Spray Painting Q's

[Lan 24 1 Cars]

before i apply laquer to my paintwork do i have to rub down the colour coat its a metallic if that makes any difference

[Paintguy 0]

In most cases no.

 

Sanding a metallic colour before applying the lacquer can lead to visible scratch marks, and can also affect the colour itself giving a patchy effect. If you have any issues with the colour coats, like runs or bits of dirt, then by all means sand them lightly, but apply another coat over the top before lacquering.

[brianthemagical 1]

What kind of differences would orange peel present. Would it just mean sanding the laquer? How would it be differnt for not metalic colours. What kind af grade would be advisable? Sorry for the q's and i'm not expecting too many trade secrets, more hints. Thanks. Thanks and thanks again.

Edited August 26, 2008 by brianthemagical

[kate205gti 4]

prep, prep and more prep i was taught to do all the sanding and flatting on the primer before you even think of adding colour on there then should be ready for paint and lacquer straight on

[Lan 24 1 Cars]

In most cases no.

 

Sanding a metallic colour before applying the lacquer can lead to visible scratch marks, and can also affect the colour itself giving a patchy effect. If you have any issues with the colour coats, like runs or bits of dirt, then by all means sand them lightly, but apply another coat over the top before lacquering.

 

so just laquer straight on then (ive already done the colour coat)

[Paintguy 0]

Non-metallics are a whole different ball game, and you can get away with sanding them before lacquer, although it isn't a necessity. Pretty much the same with orange peel, as the lacquer (or clearcoat to be more precise) will cover it up, and you can just sand the clearcoat after it's dried if need be.

 

Metallics 'work' mainly by how the aluminium flakes contained within them reflect light. They lay at certain angles when painted (properly ) and sanding can ruin this effect. Also heavy orange peel in a metallic base will affect the lie of the flakes, and will be noticeable when clearcoated.

 

As for grades of paper, if you're talking about between the base colour and clearcoat, then 1200 would be ideal. You can go rougher than that if you're putting enough clear on, but 1200 is a safe bet. For metallics I go as fine as 2000 before putting another coat of colour over the top.

[Lan 24 1 Cars]

o and i ther is some overspray on the bonnet of the car from something i sprayed in the past, can i just rub that off with wet n dry then relaquer??

[Paintguy 0]

so just laquer straight on then (ive already done the colour coat)

Missed your reply as I was typing!

 

Yes, just put the lacquer straight over the top.

 

The only problem is if you've left it too long after applying the colour. Really the lacquer (clearcoat) should go on less then 24 hours after the base colour for optimum adhesion. If it's been left much longer than that then you really ought to give it a light sanding with a fine grade paper (1200 - 2000), put on another coat of colour, then lacquer once that has dried..

 

 

EDIT: As for the overspray - if you sand the surface, then you must apply more colour over where you've sanded, or the sanding marks will show through (as mentioned above)

Edited August 26, 2008 by Paintguy

[Lan 24 1 Cars]

Missed your reply as I was typing!

 

Yes, just put the lacquer straight over the top.

 

The only problem is if you've left it too long after applying the colour. Really the lacquer (clearcoat) should go on less then 24 hours after the base colour for optimum adhesion. If it's been left much longer than that then you really ought to give it a light sanding with a fine grade paper (1200 - 2000), put on another coat of colour, then lacquer once that has dried..

 

 

EDIT: As for the overspray - if you sand the surface, then you must apply more colour over where you've sanded, or the sanding marks will show through (as mentioned above)

 

ok thanks alot for your replys and help mate i will get some pictures up once all is done

[Jrod 7]

I've used T cut to get overspray off to good effect, not a good idea if the overspray is on a freshly painted panel though I guess.

[Paintguy 0]

ok thanks alot for your replys and help mate i will get some pictures up once all is done

Any time fella

 

Kate - of course you're right, but even the best of us have the occasional accident when putting on the paint and need a bit of remedial work. With me it's normally an effing great moth landing the the middle of a bonnet mid spray

[kate205gti 4]

my bad i thought he'd just started doesnt mean i listen to what im taught though im shocking at spraying

 

ive found rubbing compound gets overspray off v well from experience (exploded primer can!), but as said makes sure its not fresh paint

[Arahan 4]

Kate - of course you're right, but even the best of us have the occasional accident when putting on the paint and need a bit of remedial work. With me it's normally an effing great moth landing the the middle of a bonnet mid spray

 

Me too! Every bloody time! Its just about finished and wham! a tiny little fly will stick itself to my nicely painted surface! The last little bugger that did it got painted over! If it likes my painted xbox that much, it can stay under the paint FOREVER! Little bleeder!