Battle Of The Damper Bolts

[jimistdt 1]

Yesterday I attempted to do a straight swap of the Aftermarket Dampers with original Gti ones, I was under the car for two hours turning the nut on the bottom bolt to no avail, at one point one of the nieghbours came to see if I was alright, or maybe he wondered if I was making love to it

 

At the moment the dampers I wanted to remove are still on the car.

 

If I cut the end of the thread off, will that work? I have a rudimentry tool kit, ie spanners and sockets, so dont have breaker bars or specialist kit.

 

I have searched and searched, and I repeatedly came across the problem but not many solutions.

 

Thanks once again...

[Tom Fenton 1,541]

I take it you mean the rear dampers?

[jimistdt 1]

Yes, big ommission. Well picked up Tom

 

I am reffering to the rears.

[Tom Fenton 1,541]

So you are turning the lower nut, e.g the one through the damper and suspension arm, anticlockwise, with the bolt head held still by the casting of the susp arm, and the nut will not come undone?

[jimistdt 1]

Yes that is exactly right. The big bolt cant spin as it is held in, the nut was very tight, til about 10mm from end then just stops. If I really rag it now the Trailing arm just goes up and down.

[Tom Fenton 1,541]

So you have managed to undo it some of the way, but now you can't shift it?

 

If so, wind it back all the way on, then give the exposed threads some welly with a wire brush. Once you've done this get some duck oil round the threads and then try again.

 

If you are just using small tools you may find you do need a breaker bar to get more leverage. Personally I use my windy gun but thats not much help to you.

[jimistdt 1]

So you have managed to undo it some of the way, but now you can't shift it?

 

If so, wind it back all the way on, then give the exposed threads some welly with a wire brush. Once you've done this get some duck oil round the threads and then try again.

 

If you are just using small tools you may find you do need a breaker bar to get more leverage. Personally I use my windy gun but thats not much help to you.

 

It is tightened back up at the moment because I had to come to work this morning, I have sprayed it liberally with WD-40. And the best I could do for levergae was to interconnect the open end of the spanner with a ring one (old trick me dad taught me..)

 

I will do as you suggest tomorrow Tom, thanks for your time.

[GLPoomobile 958]

WD40 has limited effectiveness for this sort of thing. Plusgas is better, but really your problem sounds like a damaged thread or just dirt and corrosion on the threads.

 

After cleaning it with a wire brush, if it's still corroded and no good, you can get rid of the rust using vinegar. I'd suggest soaking a rag in the stuff and wrapping it over the bolt and leaving it for a day. Then when you brush it the rust should comm off nicely.

 

Then with the bolt cleaned up, see if you can spot any damage to the thread that might be stopping the nut in its tracks.

[jimistdt 1]

WD40 has limited effectiveness for this sort of thing. Plusgas is better, but really your problem sounds like a damaged thread or just dirt and corrosion on the threads.

 

After cleaning it with a wire brush, if it's still corroded and no good, you can get rid of the rust using vinegar. I'd suggest soaking a rag in the stuff and wrapping it over the bolt and leaving it for a day. Then when you brush it the rust should comm off nicely.

 

Then with the bolt cleaned up, see if you can spot any damage to the thread that might be stopping the nut in its tracks.

 

 

And I tip my hat towards you also GLP.

[jonnie205 1]

wire brush lots, wd40 then use a propper 1/2 breaker, a spanner will be no good they just flex, if not then cut it off and replace bolt

[jimistdt 1]

Job sorted, took two hours following the advice of Tom and Poo, thanks chaps.

 

 

Just waiting for the bl00dy rain to stop and torque the nuts up. (bought one yesterday £20)

 

 

 

May be closed, Mods.

 

 

 

Thanks to all.