Ricardo 0 Posted November 1, 2008 Hi After removing the rear beam the O.S. bump stop fell down! Thought it was the rubber perished but it's the stud/mount that's rusted through! Thought I'de check the other one and that fell off in my hand! God knows how they stayed up there. Can I drill through to re-tap the threads? I can't see there being enough room to get a nut on top if replacements have a loose nut on them. The photo also shows the top half of the 'sandwich' mount. Now I know where the bumping was coming from! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pug_ham 244 3 Cars Posted November 1, 2008 If you have access to a welder then clean the head of the old bolt off & tack a spare bolt onto it so you can remove it otherwise you risk rounding off what left (if it isn't already) & possibly shearing the bolt off. Thats how I got mine out. Whether its worth getting some new ones is up to you but they can cause an MOT fail if your tester is especially eagle eyed. If you get new ones don't botherwith the ones on ebay, they are cheaper from Pug dorect. Graham. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ricardo 0 Posted November 1, 2008 Sorry Graham I'm a bit confused! The bump stop mount thread has broken flush with the chassis. Don't seem to be able to get to the top. Is it a 'tacked' on nut in the box section or a rusted in place nut? Sorry if I sound a bit .......?.....stupid.....Really all I need to know is ... Is the bump stop mounting thread screwed into the chassis (captive/tacked nut) or is there a gap in the box section for a nut to get thru to screw onto the mount thread? Cheers Richard Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mickie 3 Posted November 1, 2008 (edited) its a captive nut, its apart of the chassis, what he is saying is to weld a bolt to the bolt thats rusted in that captive nut/chassis and then unscrew it.. same things happened to mine on both sides, i was thinking of stud extractors or drill it out, re tapping it Edited November 1, 2008 by mickie Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CosKev 16 Posted November 1, 2008 Its a captive/tacked nut that the bolt screws into. Its not held on with alot of anything either I just hammered mine into the void above Then used a Rivnut in the hole Easy to do if you have got a Rivnut tool,if you know anyone that builds kit cars they will have one. If not you can make up a tool to clamp the rivnut DIY style!!!! http://www.x-eng.co.uk/rivnut.asp Rivnuts on E-Bay: http://shop.ebay.co.uk/?_from=R40&_trk...amp;_nkw=rivnut Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ricardo 0 Posted November 1, 2008 Cheers guys. I'll try my stud extractors on it. If that doesn't work I'll drill em out and might retap, but those rivnuts look like the dogs nuts! By the way what are your thoughts on using a rigid mount instead of the 'sandwich' mount and leaving the forward rubber mount as is? Thanks again. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CosKev 16 Posted November 1, 2008 (edited) By the way what are your thoughts on using a rigid mount instead of the 'sandwich' mount and leaving the forward rubber mount as is? Thanks again. Is it road or track car??????? I've used rubber GrpN mounts on mine,bit stiffer than standard but still some damping. Solid(GrpA)will give you more noise/vibration etc. I would change the front beam mounts while beam is off,these were mine Right little barstewards to remove Edited November 1, 2008 by CosKev Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
M@tt 77 Posted November 1, 2008 (edited) when i rebuilt my beam i found the same as you but trying to drill and tap properly underneath the car was a complete pain so all i did was with the new bump stop i took the metal cup that the rubber parts sit in and drilled 2 small holes through it and into the chassis and used 2 self tapping screws to hold the cups in place i then refitted the rubber bumps stops into the cups. They've held up fine in the 3 years or so the cars been on the road and both are still there. Alot quicker/easier than drilling and retapping in my experience HTH Edited November 1, 2008 by M@tt Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ricardo 0 Posted November 1, 2008 Yeah think I might as well change all mounts for rigid thou it isn't a track car. As for drilling and tapping, I'm used to it and there is loads of room under the car at the moment! But maybe not having the right taps I like the sound of selftappers. Thanks again chaps. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ricardo 0 Posted November 2, 2008 Removed one and drilled and tapped the other! Cleaned the remains up and ground 2 flats Then got the 'Moleys' on and out it came, spray in/out/in/out spray was it tight tho! Original threads are good Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ricardo 0 Posted November 2, 2008 Ground the other side flush after the bolt snapped Luckily could tell wot thread it was after the first one came out. So drilled and tapped. As for the mounts... Well the beam/bearings/shaft is total fuber'd! I've put picks on other post! Thanks again chaps. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chris H 10 Posted November 2, 2008 On one of my 205 rally cars i bonded the bump stop cups onto the shell using heavy duty2 part adhesive and they have been fine so far...much easier than drilling, welding etc.....i guess some araldite may do the job. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ricardo 0 Posted November 2, 2008 I like your thinking! Not sure the MOT guys would like it but they never even spotted the split sandwich mounts so... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Atari Boy 11 Posted November 3, 2008 I may have this issue soon. Has anyone seen this version of the Rivnut tool? Is it any good? ebay link Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Atari Boy 11 Posted November 3, 2008 Sorry, one last question. What size is the thread on the bump stop? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ricardo 0 Posted November 3, 2008 Sorry, one last question. What size is the thread on the bump stop? M8 x 1.25 Nice standard ISO thread!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Atari Boy 11 Posted November 3, 2008 Great, thanks. Jonny Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ricardo 0 Posted November 3, 2008 I may have this issue soon.Has anyone seen this version of the Rivnut tool? Is it any good? ebay link Looks like an excellent tool, for smaller bolt threads, maybe use loads of copperslip or chestertons anti seize on the wedges. How thick could you insert these in? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
watford1gti 0 Posted November 21, 2008 i had this issue a while ago, i couldnt tap one of them so i just ground it off, i made a plate at work to cover the square hole with a nut welded onto it, welded the square plate on and hey presto a bit of paint good as new. matty Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
2052006 10 Posted November 21, 2008 I had to do this the other day. Depending how much head is left on the bolt and how corroded it is, you may be able to use a hammer and chisel to try and "undo" it - worked for me anyway when the head was too corroded to get a socket on it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ricardo 0 Posted November 21, 2008 I had to do this the other day. Depending how much head is left on the bolt and how corroded it is, you may be able to use a hammer and chisel to try and "undo" it - worked for me anyway when the head was too corroded to get a socket on it. Already removed cheers, see post#10 2/11/08 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
