Total Amature Needs Help With Droplinks.

[Guest danielnf82]

Hi im new on here,ive not really done much diy before just simple little jobs but i need to change my drop links.

Ive read the posts on here but i still need to know how to change them from start to finish.Also ive seen some on ebay for £25 for pair,are these any good or do i need special ones?much appreciated.

[pug_ham 245 3 Cars]

Hi Daniel,

 

Changing drop links is a fairly straight forward job but it doesn't often go as smoothly as you might hope.

 

To get to them its easiest with the front o fthe car jacked & supported with the wheels off. Then a 16 or 17mm nut usually holds the droplink attached to the front antirollbar or shocker body.

 

This can be where the fun starts because it can have either a flat for an open ended spanner to hold it still while you remove the nut or a 5mm allen key slot in the middle of the thread which will normally round off when you start undoing them so you need to pop the rubber boot loose & use some vice grips to hold it still.

 

It might be worth while giving the threads & nut a scrub with a wire brush before spraying some penetrating oil on the threads a few times over a couple of day prior to attempting to do them.

 

The ebay droplinks for £25 are genrally OK, I've used a couple of sets & they've lasted long enought o make them good value. GSF sell them individually for £18.50+vat for genuine spec Lemforder ones soits up to you.

 

Graham.

[steve@cornwall 100]

Hi im new on here,ive not really done much diy before just simple little jobs but i need to change my drop links.

Ive read the posts on here but i still need to know how to change them from start to finish.Also ive seen some on ebay for £25 for pair,are these any good or do i need special ones?much appreciated.

 

HI!.

Droplinks aren't difficult, But there are a few different types about! Basic principles for changing them are the same, though. Start with the car jacked up, supported and with the wheel removed, obviously! Undo the top of the link first- hopefully you will have the type (most common) with a nut shaped, or round with flats type backing (behind the lug on the shock) With these it's just a case of a socket on the fixing nut whilst holding the "bolt" section of the top joint in place.Once the nut is removed- push the old unit clear. You may need to lever the anti roll bar (where the bottom of the link bolts through) downwards to push it clear.The bottom of the drop link is similarly held in place but generally the "nut" to stop the joint rotating is larger.

 

If you have the type with an allen key recess in the end of the droplink "bolt" part- these will more than likely round off on removal and leave you to find a way of cutting the nut off! very unpleasant.

 

I have a pair of cheap ebay droplinks on my CTi as it does very little mileage, so how long they will last I can't say. However they are the allen key type - the boots are inferior and easily damaged and , personally, I wouldn't recommend them for a first attempt unless you're reasonably confident of finding imaginative methods to complete the job! If you do go for these, though, I'd test the threads and supplied nuts with the links off the car - make sure the nut goes all the way on without needing undue force. Mine didn't and rounded the allen recess just fitting them. There are flats on the rear to hold the "bolt" but again the metal is soft and rounds off easily - I split a boot dong this.

 

As they say "replacement is a reversal of above procedure" )

 

 

Edit - Graham types quicker than me !

Edited September 18, 2008 by steve@cornwall

[petesy71 0]

hi daniel, theres plenty of info on the quality of aftermarket droplinks if you search about on here. info on changing them here,droplinks.

just undo the two bolts with the car jacked up and wheel off

use a spanner to stop the balljoint spinning when undoing the nut

torque settings are here, torque settings. good luck,pete.

 

edit- you all type quicker than me

Edited September 18, 2008 by petesy71

[Guest danielnf82]

Thats great thanks guys,my mate may watch me do it for the first time so i dont break anything,got to learn as money is short at the moment!

cheers again.

[GLPoomobile 958]

When I was out in the dark of a couple of nights ago, removing my old drop links, I totally forgot that you could hold the back of the top BJ while undoing it (and couldn't see the back of it due to lack of light) My solution was to use mole grips to clamp the end of the bolt (before the thread) and use copious amounts of Plusgas and a wire brush to make damn sure the nut came off the last few turns when I could no longer hold it with the molegrips.

 

Still, I managed both sides, and in the dark, so it's not a tough job.

 

As always though, rust can be the ultimate difference between an easy job and an unnecessarily tough job. I always recommend using Plusgas (don't waste your time with WD40) and a wire brush to clean the threads. If you are ever in any doubt about getting a bolt/nut off due to rust, let it soak in Plusgas over 1 or 2 days (if time permits) rather than just going at it and rounding it off or stripping the threads.

Edited September 18, 2008 by GLPoomobile

[Guest danielnf82]

Cheers mate il get some plusgas just in case,do you find it in most shops like motor world or halfords or any diy place?

[jimistdt 1]

Most motor factors will have it. I did mine yesterday by chance, 40 minute job including getting tackle out (ooo-er) and having a coffee.

 

 

Jimi

[Guest danielnf82]

Cheers people thats been a great help.Glad i joined this forum now best one by far.

[steve@cornwall 100]

Cheers people thats been a great help.Glad i joined this forum now best one by far.

 

Only just noticed your location! Great to have another Cornish Pugger! - Get a pic of your car up so I can recognise you if out and about

[ablister 31]

droplinks are a pain in the tits! I've had some bad ones in my time that just refuse to move but that's another story... (peugeot mechanic )