inserting them, i was able to get the pin to drop in till the splines touched, then using the allen key hole rotated the stub axle till it started to go in, and drove it home.

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