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nick9one1

Engine Rebuild, Aligning Crank And Camshaft

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nick9one1

Ive had a look in the haynes manual for the locking points for the crank and camshaft but cant find them anywhere. when the crank is lined up with the point I think is correct all the pistons are dead level.

 

06102008062copymk3.th.jpgthpix.gif 06102008063sr7.th.jpgthpix.gif

 

and the camshaft

 

06102008064sz3.th.jpgthpix.gif

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welshpug

page 54, Section 25 and picture 25.5.

 

also page 59, picture 31.11 (which you;ve already got, but the bolt's shank looks a bit small, use a smooth rod/drill bit/proper locking tool)

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nick9one1

thanks welshpug, but my haynes doesnt seem to have page numbers? only sections.

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welshpug

DOH! must be a service and repair manual not a Workshop manual.

 

in which case...

 

2B4, Section 4, notably Paragraph 10 :)

Edited by welshpug

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pug_ham

When the crank timing pin is in the right placve the pistons are all dead level in the bores.

 

I checked this when I was swapping a vernier pulley just to see if I could turnthe cam safely with the crank liocked, you can.

 

Graham.

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nick9one1

fantastic , found it! thanks.

 

something else I've noticed is the length of the head bolts. Ive bought a new set which are all the same size. but on tightening them I've noticed that the timing belt side rear bolt hole is too short buy about an inch or two? I cant understand how the old bolts would have fitted unless one was shorter?

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welshpug

stop now!! the one above the water pump has a spacer, without the spacer you can punch a hole into the waterway!

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pug_ham

They all have spacers but the one above the water pump has an additional ~20mm spacer that isn't fitted anywhere else.

 

Without it when you tighten the headbolt above it down (#8) it'll puncture the block on the water pump aperture causing a leak & a dead block or use of chemical metla is needed to fix it, however permanenet.

 

Graham.

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