Advice On Spraying Bonnet And Wheels

[chocolate_o_brian 0]

right, two of the things i wish to do to my 205 are sort some fading paint on the bonnet and maybe re-spray my wheels a different colour...

 

bonnet first. if i buy some proper sanding paper for car paint, some grey primer, a couple of cans of graphite grey spray paint, and a spray can of laquer, could i repspay my bonnet myself with half decent effect? im quite naturally artistic, and thought i can only fcuk it up once

 

if so, whats the best method for this. ie preperation and timing... im a novice but willing to try myself.

 

next, wheels. they dont have any kerb marks i can see, so again i was assuming i could sand them down a little to roughen up for a coat of primer and then simply spray my choice of colour (grpahite grey or white). then simply spray with laquer to seal?

 

again has anyone experience of doing either/both of these, with simple cans of spray paint from halfords etc, and a steady hand?

 

i havent really the money for a complete wheel refurb and bonnet respray. priced up roughly what i think i would need and its certainly a lot cheaper than paying someone to do it.

 

advice and thoughts welcome as ever

 

andy

[johnnyboy666 195 1 Cars]

i'd definately say do the wheels yourself, unless you want show car finnish but thats just not what 205s are about!! i did mine in white with hammerite and im pretty impressed with the outcome, one of them i stripped with nitro-morse first to get the paint off, the others i just lightly sanded then sprayed and they all came out they same. i'd say lots of thin coats should give the best result. bare in mind if you're using primer meke sure id doesnt react with the topcoat cos thas just a pain in the arse! best thing is if you chip the paint (as i did trying to get a stuck locking wheel nut off) you can just touch it up easily.

 

as for the bonnet im not sure if rattle cans would be the best bet, and i wouldnt recomend halfords either, however i did recently get a can mixed up by a car paint company through ebay and was very impressed (bearing in mind my cars dark metallic green) it was a perfect match and was easy to get a good finnish but i did only paint the grill so cant vouch for a large pannel. you are right though it would be a lot cheaper and you can get a decent finnish sometimes.

anyway i'll stop rambling and let somebody who knows what theyre on about comment

[chocolate_o_brian 0]

i'd definately say do the wheels yourself, unless you want show car finnish but thats just not what 205s are about!! i did mine in white with hammerite and im pretty impressed with the outcome, one of them i stripped with nitro-morse first to get the paint off, the others i just lightly sanded then sprayed and they all came out they same. i'd say lots of thin coats should give the best result. bare in mind if you're using primer meke sure id doesnt react with the topcoat cos thas just a pain in the arse! best thing is if you chip the paint (as i did trying to get a stuck locking wheel nut off) you can just touch it up easily.

 

as for the bonnet im not sure if rattle cans would be the best bet, and i wouldnt recomend halfords either, however i did recently get a can mixed up by a car paint company through ebay and was very impressed (bearing in mind my cars dark metallic green) it was a perfect match and was easy to get a good finnish but i did only paint the grill so cant vouch for a large pannel. you are right though it would be a lot cheaper and you can get a decent finnish sometimes.

anyway i'll stop rambling and let somebody who knows what theyre on about comment

 

no, no appreciate your ramblings

 

so with regards to the wheels (if i leave the bonnet for now), what sort of preperation did you do?

obiovulsy i would take the wheels off and give them a 100% inside/out clean until perfectly clean and sealant free etc. is it a case of sanding down then with some wet/dry paper to roughen up the surface? or just a case of clean and spray?

 

i ask as whoever last painted the wheels looks to have used a brush as you can see stroke marks so i would like to sand them down and then either prime or go straight to the spraying of the rims them selves.

[steve@cornwall 100]

my efforts (with some good links from others)

http://forum.205gtidrivers.com/index.php?showtopic=90852

 

From this...

 

 

 

To this

 

 

This was halfords paint / lacquer used exactly as you described- turned out well. But some of their cans turned out patchy, no matter how well shaken and carefully applied. I've been using rattle can, inc. metallics for years and am confident that the patchy finish was not due to technique. you may be lucky with your cans ( i'd use 2 cans of graphite and 2 / 3 cans of lacquer- put the laquer on thick - built up with several, cured light coats of course to allow for flatting back

[johnnyboy666 195 1 Cars]

to be fair if you use hammerite like i did it doesnt really matter what prep you do lol. however obviously the better the surface is before hand the better its gonna be after the painting, so i'd say sand em down with some wet and dry to get a nice surface to start with, make sure theyre all clean and dust free and paint away, i didnt bother laquering mine although that does make it difficult to get rid off the brake dust which is the bain of my life with white wheels!

[mattbenselin 0]

Anyone know how much it costs to have a bonnet resprayed? Preferably near Coventry or Nottingham/Derby so Midlands? Steve you did a great job with your roof but I don't trust myself with the bonnet!

