Rusty Sills

[Ethos 0]

Hi guys,

 

Just after some advice really, is this too far gone to start fixing? If not, are we looking at silly money to correct?

 

Thanks

 

 

 

 

[toddydal 1]

nothings to far gone,but only way to fix that is to totally cut out the rot and replace with new metal,so basically you want rear 1/4 bottom cut out and probly a section of the sill as well

[Ethos 0]

I've never done any bodywork before, but i'm more than happy to do as much as I can to cut down on cost. I'm guessing what you've suggested will be silly money?

 

There are other problem areas on the 205 with rust (inner arches are v.bad) so i'm a bit down at the moment now!!

[steve@cornwall 100]

I've never done any bodywork before, but i'm more than happy to do as much as I can to cut down on cost. I'm guessing what you've suggested will be silly money?

 

There are other problem areas on the 205 with rust (inner arches are v.bad) so i'm a bit down at the moment now!!

 

 

To be honest, I expected them to be worse than that. The outside looks worse because the previously applied filler is pushing out, but may well be surface rust only, I'd get a drill powered wire brush on it to see how bad the interior bit is - but at the moment I'd say it was unsightly but not structural - just depends what the next MOT tester reckons the level of corrosion is? You're still very welcome to cut the lower 1/4 s off my scrap shell

[toddydal 1]

its not a hard job for some one who knows what they are doing,but if you want to learn and keep cost down nows the time.

[Ethos 0]

What happens if I start going through it .... and it doesn't stop though?!!!

 

What are the 1/4 like on your scrap shell mate?

 

MOT is Feb time so I have a bit time to sort it if it can be saved without spending silly money.

[steve@cornwall 100]

What happens if I start going through it .... and it doesn't stop though?!!!

 

What are the 1/4 like on your scrap shell mate?

 

MOT is Feb time so I have a bit time to sort it if it can be saved without spending silly money.

 

Dent in the o/s which will prob push out (done in the garage) but as it's going to need filling around welds, this shouldn't matter . Rust wise - MINT . Unfortunately I don't weld - but i can offer help with finishing - Put a pic up of the name on the bottom of the number plate......

[Ethos 0]

For your viewing pleasure!

 

[Miles 331 1 Cars]

Not wanting to sound to negitive, but this car was just showing minor signs of rust on the sill and as you can see on the bottom of the qtr panel and you can see what happened when I went to take a wheel off,

 

It had rotted all the way thru to the fuel tank

 

Can you take the car back to them?

Edited August 3, 2008 by Miles

[steve@cornwall 100]

Not wanting to sound to negitive, but this car was just showing minor signs of rust on the sill and as you can see on the bottom of the qtr panel and you can see what happened when I went to take a wheel off,

 

It had rotted all the way thru to the fuel tank

 

Can you take the car back to them?

 

 

ummm... you want to cut the sills off too?

[danpug 1]

Tom (ethos) told me earlier that the car was bought last year and afaik it was a previous owner who bought it from the company above.

[Ethos 0]

Yep, I didn't purchase it from Just Gtis

 

Bought it off a chap just over a year ago now, sills were looking perfect then so obviously not long after they did an awesome job at touching it up.

[Dan Ingram 1]

http://forum.205gtidrivers.com/index.php?s...mp;#entry833666

 

I'm having the same problem, once you start poking you might find a lot more. I'm going to fit a whole new rear quarter.

[Pugnut 9 1 Cars]

look at the second pic down . you can just see the bent over edge of the quarter panel where it meets the inner sill. You can see that its pretty gone so there is nowhere to reseal the area between the 1/4 and the sill on the outside. the only way to repair that properly is to remove the lower part of the 1/4 where it meets the sill. then once thats removed you'll get to the inner sill where theres a good chance that where the lip was spot welded will have holes too.

 

as said if you've done this kind of thing before its not too hard.

 

As mentioned i'de be assessing the rest of you're shell . If thats all there is then its not that bad. check the inner sill up the edges of the fuel tank and under the rear seats. inner wings down where the jack is kept and the front panels and chassis rails around the headlight areas. Those are the areas i'de be paying most attention to , but there are plenty other places

[Ethos 0]

Well there is a small hole under the rear seat, about the size of a 50 pence piece, nothing too bad.

 

The inner arches (one one side especially) are pretty bad right in the corner and could do with looking at. I can hide that with the water bottle MOT time though.

 

Do I need to drop the fuel tank to have a good look underneath that and see what I'm going to do with it. I'm guessing if this rust has spread etc... it gets to a point where it's not worth working on it.

