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Ludders

Mi16 Engine Mount Recommendations

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Ludders

Hi people, sorry if this has been covered before. I've got a newly MI'd 205 and I'd like to know what opinions are for engine mount choice.

It was originally fitted with solid lower mount and group n top mounts, i found it horrendous to drive and every engine vibration was transferred to the cabin. I've since had all new standard mounts fitted and it's a joy to drive but under hard 1st and 2nd acceleration the engine is hitting in the usual place.

 

The car is not being used on track at all and I want to retain every bit of comfort I can whilst of course avoiding the engine hitting.

 

Look forward to hearing some recommendations, cheers.

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Tom Fenton

Try the harder rubber lower mount, this is the one that reacts against the engine rocking the most.

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Baz

Solid what lower mount, rubber or metal?

 

See the Baker Bushes & Mountings website, forum sponsor. Generally a stiffer lower one stops alot of the movement, and yes are noisier, but they get better as they supple up a little after time. The top GpN ones do transfer alot of vibration/noise too though.

 

Otherwise try a TD lower mount, only slightly stiffer than std.

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Ludders

Thanks, I think the bottom mount was group a and the tops are group N.

 

Would that be a 306 TDI lower mount?

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Tom Fenton
and yes are noisier, but they get better as they supple up a little after time.

 

 

Definitely agree with this, when I first fitted my BBM lower bush it was really quite noisy and harsh, but 3 months later and it really has settled down.

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205toby

Just an idea: I faced the same problem and it has worked a treat on mine.

On my car, the lower mount was fitted with the two rubber links between the inside and outside vertical, this meant that when the engine tried to move it "twisted" the mount.

It's hard to explain, but thats the best I can do it. Admittedly, with the mount in like this there is no vibration BUT the manifold touched the firewall sometimes.

SO...

I fitted the new, standard rubber mount differently. I pressed it in so the rubber links are horizontal. Now, when the engine tries to move, it has to "compress" the rubber rather than twist. The manifold doesn't hit anymore and it's still smooth, although it vibrates a tiny bit at idle.

I think the mount should last longer this way too. I'm sure people have already done this but it worked for me. worth a go!

Toby

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Ludders

Toby,

 

Brilliant thanks. I'm seriously considering giving this a go, does anyone else have any experience of doing this, potential pitfalls etc?

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Baz

It works yes, but IMO they're pressed in one way round for a reason. I've never used one long enough to know how well they last, and i can't see it being drastic, but i suspect it wouldn't last as long.

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205toby
It works yes, but IMO they're pressed in one way round for a reason. I've never used one long enough to know how well they last, and i can't see it being drastic, but i suspect it wouldn't last as long.

I disagree and so does basic materials physics. They will last longer. The reason they beak is when the rubber starts to crack or separate from the outer shell of the engine mount, both conditions greatly exasperated by the twisting motion found in the standard mount. Putting the mount in this way eliminates virtually all stress on the mount. Compressing rubber is no where near as strenuous as twisting! The resaon Peugeot fit the mounts the way they do is to prevent vibration. It is harsher this way, but easily bareable. As for pitfalls, the slight increase in vibration is the only one I have experienced and can possibly see occuring.

As for mine, I've now had it in for about 2 months and 2000km and it's still fine.

Do it! It's the cheapest way to fix the problem without ridiculous vibration either.

Toby

Edited by 205toby

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philfingers

they should be fitted with the webs horizontal as far as i know.

 

try:-

Xanthia Petrol Turbo engine mount fits the pug

 

Part No 180921

 

10.18 Pounds (well was when I checked last!)

 

Uprated but quite so hard as GpN ones,

 

Phil

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Baz

That's the same part number as a TD one.

 

Yes, Toby perhaps you're correct, i'd be interested to see how it fares after a few more k.

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