skanny 0 Posted September 9, 2008 Im thinking about waxoyling the pug, just because im probably going to keep it for a long time. It has a tiny amount of rust in the rear quarter in front of the wheel arch down low. As its stripped out inside i can see in the 'v' oc the rear quarter where the water has been collecting and where it has started to rust a bit. Has anyone used waxoyl on their pug or indeed othe cars and how have you found its application and its performance. does it stop existing rust getting any worse? Or do you need to remove any exixsing rust then apply it? Thanks Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tom Fenton 1,541 Posted September 9, 2008 Really you need to remove any rust first, putting it over the top will not stop it getting worse. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CosKev 16 Posted September 9, 2008 Hi Colin Although Waxoyl does state on the tin it has a rust killer in it and it will kill I rust I very much doubt it Old rust/skabs need to rubbed down and treated with a rust killer first IMO,I use Loctite rust remedy. If you can get a wire brush attachment in your drill down there give it a good go with that first. Then your Waxoyl over the cured rust. One good tip with Waxoyl is to warm it up before use,penetrates the small areas better when runny Some pics of rust treated in this thread on my 309 Gti: http://www.309ownersclub.com/Community/vie...f=30&t=2266 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ben-1888 Posted September 9, 2008 yeh remove all rust first... even roughly... but once thats dun it works very well!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pugnut 9 1 Cars Posted September 9, 2008 i find waxoyl doesnt last long in wheel arches etc where its blasted with dirt. I use THIS under the arches. its much more durable. Thats if you have access to a compressor. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cabana 0 Posted September 10, 2008 One good tip with Waxoyl is to warm it up before use,penetrates the small areas better when runny I'd agree with that, it's much easier to work with when it's not thick and gloopy, I've always found the best method is to dunk the tin of waxoyl into a bucket of warm water first. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites