Head Bolt Tightening

[davey sprocket 14]

Re-torquing the head bolts, as per Haynes manual, all going fine but there's no way I'm going to get to 300 degrees!!!

Think my shoulder will pop out of its socket if the torx bit doesn't snap!

 

I've done them all to 90 deg of the third stage, so at least I know they're all even. I'll be lucky to get even another 90 deg out of them!!

 

Have done some searching on here this evening and discovered other suggestions for methods of tightening. Which I may well go with as the 300deg does seem pretty horrendous!

 

There's two things I can see I've done wrong at this stage....

 

1. I didn't put any grease under the bolt heads as the bolts (new ones) were slightly oily out of the box.

Should I consider undoing all of the bolts (in sequence obviously) and putting some copper grease under the heads before having another go??

 

2. Its a long time since I took the head off the car and putting the spacers/ washers on the new bolts, I only found 9 washers and the one thick spacer to go back on. This sounded right from the Haynes book of gobbledygook, but as soon as I started to tighten the bolts, I realised the bolt above the water pump was tightening but the spacer was still loose. (with me so far?) A search around turned up the tenth washer in all the gunge on the steering crossmember. My question is....how delicate is the ally under the bolt hole...should I be expecting problems here???

[jeremy 70]

1. Yes you can do the head bolts up by 300 degrees it is hard work but possible. I found it best by doing each bolt by 45 degrees in sequence until I achieved the full 300 degrees.

 

2. Yo may have gone through a water way as this is the reason the spacer is provided, how much gap is/was left between the top of the head bolt and the spacer?

[davey sprocket 14]

2. Yo may have gone through a water way as this is the reason the spacer is provided, how much gap is/was left between the top of the head bolt and the spacer?

 

Yeah, I realise the possible consequences but I only tightened it about a quarter turn before realising something was amiss. I guess only time will tell on this one??

I didn't check the gap, I undid it as soon as I realised it was tightening down on something other than the spacer, which was presumably the bottom of the hole??

 

 

I wish the Haynes book said there should be a washer and a spacer on this bolt. It doesn't even say which bolt it is, just that its the one at the cam pulley end.

[large 33]

you need to get some water into the engine and see if you have cracked the block . As for tightening the head bolts have a look at pumaracing.com a realy good guide on what to do.

[DamirGTI 342]

Relaxed method of tightening (never failed me yet !) :

 

1. stage - 30Nm

2. stage - 55Nm

3. stage - loosen each bolt 1/8th turn and re-tighten back to 55Nm

4. stage - 80Nm

5. stage - 95Nm (70lbf ft)

 

http://forum.205gtidrivers.com/index.php?s...323&hl=head

http://forum.205gtidrivers.com/index.php?s...4&hl=torque

http://forum.205gtidrivers.com/index.php?s...mp;hl=head+bolt

 

Rgs !

Damir

[davey sprocket 14]

you need to get some water into the engine and see if you have cracked the block . As for tightening the head bolts have a look at pumaracing.com a realy good guide on what to do.

 

Yep, guess I'll find out soon enough.

This is the bit on www.pumaracing.co.uk. (Hope I'm OK quoting an outside source)

[snip]

Basic common sense got me most of the way there...at least I used the spacer.

 

I'll see how I go with the torquing up.

Just can't decide whether to continue as is.... or take them all out and lube them before giving it another go???

Edited September 21, 2008 by jackherer

[davey sprocket 14]

Relaxed method of tightening (never failed me yet !) :

 

1. stage - 30Nm

2. stage - 55Nm

3. stage - loosen each bolt 1/8th turn and re-tighten back to 55Nm

4. stage - 80Nm

5. stage - 95Nm (70lbf ft)

 

http://forum.205gtidrivers.com/index.php?s...323&hl=head

http://forum.205gtidrivers.com/index.php?s...4&hl=torque

http://forum.205gtidrivers.com/index.php?s...mp;hl=head+bolt

 

Rgs !

Damir

 

Thanks Damir,

I'd found your posts on the searches I did. Do you reckon I'm safe to undo them now I've got this far???

[davey sprocket 14]

I've tried to edit the post #6 to take out the quote incase it upsets Mr Puma racing but the forum won't let me edit my own posts for some reason.

 

Intended replacing it with a link to the article: www.pumaracing.co.uk

[jackherer 543]

I've tried to edit the post #6 to take out the quote incase it upsets Mr Puma racing but the forum won't let me edit my own posts for some reason.

 

Intended replacing it with a link to the article: www.pumaracing.co.uk

 

I've edited it, you're right, he probably would get upset.

[davey sprocket 14]

I've edited it, you're right, he probably would get upset.

 

Thanks.

 

Why can I see an edit button on post #8 but not #6???

 

 

Anyway. Back to playing with head bolts after work tomorrow.

[Stu 18]

 

When i did mine, i too was dreading the 300 degree turn, until by chance i spoke to a guy who had an engine built by Andrew Fischer of Cosworth fame, apparently he does the initial torques as per the spec, but does 140degrees, leaves them 24 hours then does the final 160, i did my Mi16 this way and so far everything has been sound.

 

Its had some stick too buddy!

Edited September 21, 2008 by Stu

[DamirGTI 342]

Thanks Damir,

I'd found your posts on the searches I did. Do you reckon I'm safe to undo them now I've got this far???

 

When doing them on this method which i've posted they can be reused again (cos they wont stretch as when doing them by OE 300deg. method ...)

Now , if you didn't go all the way tighten them up to 300deg id say yes you'll be able to reuse them (however just this time ..) - remove them all out in reverse order of the tightening sequence (do not undo them more than 1/4 turn each .. try to do so as gentile as you can and take you time , don't rush with undoing the bolts...) , apply grease on the bolt threads and under the bolt heads (you can use moly or copper grease ..) , fit them back and tight again by this Nm method ..

 

But i would fit new head gasket , just to be safe then sorry ..

 

Rgs !

Damir

 

(just to note , i've been successfully reusing this type of head bolts even after they've been previously tightened on the OE 300deg. method when i was working in my mates garage .. however : i wouldn't recommend this practice to anyone !! )

[DamirGTI 342]

I've edited it, you're right, he probably would get upset.

 

...could've been rivers of blood if he did find out

 

Damir

Edited September 21, 2008 by DamirGTI

[dcc 855]

you need to be careful as i cracked my water pump housing, where the rotating spindle pushes the water arround, causing the water to leak out the back of my 8v. i didnt forget the spacer, but i forgot my washer! (you need the washer and spacer!) but its not all bad, as you can easily fix if you took the engine out, or even with it in, just a tad more fidely.

[jackherer 543]

Why can I see an edit button on post #8 but not #6???

 

You can edit posts for a short period after they are made but thereafter they are cast in stone.

[j_turnell 137 3 Cars]

Just make sure all the threds are clean in the block and you use copper grease on the bolts then the 300 degrees isnt a problem atall.