Clonking, Rumbling And Whining Noises

[Alan_M 66 1 Cars]

My 205 has developed some nasty noises, increasing in volume since coming back from the Nurburgring.

 

They are a mixture, clonking, rumbling and whining usually as soon as you put any kind of steering lock on, no matter how little.

 

Apart from the obvious hub ovalling, and knackered CV joint is there anything else I can check?

 

The car was practically rebuilt suspension wise before the Ring trip, which incorporated a rear beam rebuild, new 309 wishbones/Pug bushes, droplinks, new passenger shaft, new quickrack/track-rods/TRE's and harder springs. It also has a plate diff, so I expect a bit of noise but these noises sound seriously nasty.

 

Also, it seems to bind a bit going left too.......Wondering if the plebs set up my tracking right.

 

Any ideas?

[Toddy 7]

Strut top bearings?

 

You don't have much luck with your miami!

[Pugnut 9 1 Cars]

i used to get nasty rumbles and a loud regular click when you moved the steering from anything but dead ahead. dropping the geabox oil i found a lot of metal shavings. dropped the diff casing and found all but a few teeth left on the planet gear. that was just a standard diff though.

[Alan_M 66 1 Cars]

Strut top bearings?

 

You don't have much luck with your miami!

 

Sorry, should've mentioned that they are new too.

 

And no, I bloody dont'y have much luck with it. I think I'm jinxed with the colour! 2 previous Miami's have caused me grief as well......

 

Noticed today that the TRE's have unequal thread showing, may be the reason for the tighter turning one way compared to the other. Worrying thing is though, that if they used the rear wheels and a laser for alignment, then that surely means that my beam is pissed?

[Anthony 1,003]

Noticed today that the TRE's have unequal thread showing, may be the reason for the tighter turning one way compared to the other. Worrying thing is though, that if they used the rear wheels and a laser for alignment, then that surely means that my beam is pissed?

Much more likely is that whoever did the tracking was lazy and only bothered to adjust one side, or your steering rack isn't centralised properly. However, IMO the uneven adjustment of the TRE's won't have anything to do with the heavy/uneven steering in itself

[jengis 0]

I would suspect dodgy wheel bearing (especially if its returning from the 'Ring). Would also tie in with the "binding" steering feel one way if it drags excessively when loaded up.

 

Am I right in thinking the noise is heard 'on the move' at constant steering lock? Or is it mostly heard as you alter steering lock? This will help determine if its steering rack related or in the drivetrain/hubs.

 

After replacing strut mounts, lower arms, steering and rear beam I would assume you have the allignment fully checked? Do you have the print-out of this? It should also show the amount of 'toe-out on turns' (this should be equal each side). This should answer any doubts about whether the work was done right fitting the s/rack and give you peace of mind!

 

Wheel bearing(s) is my guess!

 

Kev

[Alan_M 66 1 Cars]

I would suspect dodgy wheel bearing (especially if its returning from the 'Ring). Would also tie in with the "binding" steering feel one way if it drags excessively when loaded up.

 

Am I right in thinking the noise is heard 'on the move' at constant steering lock? Or is it mostly heard as you alter steering lock? This will help determine if its steering rack related or in the drivetrain/hubs.

 

After replacing strut mounts, lower arms, steering and rear beam I would assume you have the allignment fully checked? Do you have the print-out of this? It should also show the amount of 'toe-out on turns' (this should be equal each side). This should answer any doubts about whether the work was done right fitting the s/rack and give you peace of mind!

 

Wheel bearing(s) is my guess!

 

Kev

 

The noise is on the move, and as soon as you put any amount of lock on. I am suspect of the passenger hub being ovalled. The shaft on that side is new.

 

I fitted the rack as well, which whilst being stiff (2.5 turns lock to lock) it moves freely on the car.

[Alan_M 66 1 Cars]

Plan.....

 

Swop hubs to a known good pair, may fit new bearings before fitting. Might have some spare at work

 

Drop gearbox oil

 

As I am changing hub and gearbox oil, I'll fit the original shaft (nothing wrong with it, just split the inner boot). That will cancel out the new shaft.

 

Take car to a 4 wheel alignment centre.

 

Am I right in thinking the plate diff will show up wear in shafts and bearings more-so than a standard diff?

Edited September 8, 2008 by Alan_M