johno_78 2 Posted September 1, 2008 I've just had an Mot failure because of excessive blue smoke which i believe is due to the valve stem seals. I'm planning on doing the work myself but don't know which parts i can re-use and what i need to buy. What other bits would i need to replace or would be advisable to replace, other than the valve seals? I know i need to use grinding paste to allow the valves seat properly, is there anything else i need or would make the job easier? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
returnofjim 0 Posted September 1, 2008 I've just had an Mot failure because of excessive blue smoke which i believe is due to the valve stem seals. I'm planning on doing the work myself but don't know which parts i can re-use and what i need to buy. What other bits would i need to replace or would be advisable to replace, other than the valve seals? I know i need to use grinding paste to allow the valves seat properly, is there anything else i need or would make the job easier? You will need to get a head gasket set which usually come with valve stem seals, head gasket, cam seals, all other gaskets and headbolts, they set usually costs around £40-£50 quid. Also while your doing the job you should really replace the timing belt and drivebelt. You would also want the head skimmed and i would recommend having the valve seats re-cut and the valves faced so that you dont need to grind the valves in with paste. Having the seats cut and valves faced makes a much better seal and and saves you hours of grinding valves in. Are you sure its the valve stem seals thats causing the smoke, it is very common but it might be worth doing a compression test before you start just to make sure its not the piston rings. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
welshpug 1,657 Posted September 1, 2008 is it 8 or 16v? 8v heads will need the clearances re-set. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rock Lobster 28 Posted September 1, 2008 definately worth doing a compression test before you start stripping the engine, if you can rule out the rings causing the smoke its £70 saved from the word go, plus all the work of removing all the pistons! you will also need to get hold of a valve spring compressor in order the remove the valves, got mine for about £30, borrow one if you can though. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
johno_78 2 Posted September 1, 2008 it's a 1.9 8v. I'm getting a compression test done later this afternoon to see for certain, but i'm pretty sure it's the valve seals. Would a general machine shop be the place to get the skimming and valve work done? what's the normal price for this? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rock Lobster 28 Posted September 1, 2008 head skim that i had done was £30, pretty standard charge i would imagine, as for the rest i'm not too sure, ring round local machine shops and get some quotes, i'm doing a head rebuild at the moment so let me know what they come back with mate. i'm tempted just to grind them and hope for the best! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
returnofjim 0 Posted September 1, 2008 it's a 1.9 8v. I'm getting a compression test done later this afternoon to see for certain, but i'm pretty sure it's the valve seals. Would a general machine shop be the place to get the skimming and valve work done? what's the normal price for this? Im afraid machine shop work prices depend on where you live, the further down south you get the more it seems to be for some reason. I pay £25-£30 for a skim and £50 to have the seats cut and valves faced. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Veero 1 Posted September 1, 2008 I changed the valve stem seals on my 1.6 8v for the MOT without taking the head off. I had about 6500 miles trouble free driving afterwards before I ripped it out to do an Mi conversion. I even wrote a guide which I have somewhere, PM me your email address and I can send it you if you want. I literally replaced the valve stem seals and checked the valve clearances and that was it. Nothing cleaned out or rebuilt properly I guess. Cheers Veero Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
johno_78 2 Posted September 2, 2008 I changed the valve stem seals on my 1.6 8v for the MOT without taking the head off. I had about 6500 miles trouble free driving afterwards before I ripped it out to do an Mi conversion. I even wrote a guide which I have somewhere, PM me your email address and I can send it you if you want. I literally replaced the valve stem seals and checked the valve clearances and that was it. Nothing cleaned out or rebuilt properly I guess. Cheers Veero As i've built the car from spares that were laying around, that is pretty much what i'm looking to do. You have a pm Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
maiklas 0 Posted September 2, 2008 Hi, need advice from clever people Short story: I have '92 CTI 1.9 and '91 GRIFFE 1.9. I guess somebody have changed engines in both cars before me, but nor 100% sure. CTI have DDZ engine with eccentric roller timing belt tensioner - so later model. And Griffe have DFZ engine with spring loaded tensioner - earlier model. Recently I've changed CTI engine to Mi16 and decided to rebuilt old engine's cylinder head and use it on GRIFFE engine, because there were only 6 bar in each cylinder and valves were leaking. So I replaced old cylinder head, with new rebuilt head from CTI. I left same timing belt, I have changed it about 10 000 km ago. I locked crankshaft and camshaft as written in Hayenes manual, with 10 mm dowels. I was made this job a few times before, and found no problem in it. But this time, I started engine and it was running very noisy and lots of smoke comes from exhaust, and smelled like petrol. Compression in each cylinders was left even less, about 4-5 bar. Its definitly something wrong with valves phases. I refitted timing belt 10 times more, but every time the result was the same. I experimented with camshaft sprocket position and when I locked the crankshaft as it should be locked and camshaft sprocket turned by two teeth clockwise, compression were about 10 bar, but engine didn't start. The question is, does it suits cylinder head from later model engine, to earlier engine? An maybe anybody can see here some other plausible problem? Thanks. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CosKev 16 Posted September 2, 2008 Hi, need advice from clever people Short story: I have '92 CTI 1.9 and '91 GRIFFE 1.9. I guess somebody have changed engines in both cars before me, but nor 100% sure. CTI have DDZ engine with eccentric roller timing belt tensioner - so later model. And Griffe have DFZ engine with spring loaded tensioner - earlier model. Recently I've changed CTI engine to Mi16 and decided to rebuilt old engine's cylinder head and use it on GRIFFE engine, because there were only 6 bar in each cylinder and valves were leaking. So I replaced old cylinder head, with new rebuilt head from CTI. I left same timing belt, I have changed it about 10 000 km ago. I locked crankshaft and camshaft as written in Hayenes manual, with 10 mm dowels. I was made this job a few times before, and found no problem in it. But this time, I started engine and it was running very noisy and lots of smoke comes from exhaust, and smelled like petrol. Compression in each cylinders was left even less, about 4-5 bar. Its definitly something wrong with valves phases. I refitted timing belt 10 times more, but every time the result was the same. I experimented with camshaft sprocket position and when I locked the crankshaft as it should be locked and camshaft sprocket turned by two teeth clockwise, compression were about 10 bar, but engine didn't start. The question is, does it suits cylinder head from later model engine, to earlier engine? An maybe anybody can see here some other plausible problem? Thanks. Could this be because the earlier engines have different amount of teeth on cam belts???? So I would think cam belts are different lengths Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
