Veero 1 Posted November 6, 2008 I know a few people on here have been asking how I've got on with this and today I had some luck. My intial bracket to fit the Mi16 TPS to the '6 TB was a bit of a bodge if I'm honest, and where it sits pushed up against the top rad hose meant it wasn't clicking to switch it to idle. So took the TB off, made a new bracket (and I took photos) so now it works perfectly. Went to start it today and it just turns over. Spent ages chasing what I thought were electrical gremlins round to no avail and thought about the cap and arm. Had a new set so thought I would just give it a go. Turns out the king lead connector inside the cap was annihilated, just a crusty piece of carbon so with a new cap and arm it fired straight up The fuelling is a bit rich (since I was playing with it before) but practically straight from the off it idles at just under a 1000 revs, nice and stable after an initial peak at around 2k it then drops slowly and settles at 1k. GTi6 TB/inlet sound is a nice deep woooosh too. However after a few minutes of running it started chugging again, nowhere near as the near-stalling it used to but it's still there. Will investigate further in the light tomorrow. Anyway it's a hell of a lot better than it was. Ill try and sort out the fuelling tomorrow, maybe that will make it idle happier. One other thing though, there is now a very loud tapping (unrelated I assume) coming from the head which is a bit concerning Sounds too loud to be an injector, I reckon it's a bucket. Could it be just a bucket not re-pressurising properly (car has been sat for around a year without use but has just had an oil change) and is it likely to sort itself out after a proper warm up or drive?? Got me quite worried about it So when I get this complete I will write a small guide. If I had the time I would have sorted this weeks ago, proper easy job. If I can do it anyone can Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mr_exe 1 Posted November 6, 2008 I shall follow this with interest, and would love to see some pictures, though at the moment i'm thinking along the line of VAG throttle body route Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jackherer 543 Posted November 6, 2008 Hopefully the chugging is down to adjustments you've made trying to fix the problem earlier, it might just need the idle mixture setting properly, if everything is working right you should be able to set it pretty well by ear. Very interested in seeing pics of the TPS bracket as I'm fitting one of these myself soon. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jackherer 543 Posted November 6, 2008 I shall follow this with interest, and would love to see some pictures, though at the moment i'm thinking along the line of VAG throttle body route I think the biggest problem with either conversion is the TPS bracket and a similar solution will probably work on both. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Veero 1 Posted November 7, 2008 Don't get too excited it's just a very simple L-bracket, but yes provided I get some time this arvo I will knock up a quick description with piccies. As for the tapping anyone have any ideas? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Veero 1 Posted November 7, 2008 Right further tinkering, same old problem. The ICV is still sticking wide open as it did before. However with it unplugged the engine will start on part throttle and then after a few seconds once it's going you can back off the throttle and it will idle virtually spot on 1k revs, no hiccupping and not stalling, I'm so chuffed Trying to sort out the ICV issue which I will search other threads for clues... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jackherer 543 Posted November 7, 2008 As for the tapping anyone have any ideas? Exhaust manifold blowing? Might be worth getting someone to hold a rag over the tailpipe to see if it forces any gasses out of the mani. Or you might be right about the tappet in which case it will probably quieten with use, without hearing it all we can do is guess really. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Veero 1 Posted November 7, 2008 Exhaust manifold blowing? Might be worth getting someone to hold a rag over the tailpipe to see if it forces any gasses out of the mani. Or you might be right about the tappet in which case it will probably quieten with use, without hearing it all we can do is guess really. Not the manifold, no fumes are even hinting at coming off the exhaust manifold. It sounds like it's coming from the head and coming from the frontal area, so guessing inlet cam bucket(s). With running the engine for only a few minutes today it quietened down, I guess a full run once it's all set will probably sort it, otherwise yes it's only speculation. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Veero 1 Posted November 7, 2008 Right think I've found the problem, but now it's too dark to see. I tested the TPS before I put it on the TB and it was fine with the resistances varying with throttle action. Pins 1-2 tended to infinity from 0 as you open the throttle and pins 2-3 tended to 0 from infinity as per the instructions on the 2-row diagnostics manual. Now it's fitted and in position I can't get a reading across pins 1-2 so the resistance stays infinite whereas pins 2-3 tend to 0 as they should. As you open the throttle from closed it clicks, as it does when you close it from open, I thought that was the important point at which the resistances start to vary. I checked the continuity to the ECU plug and the connections along the wiring are fine. So it looks like the TPS is shot somehow... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rom 0 Posted November 7, 2008 Hi mate Thanks for the update. Buckets can take a while to fill if they have drained. And often need more than just idling to fill them. Nothing serious, just some more revs to get them filled. Keep it coming, its certainly something id like to do if it all pans out for you Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Veero 1 Posted November 11, 2008 Gah curses! New working TPS and it idles fine at 1k, only it's bloody chugging again. After all this it's exactly the fecking same as it was before only this time the idle is more stable. Guess my Mi TB was ok. If you flap the TB wide open the revs don't pick up it just sits there spluttering and not sounding healthy at all, if you open it more gently it revs freely as it should. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