 

Cheers, Matt

[projectpug 0]

For respraying wheels i do them(start them) in 2 ways. If the paint on the wheel looks ok and is fairly original enough for me to trust it i

1) Get my black and decker mouse stick an 80 pad on it and go all over on it conventrating on getting most of the top layer of paint down and then if needed working on kerbed corrosion areas.

2)Once happy that most of the hard work is done i stick a 240 grade on the mouse/hand in the smaller areas and go all over with this.LAst stage i use is a quick with 400 .

3)High build prime the wheels in multiple coats if necesaary and flatten with 240/400 if needed.

4)Then spray on your base coat i have been doing lots of white speedlines and they require a fair few coates to bring the colour out properly.

5)Lastly a couple of coat of laquar allow to harden then maybe a quick polish / seal with rim wax to protect against hot brake dust. -Just makes them easier to clean and stops the laquar being eaten into by the hot brake dust i fnd this crucial when using ds3000 pads.

 

If wheels are bad then i use nitro moors on them to strip all the previous paint off.

 

Hope this helps

Phil

Edited November 12, 2008 by projectpug

[weejp 0]

Did mine on the cheap as the wheels are essentially a spare set so was prepared to give it go, nothing to lose. They had been out in the elements for years and were horrid. Thankfully no kerbing or major scratches but a couple of minor dents on 2 off the rims, not bad for £30.

 

Gave them a seriously good clean using a good degreaser. As the wheels were in reasonable condition I only had to fill minor discrepancies (dents, odd scratch) then used progressively finer sandpaper starting 120 grit onto 600 then 800 and finally 1500 grit (wet and dry) which made them so smooth.

 

Used a few coats of this as a primer http://www.screwfix.com/prods/29784/Paint/...lvanising-Spray flatting between coats and as it was silver I was tempted just to slap on this lacquer http://www.screwfix.com/prods/21687/Paint/...ish-Clear-400ml and job done. In the end I plumped for a couple of coats of wheel spray from Halfrauds before the lacquer (wish I hadn't bothered) and the end results were pretty good although the Halfrauds wheels paint was darker than expected.

[Arahan 4]

Is nitromoors tyre friendly then? I mean, would it have any adverse effects on my tyres if it came into contact with them, as im not taking them off to refurb!

 

And after that, would I be left with the bare metal, and use Acid etch primer?

[projectpug 0]

It is quite strong stuff very high in VOC. If you are leaving the tyre on i would probably advise against it as im quite sure that it is harmful to rubber. Its not really a problem you will just have to spend longer with the initial stronger grades i.e the 80 grit stage i mentioned in my original post.

 

And yes it does strip everything off to the metal

[NeilGTi85 5]

Seriously strong stuff.....Will burn through most stuff.

 

Use some wire wool once you have applied it and waited for 30sec's.....but be carefull as the wire wool can catch on fire!! (As i found out)

[chocolate_o_brian 0]

Bttt, as I'm back in the thinking of doing this now.

 

Looked on the Halfords website and they have varying types of wet/dry. I would hazard a guess that for the troublemsom grime/tar/brake dust that refuses to be degreased, a 120 grit with some serious leg work into it will suffice. Then a little more sanding with the higher numbers to get a smooth finish.

 

I'm just thinking of a time scale, as I will probably need a spare set of wheel/tyres so I'm not rushed.

 

Just trying to gee myself up and build confidence/make sure I'm 110% sure on whats to be done.

[platty 1]

120 to get the paint off, (or even 80), then onto 240 to smooth it off. cup of tea.... Panel wipe everything, then Acid etch primer if you've gone back to bare metal, then primer, Leave for 24hrs. Flat with 400 grit wet, cup of tea.... panel wipe, colour coat, Leave for 24hrs. Flat with 800 grit, cup of tea....panel wipe, lacquer, leave for 24hrs, flat with 1200 or 1500, polish with polishing compound, stand back and admire results.

 

I would invest in some 2k lacquer. It's available in a rattle can. Its a two part lacquer (pull the ring to mix then shake like mad) that sets really hard. Only thing is it has to be used fairly quickly as it will set in the can otherwise.

 

You might be able to adjust the curing time down if you can keep the wheels warm.

Edited February 12, 2009 by platty

[Alfie 6]

Bttt, as I'm back in the thinking of doing this now.

 

Looked on the Halfords website and they have varying types of wet/dry. I would hazard a guess that for the troublemsom grime/tar/brake dust that refuses to be degreased, a 120 grit with some serious leg work into it will suffice. Then a little more sanding with the higher numbers to get a smooth finish.

 

I'm just thinking of a time scale, as I will probably need a spare set of wheel/tyres so I'm not rushed.

