Leaky Sump & Sump Bolt Thread Size *urgent*

[Gaz-2006 0]

Hi there,

 

My 205 race cars oil leak worsened today whilst it was on the rolling road and it is seriously dripping out now.. I removed the sump and when trying to replace the sump and doing the bolts up, the threads inside the block 'gave up' so they are now threaded... I'm going to try and tap the thread again, but it looks like its an M7 thread, I was wondering if anybody knew the thread pitch? if it was m7x0.75mm or m7x1mm?

 

Also, if anybody has encountered (i'm sure im not alone..) the leaky sump problem (mine is leaking next to the flywheel and at the back of the engine and dripping along there) - I would love to know what you used to get it to seal?!

 

I don't normally like using a gasket and sealant/RTV on both sides of the gasket as in my view it would create more leakage points, but is this what you guys do? Or do you fit the sump gasketless and just use the RTV to seal it?

 

Also, the sump torque setting.. I used 20nm as the haynes/autodata suggested and then went to 25nm to try and stop the leak. Has anybody ever gone any higher to stop the leak?

 

Any answers very much appreciated as I have to leave for Donington Park by 10/11ish in the morning tomorrow!!!

 

Cheers,

 

Gary

[welshpug 1,657]

M7x1, and an M16 x 1.5 plug on most XU engines.

 

going tighter on the bolts wont help in any way, which engine is it?

 

the general rule used to be steel sump used a gasket alone, alloy sumps used sealant, most peugeot sumps are fitted with sealant now though.

 

apply a bead of sealant to the sump, let it go tacky, at least half an hour, make sure the block is spotless then fit the sump, taking care not to over tighten.

 

one thing worth checking is whether the sump is straight with a straightedge/steel rule

[Cameron 16]

I feel your pain.. It took 3 attempts to get my sump to seal, RTV which leaked then fibre gasket which leaked a lot then RTV again. If you have any bolts missing that can increase your chances of leaks so make sure you have them all.

[Gaz-2006 0]

Sorry about the lack of info - its an XU5JA 1.6 GTI... It has a steel sump also.

 

The sump has had baffles welded in to it which could have caused it to warp but i doubt it very much as they are only spot welds!

 

So just to clarify.. You managed to get the sump to seal in the end by using RTV? And to just apply a bead of sealant all the way along it? What type of RTV (does it dry hard or semi hard, and what colour was it?)

 

Thanks for the info too on the thread sizes.. going to purchase a tap & die set with the m7x1 included as soon as screwfix open in the morning! Hopefully I can reclaim th M7 threads otherwise my backup plan is to drill out the holes and tap an M8 thread.. but hopefully I wont need to do that!

 

Cheers once again

 

Gary

[philfingers 5]

could helicoil it http://cgi.ebay.com/Helicoil-Type-7mm-thre...Q2em118Q2el1247

could be that by overtightening you have bent the tin sump slightly at the bolt holes.

 

I use Blue Hylomar, smear it one with your fingers or a brush, so you don't get too much on as it comes loose and the oil pumps sucks it up!