DjB 0 Posted September 3, 2008 (edited) My oil sump gasket is leaking.... Not the point of gushing, but enough to give me the s**ts. Can the oil sump be removed without taking the engine out of the car or without any form of engine lifting device? I'm also about to change the RH top engine mount and the lower engine mount. Whats the best method of supporting the engine while the mounts are being changed.... obviously change one at a time, but is there a point under the engine I could support it with a trolley jack or something? Thanks... Chris Edited September 3, 2008 by DjB Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
welshpug 1,657 Posted September 3, 2008 yes, the sump can be re-sealed quite easily in situ, be prepared for quite a lot of oil to drip from the engine whilst the sump is off. place a well padded trolley jack under the sump to support the engine (block of wood does the trick) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DjB 0 Posted September 3, 2008 Fan'bloody"tastic Welshpug...... Thanks heaps... Chris Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pug_ham 244 3 Cars Posted September 5, 2008 IMO the block of wood makes supporting the engine worse when removing the upper engine mount, I just position a trolley jack against the lower engine mount / intermediate bearing housing instead. Keeps it much more solid. Graham. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DjB 0 Posted September 5, 2008 (edited) Im also fairly sure that the distributor oil seal needs replacing too. I just searched the topic and apart from making sure the engine is in TDC when I pull the dizzy out to change the seal is there any other pits falls to watch put for.... Chris Edited September 5, 2008 by DjB Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pug_ham 244 3 Cars Posted September 5, 2008 You don't need to make sure the engine is at TDC for changing the dizzy oil seal imo, just make a decent mark across the joint before you undo the nuts & line it back up when you refit it. Graham. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SeanO'Connor 0 Posted September 5, 2008 Putting the engine at tdc has the advantage of knowing where to put it back if you leave the job etc, for a while. but a mark of yellow paint is just as good. btw how much was your sump gasket, I need one to. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CosKev 16 Posted September 5, 2008 I would buy two sump gaskets,there is an alloy spacer plate on the bottom of the block between sump and block,which as standard is just sealed using sealer,I put the second sump gasket on there. Also make sure you use a thread lock/sealer on the sump bolts Putting the engine at tdc has the advantage of knowing where to put it back if you leave the job etc, for a while. but a mark of yellow paint is just as good. btw how much was your sump gasket, I need one to. Think they are circa £5 from GSF Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DjB 0 Posted September 6, 2008 I havent priced one yet, but what ever I pay wont help you because ill probably have to pay triple what you'll pay because I'm in Australia........... mate.... hahaha Cheers for the tips though.. I'll you updated Chris Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pug_ham 244 3 Cars Posted September 6, 2008 Putting the engine at tdc has the advantage of knowing where to put it back if you leave the job etc It shouldn't matter how long you leave the job, the dizzy can only be fitted in one direction due to the offset key drive which slots into the end of the cam so a single mark across the joining faces between the dizzy & housing should more than suffice. I would buy two sump gaskets,there is an alloy spacer plate on the bottom of the block between sump and block,which as standard is just sealed using sealer,I put the second sump gasket on there. The spacer is meant to be fitted with just sealant, thats how they come fitted from the factory, not with a gasket either side iirc. With the spacer removed, clean the mating surfaces & with a thin bead of a decent quality RTV/ silicon sealant put a thin bead on the spacer plate before refitting it to the block . Then refit the sump with the gasket & tighten all the bolts up evenly. NO need for loctite either imo. Graham. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CosKev 16 Posted September 6, 2008 Then refit the sump with the gasket & tighten all the bolts up evenly. NO need for loctite either imo. Graham. When I did my City and Guilds a fair few years ago we were taught to use thread lock/seal on all sump bolts. The reason being that you can't tighten the bolts very tight(otherwise you split the gasket and it pushes out of the sides)so the bolts can come loose quite easily because they are not tight. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DjB 0 Posted September 6, 2008 Thanks for all you help guys, I'm picking up the oil sump gasket tomorrow as well as a distributor seal... So time will tell on tuesday Chris Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
