nick9one1 2 Posted November 15, 2008 Going to start wiring in the loom this morning but I just want to make sure I'm cutting and joining the right wires before I start. Does the picture attached look correct? In other guides I've read on here everyone refers to round plugs from the new loom, which mine doesnt have? but i guess this is just because the engine is from a citroen? so.. Chop of the ecu plug and engine loom after the 2 brown multiplugs under the dash trying to save as much wire as possible. Wiring it into the big connector that comes off the new loom near the new ecu plug. I also have another smaller loom.. does this just get wired into the same 2 brown plugs? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nick9one1 2 Posted November 15, 2008 (edited) small update, I have labeled all the 205 wires after the brown plugs on picture one and started trying to label the new looms wires from lists and diagrams I have found on here. But i have a slight problem.. the engine is a XU10J4R from a citroen and only a few of the wires from gti6 wiring diagrams correspond to ones I have.. so does anyone have a XU10J4R wiring diagram?? Edited November 15, 2008 by nick9one1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nick9one1 2 Posted November 15, 2008 (edited) right i have wire codes from the ecu side multi plug from the citroen loom. 18 wires 122A White 122B White BB8 Thick blue 426 Green 1234 Green 822 Green 1223 Green joins from 1220 Red and 1227 White CC2B Grey joins from CC2L Blue and CC2K Grey 120 Thick White 1212 Green 8055 White 141 White 820 Red 821 White 1360 Green 1232 Red 140 Red B14A Thick yellow The other smaller part of the loom i have has all the plugs for water temp, alternator etc 14 wires in total *B1*808 white *31*808 *G4*C02? *G4*8081 white *E9*415 *B0*405 red *B0*401 *E9*1070 green *F1*1010 thick green well thats most of them anyway! lol Edited November 15, 2008 by nick9one1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nick9one1 2 Posted November 16, 2008 update again! Ive done hours and hours of searching, and managed to find some info. Ive compared my numbers to good posts on the gti-6 wiring diagrams, and the vts but no avail! Then I started thinking I had a multiplex ecu, but I have too many wires for that. Then I came across pinout diagrams for the ecu. a fantastic post by gti-si led me onto this gti-si's pinout diagram now the only problem I may have if this is not the same as the ecu I have. are all xu10j4rs and xu10j4r ecus, or at least the important pins the same? also is there a surefire way I can tell what car my engine is from? ECU number/code, engine number etc? thanks! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
welshpug 1,657 Posted November 16, 2008 (edited) R and RS use different ECU's, J4RS uses Magnetti Marelli, the 10J4R uses Bosch AFAIK (same common 3 row ecu plug, but that's about as close as it gets I believe) which wires are you struggling to find? I find the easiest way to trace them if you have no info is to fit the loom to the engine, at least you know then what each sensor is, and you can work backwards to the Multiplugs. Which Citroen did this engine come from? Xsara, XM or Xantia? Edited November 16, 2008 by welshpug Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nick9one1 2 Posted November 16, 2008 I think It came from a xsara (not sure) as the seller didnt know. Someone has told me they think the ecu looks like a late xsara one going by the 96x prefix Im struggling to find any wires! the only ones from gti6/vts lists that match are antistart. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nick9one1 2 Posted November 16, 2008 well I have sourced wiring diagrams for a '96 xantia which I now believe it to be! but im a bit baffled reading them! I understand that to identify the part you read the for digit code next to it, e.g. 1203 is the inertia switch and wires 1203 & CC2K (which becomes CC2N once it reaches the ecu) come from it. Is this right?? But I have no idea which wires I need to locate to mate to my 205 loom?? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
welshpug 1,657 Posted November 16, 2008 looks about right, that wire from the inertia switch you would take the fuel pump feed from (that's what it does in the original vehicle) here's a better link for the components. http://peugeot.mainspot.net/wiringall/comp.shtml basically permanent live you need to take from the battery positive, i.e the engine bay shunt box (BB10 on the Xantia wiring diagram) not 100% bu it looks like the ECU does all the switching of the Relay in that loom not just the fuel pump. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nick9one1 2 Posted November 17, 2008 (edited) I have just about managed to complete my wire list! so far.. 122B White shuntbox to relay BB8 Thick blue shuntbox to relay 120 Thick White shuntbox to relay B14A Thick yellow ecu to maxi fuse unit? 1360 Green vehicle speed sensor to instrument panel / ecu 1232 Red Canister bleed electrovalve 1223 Green Canister bleed electrovalve to throttle housing element / relay 122A White oxygen sensor (front) lambda? 1234 Green AC 8055 White AC 426 Green diag connector 141 White diag connector 142 green diag connector 140 Red diag connector CC2B Grey 820 Red 821 White 822 green the rest don't seem to be on the diagram? (ive made it colourful so its easy to see the wires! I think the loom i have still has the inertia switch? it looks like a block with a big rubber button on top that rattles? Edited November 17, 2008 by nick9one1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
