djinuk 2 Posted July 26, 2008 Well on my 205 xs the bump stops had literally disintegrated one day, so i ordered some new ones, today i looked at tackling the job and realised on the left hand side the bolt still remained despite being very very rusty, i put a spanner on it and it turned , about 3 rotations before snap, the end sheered, now there isn't room to get a drill in to tap it out and i cant think for the life of me how i am going to manage it,, please please help . ive included a couple of pics there is room to get a ratchet etc in there, just not a drill Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jrod 7 Posted July 26, 2008 Drop the beam off then drill and tap. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
djinuk 2 Posted July 26, 2008 i can see that would be a option , but was hoping to not have to do that , as the copper brake lines are alway a pain to remove and will snap Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
welshpug 1,657 Posted July 26, 2008 there is no other way to do it, unless you take the torsion bars out and drop the arms as far as the flexi hoses will allow. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
djinuk 2 Posted July 26, 2008 hmm, i am thinking araldite/ or chemical metal or similar, you think it would work Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
steve@cornwall 100 Posted July 26, 2008 (edited) hmm, i am thinking araldite/ or chemical metal or similar, you think it would work I was thinking epoxy for mine - but it's standard ride height and I drive like a pensioner I'm assuming the cone is bonded to the plate/bolt so don't see much difference with bonding straight to the chassis? Edited July 26, 2008 by steve@cornwall Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
welshpug 1,657 Posted July 26, 2008 (edited) The rubber cone is an interference fit in the metal cup which is bolted to the shell, I doubt any kind of sticky stuff would last TBH! Edited July 26, 2008 by welshpug Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jrod 7 Posted July 26, 2008 Best thing to do is be more careful when undoing the bolt. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pug_ham 244 3 Cars Posted July 26, 2008 AFAIK a couple of people have glued the bumpstop on as quite a lasting repair. (jackherer for one iirc). If you have a 1.9 rear beam you don't need to split the brake lines to remove the beam, it can all be done with them togethr by unbolting/clipping the brackets, lines & calipers etc & carefully moving them out of the way. Graham. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
djinuk 2 Posted July 26, 2008 nah its standard xs rear beam, (drum brakes), i am thinking of taking chances by bonding the metal plate on using a kinda of chemical metal, any other time i would of just replaced the copper brake lines etc and removed the rear beam ,but as its the gfs it would only be drove steady Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pug_ham 244 3 Cars Posted July 26, 2008 Don't bond the metal cup to the chassis, bond the bumpstop directly to it instead. Graham. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DamirGTI 342 Posted July 26, 2008 (edited) I removed just the same broken bump stop bolt yesterday (two of them on each side ..) , do you have access to the MIG welder ? If you do have an MIG welder , or if you can find someone with MIG welder this is what you need to do - clean throughly the bolt remains (but just the bolt remains , leave the surrounding metal as it is , painted ..) , take one nut , hold the nut with pliers on top of the bolt remains but take care that the broken bolt is in the center with the nut hole , then start welding/filling the nut hole from the bottom starting the arc on the bolt remains and in circular motion upwards until you fill up the nut hole completely , wait a few seconds and unscrew the nut when it's still red/hot ... while unscrewing the nut you'll remove the broken bolt remains out also cos the bolt remains will be welded with the nut , and plus , the heat generated during the welding will help to burn the rust away from inside of the bolt hole threads .. Rgs ! Damir Edited July 26, 2008 by DamirGTI Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
djinuk 2 Posted July 26, 2008 awesome, damir if that works you are genious, i have a friend who is a very good welder so he will be getting a call, im guessing a 13mm nut wud be ideal Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
steve@cornwall 100 Posted July 26, 2008 Best thing to do is be more careful when undoing the bolt. By the looks of the remains, mine went years ago! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DamirGTI 342 Posted July 27, 2008 awesome, damir if that works you are genious, i have a friend who is a very good welder so he will be getting a call, im guessing a 13mm nut wud be ideal Yes 13mm nut will be best , been using 13mm one myself , anyway it'll be a piece of cake with an MIG welder ... better and so much easier then drilling the bolt remains .. you'll see Rgs ! Damir Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pug_ham 244 3 Cars Posted July 30, 2008 I got the old bumpstop bolts off from my car by wedlding another bolt to the bolt head but because yours has sheared off it'll be a but more awkward, good luck. Graham. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jrod 7 Posted July 30, 2008 The heads on mine were a total rusty mess but using some round off sockets and going very slowly I got them both out of my current shell. I learnt my lesson on my last shell that they shear easily! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CosKev 16 Posted July 30, 2008 Snapped one on my 309 Gti,I just knocked the remains of the bolt straight into the chassis section,very easy to do as captive nut must be held in with blue-tac!!!! This leaves a nice clean hole that I then put a steel Riv-nut into,brilliant things that my m8 uses when building his MK kitcars. These things: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...em=120287255293 All done and dusted : http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v46/coskev3/100_2329.jpg Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
djinuk 2 Posted July 31, 2008 how exactly do you use these rivit nuts ? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CosKev 16 Posted August 11, 2008 (edited) how exactly do you use these rivit nuts ? You need a riv nut tool,the one I have used is like a small puller,you thread it into the riv-nut and tighten it with two spanners,one holding the tool/riv-nut still and the other is turning/pulling the threaded part of riv-nut down and thus compresses the lower part of the riv-nut and squashes it out and fills the hole. Quick google will find you plenty of choice: http://www.winzerwurth.co.uk/Resources/Cat.../H04%203410.pdf Edited August 11, 2008 by CosKev Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tom Fenton 1,542 Posted August 12, 2008 If you have access to a welder why not take the easy way out and simply weld the cup to the shell, then fit the bush. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