 

Just trying to gee myself up and build confidence/make sure I'm 110% sure on whats to be done.

When I did my wheels, I deflated them,and broke the beads but left them on the rim. when finished, all you do is blow'em back up again. my last two, I didn't even have to do that. I found some thin alloy strips about 45" inches long and 6" wide and run it around the rim hard up against the tyre in order to mask them. you wouldn't know if you looked even closely. Used Scotchbright material too ,rather than wet and dry. I found that water used, just made the job more messy than was neccesary IMO and difficult to clear completely ready for spraying. hope this helps.

[chocolate_o_brian 0]

Thanks for the replies guys. Went to Halfords (I know but they're stuff has always been good in the past) and bought the following...

 

2x500 white primer

2x500ml gloss white spray

1x500ml laquer

 

1x wet/dry 120 grit

1x alu. oxide paper 60 grit

1x wet/dry assorted

1x preperation wipes

1x duck curved masking tape

 

Now my method will be the following...

 

Clean wheels best I can

Sand with aluminium oxide paper 60

Sand with wet/dry 120

Smooth off with assorted wet/dry medium/fine 240-1200

Paint prep wipes for dust and crap

Build up about 4 layers of primer with flatting between coats

Build up about 4 layers of colour coat flatting between coats

2/3 layers of laquer on top

 

I think the above would see me respectable results. Also, whats the deal with wet/dry. I presume you can either sand wet or dry with the same paper, so whats the deal/differences/bonuses etc. I'm a novice so extra advice welcomes.

[djinuk 2]

when using wet and dry, take 1 bucket, fill with warm water, and washing up liquid, then take a a4 strip of wet/dry paper and slice into 4 peices , take 1 of the 4 bits and fold it in 3 so it folds ontop of itself (by doing this when sanding it will take on itself if that makes sence and not slip about), dunk the wet and dry in the bucket and keep lubricated with this mix when using it. You will find due to the water and washing up liquid its very smooth and fast to use and produces good results.

[platty 1]

Yep, as above....although I just tear it in half and then fold into three, but either or.

 

I was taught when sanding wet, soak the paper for a few minutes then start sanding until you hear the tone of the sanding change, at this point the paper is loaded with paint so, dunk the paper and continue sanding.

 

You can get away with murder when painting in white so what I just said doesn't really apply, especially if its just a set of wheels. Have fun and remember.....its all in the preperation.

 

Don't forget, we want to see the results

[chocolate_o_brian 0]

Excellent lads. so when is it best to use Wet/dry paper then? The finer sanding or the course sanding?

 

As above I'm trying to get a good preperation without getting to anal about it.

[platty 1]

When flating the primer and top coats its best to do wet. The early stages I'd do dry.

[chocolate_o_brian 0]

When flating the primer and top coats its best to do wet. The early stages I'd do dry.

 

 

Ah, good. So the wet sanding is more for finer grit, as a finisher?

 

Can I ask why its best to flatten inbetween coats of primer? Always wondered thats all, as I don't wanna end up with a flat white colour after spraying.

[platty 1]

No need to flat between primer coats. Flat the primer when your happy you have good coverage, and its cured. Same with the colour and clear coats

[chocolate_o_brian 0]

No need to flat between primer coats. Flat the primer when your happy you have good coverage, and its cured. Same with the colour and clear coats

 

So after flatting the primer when I'm happy, simply apply several light coats of the colour itself. But then flatten the laquer after applying that? Apologies on my ignorance

[platty 1]

Add the colour, then flat that with some 800/1200 to get rid of any imperfections, then add lacquer, then flat the lacquer with 1200/1500 and polish with some cutting compound, to bring the shine back that you just removed by flatting. (don't forget to panel wipe after every wet flatting)

 

It depends how anal you are about the finish. As your painting in white, you could get away without the flatting of the colour coat, and still have a perfectly acceptable finish.

[chocolate_o_brian 0]

Add the colour, then flat that with some 800/1200 to get rid of any imperfections, then add lacquer, then flat the lacquer with 1200/1500 and polish with some cutting compound, to bring the shine back that you just removed by flatting. (don't forget to panel wipe after every wet flatting)

 

It depends how anal you are about the finish. As your painting in white, you could get away without the flatting of the colour coat, and still have a perfectly acceptable finish.

 

Excellent. So if I do flat the laquer, using something like Autoglym super resin polish with an applicator pad should bring back the shine? But obviously dont use any polish or cutting compound until the laquer is on? Think I have a good idea now of what to expect cheers!

[platty 1]

Let the lacquer harden, then flat it back until the shine goes. You can polish it up with Super Resin afterwards, but you need something with a 'cutting' action like t-cut, or even better, cutting compound(Think Halfords sell it) to get the shine to return to the lacquer.