M@tt 77 Posted November 17, 2008 yep thats the inertia switch. Chop it off and join the 2 wires, thats what i did on mine. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nick9one1 2 Posted November 17, 2008 with the tachymetric relay having to come out with the old loom so is it not safer to keep the inertia switch and just run the fuel pump from it? does the rest of the wiring look ok so far? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pug_ham 244 3 Cars Posted November 20, 2008 The important number on the ecu you need to look at to find out what car your ecu came from is the long on above the barcode; 0 261 204 066. From a quick look on ATP electronics website its from a Xantia 2 litre 16 Valve 95 on 2 Bosch MP5.1.1 0 261 204 066. I have just about managed to complete my wire list! so far.. 122B White shuntbox to relay BB8 Thick blue shuntbox to relay 120 Thick White shuntbox to relay B14A Thick yellow ecu to maxi fuse unit? 1360 Green vehicle speed sensor to instrument panel / ecu 1232 Red Canister bleed electrovalve 1223 Green Canister bleed electrovalve to throttle housing element / relay 122A White oxygen sensor (front) lambda? 1234 Green AC 8055 White AC 426 Green diag connector 141 White diag connector 142 green diag connector 140 Red diag connector CC2B Grey 820 Red 821 White 822 green Your loom could have all the wires that need to go to the shunt box already fitted to a suitable connector, I know the ones on the 405 MM8P looms I have here do. Looking on my autodata wiring diagram you shouldn't need to do much to wire it in but looking at your diagrams you could be connecting things up incorrectly. Ideally you need to go over your donor loom with a multimeter to check if the diagrams you have match up with the wires because the diagrams you've posted up differ to my Autodata. I think you need to find the wire from pin 9 of the double injection relay for the fuel pump (wire # 120), on autodata it looks like the inertia switch only fits between the ignition switched live & the double relay (pin #2), cutting power to the relay completely when it activates & not inline for the fuel pump like on the GTi-6 loom. You also need the ignition switched 12v to run on to the VSS but your loom should have that in already. I'd check before you start any cutting into the loom find the VSS plug & pin it out to the ecu. (pin 1; ignition switched 12v, pin 2; earth & pin 3; ecu plug). Tacho feed is from pin 6 on the ecu (wire# 426/4260). with the tachymetric relay having to come out with the old loom so is it not safer to keep the inertia switch and just run the fuel pump from it? does the rest of the wiring look ok so far? The wiring loom does have its own type of tachymetric relay in the double injection relay so imo there isn't really a need for the inertia switch. Also they have been known to fail causing a sudden loss of power which could be dangerous. Graham. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nick9one1 2 Posted November 22, 2008 thanks pugtorque. Since I last posted I have also attained a copy of autodata, although its very similar to my previous diagram (Haynes) I have coloured it up so its easy to understand again! lol are you sure your looking at the correct car on your copy? its the Xantia 2.0 16v XU10J4R MP5.1.1 135bhp 95-97 the inertia switch is the same in this diagram as the haynes except the ecu doesnt take a feed from it. From my interpretation when the switch is activated it cuts of the fuel pump and ignition coil via the relay. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nick9one1 2 Posted November 22, 2008 right just been out with the multimeter, its bloody cold! anyway.. so far wire 120 from fuel pump goes to pin 9 on relay >>>> fuel pump 76 wire 122B goes to pin 6 on relay >>>> 122A wire 122A goes to front oxygen sensor >>>> 122B wire BB8 goes to pins 8,10, 11 on relay >>>> constant 12v wire B14A goes to pin 18 on ecu >>>> constant 12V Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nick9one1 2 Posted November 22, 2008 (edited) wire CC2 goes to relay 14 & inertia pin 1 >>>> ignition 12v inertia pin 3 connects to relay 2 when the inertia switch is activated (i.e. upside down) it breaks the connection between its 2 wires Edited November 22, 2008 by nick9one1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pug_ham 244 3 Cars Posted November 24, 2008 All looks good in your latest posts. are you sure your looking at the correct car on your copy? its the Xantia 2.0 16v XU10J4R MP5.1.1 135bhp 95-97 Positive, I checked it several times (& again just now), the diagram is exactly the same as you have posted in your reply; the inertia switch is the same in this diagram as the haynes except the ecu doesnt take a feed from it. From my interpretation when the switch is activated it cuts of the fuel pump and ignition coil via the relay. Look at the diagram you posted above, the inertia switch is item # S39 which you've marked & the cuts power to the double injection relay pin 2 which in turn cuts power to the fuel pump & coil pack via the relay. Graham. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nick9one1 2 Posted December 2, 2008 (edited) well im nearly there! turned her over for the first time today Edited December 2, 2008 by nick9one1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