 

I'd really like to save the shell if possible tho.

 

Anyone know of anyone/company in the Southwest for this kind of thing?

[Ethos 0]

Guys, had a bit of a tinker a minute ago (read I prodding it alot with a screwdriver) and managed get it looking like this- seems a bit more solid then first thought?

 

Best course of action, I might be wrong (very likely) but to me that seems saveable with a bit of griding/rust treatment and maybe filling a couple small holes??

 

Edited August 4, 2008 by Ethos

[Ethos 0]

Another;

 

[Dan Ingram 1]

Doesn't look to bad, not as bad as mine anyway and I intend to sort mine out. Its really worth dropping the tank and checking everywhere though. No point sorting one bit only to find another a couple of months later.

[Ethos 0]

Good to hear Dan, thanks... good advice on checking other areas too. I think I will drop the tank.

 

If this plan waaaaay to optermistic?

 

Grind down the rest of the metal, hoping that I don't uncover any other major holes

File the holes out and then treat with rust treatment + hammerite. Cover holes with something (not sure yet).

Rust treat the whole area that has been rubbed down.

Couple coats of hammerite.

 

I guess the next thing would be to grind the outside of the panel down and see what's happening underneath that?

 

Am I talking s*it?

 

http://www.aoyt95.dsl.pipex.com/205/rust/3.jpg[\IMG]

[Pugnut 9 1 Cars]

Good to hear Dan, thanks... good advice on checking other areas too. I think I will drop the tank.

 

If this plan waaaaay to optermistic?

 

Grind down the rest of the metal, hoping that I don't uncover any other major holes

File the holes out and then treat with rust treatment + hammerite. Cover holes with something (not sure yet).

Rust treat the whole area that has been rubbed down.

Couple coats of hammerite.

 

I guess the next thing would be to grind the outside of the panel down and see what's happening underneath that?

 

Am I talking s*it?

 

 

very optimistic i would say.But you have to do what you can with the resources you have. Even pouring old engine oil in there will help. but for you to stand any kind of chance of keeping the rust away i'de steer clear of hammerite. without removing any affected metal you would be doing very well to keep the rust at bay for another 12 months.

 

try THIS SITE for more proffesional rust treatments like por-15 or dinitrol converarust etc. i have used these products and they seem to keep the rust away much much longer.

[Ethos 0]

Sorry Pugnut, not sure if I made my list very clear. I was planning on getting a wire brush (drill) to this to hopefully get as much as I can back to bare metal THEN treat it with some "rust treatment" just to be sure.

 

Thanks for the link, I will take a look.

 

Still against hammerite after a good anti-rust is applied?

[Ethos 0]

This;

 

http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/...ategoryId_90954

 

This

 

http://www.frost.co.uk/item_Detail.asp?pro...(20oz,%20590ml)

 

Then this?

 

http://www.frost.co.uk/item_Detail.asp?pro...=&subCatID=

Edited August 4, 2008 by Ethos

[Pugnut 9 1 Cars]

Sorry Pugnut, not sure if I made my list very clear. I was planning on getting a wire brush (drill) to this to hopefully get as much as I can back to bare metal THEN treat it with some "rust treatment" just to be sure.

 

Thanks for the link, I will take a look.

 

Still against hammerite after a good anti-rust is applied?

 

 

a wire brush will just polish the metal and seal the rust in . then you're anti rust treatment wont get everywhere. Grinding will be better, but i can gaurentee that you're little holes will quickly turn into big holes using a grinder. you will never keep the rust back on that for more than 12 months.

 

hammerite is too brittle and will crack and peel off. its too brittle for auto's. You'de be better using dulux gloss, yes seriously.

 

basically the more rust you remove the longer it will stay away.

[Pugnut 9 1 Cars]

This;

 

http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/...ategoryId_90954

 

This

 

http://www.frost.co.uk/item_Detail.asp?pro...(20oz,%20590ml)

 

Then this?

 

http://www.frost.co.uk/item_Detail.asp?pro...=&subCatID=

 

1, Noooooo. better with a dremmel, small stone and small grinding discs

 

2, definately

 

3, definately

 

Al

[Ethos 0]

Hmm, surely the wire brush (if hard enough) will work it's way through the soft rust though not polish it? I'm sure i've seen/read this as being an acceptable way of cutting back rust.

 

I agree, i'm sure there will be more holes...

 

Thanks for the tip on the hammerite, i'll stay clear for this type of job with it!

 

Then i'd just need to sort the exterior out (ouch).

 

1 bodge at a time though.