DamirGTI 342 Posted July 21, 2008 Hi ! Right , im fairy new to this painting jobs so i need a few pointers : I've bought etch primer , high build cellulose primer/filler and black cellulose top coat paint . However i dunno how much i need to thin these paints for spraying with a spray gun ?! ... there's nothing written on the tins regarding thinning ratio and i can't find any info on the net for that precise color brand cos their website is currently under construction .. (it's an domestic low cost paint manufacturer ..) Next , how much pressure i need to set when spraying cellulose primer/filler , and how much when applying top coat cellulose paint ? I have spray gun with std. 1.5mm nozzle , it says in the spray gun instructions : Air consumption 150-250 l/min Working pressure 4-8 bar Maximum pressure amounts to 8 bar ... it also says that , when painting , air pressure must not exceed 4.5 bar value . Thanks ! Damir Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tom Fenton 1,541 Posted July 21, 2008 Primer thin it approx 60% primer to 40% thinners Top coat first few coats (you need to put on lots of coats with celly) 50%/50% Top coat final coat thinner, maybe 40%paint 60% thinners, this helps it flash off quicker and give a better sheen from the gun. I use 40-50psi at the gun. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DamirGTI 342 Posted July 21, 2008 Excellent Thanks for info Tom Damir Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pugman211 0 Posted July 22, 2008 Damir, Dont use cellulose paint. Its cheap and nasty for reason. You will get far better results with 2-pack (2k) paint. Its easier to use, and easier to apply. Also, cellulose takes ages to dry, where as 2 pack will dry overnite. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tom Fenton 1,541 Posted July 22, 2008 Unless you have a proper air fed mask don't even consider using 2k paint, the health risks are well documented and really not worth it. The other thing with 2k is that any overspray in the air lands wet and then dries. With cellulose any overspray dries and lands as dust. What this means is that when you've done your painting, a good blow round and sweep and the crap is gone with cellulose, but with 2k anything and everything it landed on now has a dried on speckled finish. Not quite sure why you've mentioned cellulose takes ages to dry? Within 10-15 mins a layer of topcoat will dry out to be touch dry, within 24hrs it has hardened off sufficiently that you can wet-flat it with 1200/1500 grit and then compound it back. Don't get me wrong, 2k is definitely the superior product for finish and durability, but it really isn't home use friendly. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DamirGTI 342 Posted July 22, 2008 Unless you have a proper air fed mask don't even consider using 2k paint, the health risks are well documented and really not worth it. Don't get me wrong, 2k is definitely the superior product for finish and durability, but it really isn't home use friendly. Correct ... thats why i choose to paint with cellulose paint - 2pack is dangerous for DIY use , it's a bit toxic as far as aim aware (contains Isocyanate ..) , so the next option was cellulose paint cos i wanted a paint which will dry out reasonably quick , and it dries really fast compared to enamels (oil based paints) which needs ages to dry out and can pick up every scrap of neighborhood dust while it does so . Anyway i just need to paint a few pieces of the bodywork , not a whole car Rgs ! Damir Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
M@tt 77 Posted July 22, 2008 whats 1 pak paint like is it a compromise between the 2? i think thats the stuff they gave me from the paint shop when i got some to do my CTI engine bay(MIPO brand). I had no idea what i was getting but it seemed ok to use albeit it for me being a bit of a mong on the gun at times Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
toddydal 1 Posted July 22, 2008 cellulose dries very quickly as it dries through thinner evaporation,i would say on a hot day it should be ok to wet flat or dry flat the primer within 2 hours no problem as long as you dont hammer it on and get runs every where,2 pack dries with a reaction to the hardener and that will be ok to rub down over night but with out the proper air fed masks you shoudnt even consider using 2 pack paint,the etch primer and cellulose paints are useally thinned 50/50 with thinner,its 20yrs since i used cellulose paints so im not 100%,but for the primer make it a bit thicker but if you get you repairs decent you wont need to make it to thick Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Paintguy 0 Posted July 22, 2008 I'm with Tom on this one, and in fact I was going to use this exact sentence after I saw 2 pack mentioned: 2k is definitely the superior product for finish and durability, but it really isn't home use friendly. Also, if you do make any mistakes, then celly is much easier to work with from a rectification point of view (sanding out runs / dirt / moths and spiders ) Just check that the etch primer isn't marked RFU (ready for use) as sometimes it comes ready thinned, and can be sprayed on directly out of the tin. If it doesn't say, then you can get an idea by it's viscosity. If it's runny, then it's RFU, if it's a bit thicker (like yoghurt) then it requires thinning. Celly primer is usually thinned 50/50, but the mixture Tom mentions will go on nice and thick to give you plenty of build, and your 1.5 nozzle will cope with it well enough. To be honest though, your supplier should have given you an MSDS data sheet on all the products, outlining their uses and Health and Safety issues. I'd give them a call first just to double check. Matt - Celly is a form of 1K (single component) paint, but I seem to remember yours being acrylic. Either are much safer to use than 2K, but neither can match it's durability. Having said that though, I regularly have this discussion (read argument), with a DIY painter on another forum, and as he rightly points out, there are custom cars going around with 20 year old cellulose paints jobs that would still put most modern (2K painted) cars to shame. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DamirGTI 342 Posted July 22, 2008 Hi ! Regarding the etch primer , this one needs thinning and yes it's a bit thick ingredients inside , like yogurt Im usually buying this painting stuff in one specialized store , in which i can always ask of advice or recommendation about appropriate product for the application , health/safety hazards etc. but that shop is roughly 40miles away from my local so i didn't fancy driving there especially now during the summer when it's tourist season over here (loads of cars on the tiny bumpy roads , regular traffic jams etc.) ... so i bought this color in local village store (was asking for some "quick drying" 1pak paint and the guy who works there keeps on admonish me - you need enamel paint , that's the right one for your job ! i said NO !!! hell no , i want some fast drying paint nitrocellulose or acrylic based , not an old farty oil based ages to dry out product .. so that explains why he doesn't have any health hazard warning brochures for his stock products , he doesn't have a clue about painting at all , bar the painting old rusty boat or fence i've been there at least 30min. listening his monologue about suitable paint types until i spotted cellulose paint on the shelf , so picked this one by myself ) Thanks ! Damir Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