welshpug 1,661 Posted November 11, 2008 this is a 1.9 mi16 right? may be a sticky AFM, or a loose one. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Veero 1 Posted November 11, 2008 Yeah 1.9 Mi, I've another AFM I can try, will have a look at first light. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Miles 331 1 Cars Posted November 11, 2008 chugging i;ve found always to be the AFM, Even 2 or 3 S/H in a row all have done the same as they are all worn out now more or less, so I;d say a new one is needed but at the cost of them it's more cost effective to buy a new ECU Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Veero 1 Posted November 11, 2008 Ah balls, if the other one's the same is it worth having a go at re-tracking? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
boldy205 75 Posted November 11, 2008 Hi Veero, sorry no technical help, but glad to hear your sorting your problems with the setup. Matt Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KRISKARRERA 2 1 Cars Posted November 12, 2008 Hmmm the plot thickens. I've re-tracked my AFM and found no improvement. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
luggy 13 Posted November 12, 2008 (edited) Gah curses! New working TPS and it idles fine at 1k, only it's bloody chugging again. When you mean chugging do you mean running on 2/3 cylinders? When I bought the donor car which was a runner I put new plugs, leads, cap and rotor to ensure that everything ignition wise was know good before the rebuild right? Wrong. When trying to start it kept on running on 3/2 cyls, fuel filter was new, checked injector volumes were fine. 1 plug was faulty , it had only done about 60 miles! Edited November 12, 2008 by luggy Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
VisaGTi16v 1 Posted November 12, 2008 Ive had trouble with my AFM connector before, had to clean up the tabs on the plug and the afm itself and its run perfect ever since although strangely chugged real bad in another mi when a friend borrowed it to try and solve a issue with his! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Veero 1 Posted November 12, 2008 (edited) Right DIY re-tracked another AFM and it runs a lot better. Not chugging (ie chug-chug-chug-chug) so much anymore just an occasional misfire on idle, (ie prrrrrrrrr-pop-prrrrrrrrrrrrrrr-pop-pop-prrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr etc). I'd say it's nearly there. It is a distinctly different sounds to when it's on part throttle revs which sound perfect, no missing at all better than it ever was before. In fact it's close enough that I'm almost not bothered anymore. Gonna get it up to shape for the MOT so thought I'd test the lights, turned on sidelights, only 1 side came on, dipped beam only 1 came on. So as I stood there cursing French electrics the other side came on bloody Pugs. It's got a brand new cap and arm, probably not a bad idea to do plugs and leads too I suppose. Worth changing a coil even though it seems to work? Edit: Yeah luggy chugging as in sounding like it's running on 3 cylinders for a good proportion of the time. Edited November 12, 2008 by Veero Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Banjo 1 Posted November 12, 2008 Hey dude, how have I never seen this around? I've got a black gti6, dont spose you've got any spare cyclone wheels about? Only need one.. Cheers. Banj. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Alan_M 66 1 Cars Posted November 12, 2008 Right DIY re-tracked another AFM and it runs a lot better. Not chugging (ie chug-chug-chug-chug) so much anymore just an occasional misfire on idle, (ie prrrrrrrrr-pop-prrrrrrrrrrrrrrr-pop-pop-prrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr etc). I'd say it's nearly there. It is a distinctly different sounds to when it's on part throttle revs which sound perfect, no missing at all better than it ever was before. In fact it's close enough that I'm almost not bothered anymore. Gonna get it up to shape for the MOT so thought I'd test the lights, turned on sidelights, only 1 side came on, dipped beam only 1 came on. So as I stood there cursing French electrics the other side came on bloody Pugs. It's got a brand new cap and arm, probably not a bad idea to do plugs and leads too I suppose. Worth changing a coil even though it seems to work? Edit: Yeah luggy chugging as in sounding like it's running on 3 cylinders for a good proportion of the time. Mine sounds chuggy too, but more because of the cams..... Any info on how to retrack an AFM though? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Veero 1 Posted November 12, 2008 Mine sounds chuggy too, but more because of the cams..... Any info on how to retrack an AFM though? Hate to coin a phrase but do a search, that's where I found it. Basically the guide I used involved taking the plastic housing off the top, removing the arm, removing the screws that hold the PCB with the track on and ovalising the holes to slide the whole PCB about 1/4 -> 1/2mm up so the arm slides on a new bit of track. I copied the contents of the thread into a word doc, PM me if you want it. Hey dude, how have I never seen this around? I've got a black gti6, dont spose you've got any spare cyclone wheels about? Only need one.. Cheers. Banj. Errr random. I'm not selling any Cyclones... You've probably never seen it around unless you've driven past my house. It's been in Winchester for a year and then sat on my drive since about June. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites