Fast Road Jay 0 Posted July 17, 2008 first of all a bit of info on my car....... i bought my gti back in november and over winter, stripped it, caged it and painted it with underseal after sorting the rust patches. since then i have litterally sunk a fortune into it trying to get it mint again but now i have a new problem! from when i bought it it had a knocking noise from the passenger side, i first changed the wishbones as they were shot, next i spotted movemeant in the n/s steering arm joint so fitted a new rack and rod ends, the noise went away for a while but then came back complete with a groaning noise on bumps and a knock / bang that can be felt in the passenger footwell so i got it up in the air and checked every bolt, pulled the subframe down and checked it and eventually fount my fr ns shocker to be sticking a bit so i bought a complete new tarmac spec suspension set up, all fitted and the noise is now worse than ever and i have checked everything again and gone to a garage to have it checked and they cant sus it out either. the noise also happens as i go from lock to lock stationary now so im wondering if the roll bar is jamming then twanging back or something! next problem - i have spotted a hairline crack forming above the rear window and i am told its a common week spot so im a little worried about what else could start to give especially as i am soon fitting my re-con rear beam with solid mounts so i am seriously considering having the car seam welded but i dont know how much its gonna cost, i know the basics of seam welding a car - weld an inch leave 2 etc and go all round and i am a competant welder but i really dont fancy doing it! apart from bracing the rear as well im stuck for other ways to remove chassis flex and stop it cracking or twisting! a few pics and spec on it i know it wont be to everyones taste! full st tropez bodykit full 2004 307 WRC graphics pack lowered 50mm on tarmac spec springs and dampers 15" rims de-badge mesh grill CAT1 alarm de-wipered back drilled & grooved brakes fast road brake pads dtm mirrors full stainless exhaust system 4 branch manifold FSE boost valve K&N Induction kit ported headlight Pug performance ECU Strut brace Stripped interior OMP 3 point harnesses Bucket Seats OMP ultra light weight roll cage OMP super turismo steering wheel Recon spare wheel boot mounted Switch panel fire extinguisher kill switch rally name graphics clear oval side repeaters de-locked passenger door new parts fitted: alternator steering rack wishbones wheel hub drive shafts Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
welshpug 1,649 Posted July 17, 2008 sounds like your top mount bearings are a bit seized. as for the crack in the 1/4 panel above the window its where the seam sealer is drying up and cracking, it wont fall apart though. to fix it dig all the sealer out, prep and re-apply seam sealer and re-paint. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fast Road Jay 0 Posted July 17, 2008 assuming you mean the top of the damper would you recommend the rubber bush being replaced with a grpN or similar then?? as for the cracking seam sealer then i might just leave it a while but with the cage, strut brace, piss all suspension movemeant and solid beam mounts im still planning on seam welding it as the 205 is still a bit too flexi at the mo lol any ideas on a price?? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fast Road Jay 0 Posted July 17, 2008 i suppose if the mounts are seizing that explains why its got worse since they came apart to have the new dampers fitted?? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
base-1 17 Posted July 18, 2008 If you're a good welder do it yourself, it's a fair bit of labour getting to everywhere so you may aswell just do it for cost of gas and wire and your own spare time. Attach the cage to the car at more points aswell like the A pillar, roof, maybe a tunnel brace etc, and gussets at joins Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
johnsimister 10 Posted July 19, 2008 Re the knock/groan etc, it could be a truly dead anti-roll bar drop link. I had one in which the top joint seized to make the groaning noise, and another in which the bottom joint wore out to make the knocking noise which, like yours, could be felt in the passenger footwell. Maybe you have one that's gone at both ends. Turning lock-to-lock could make the seized upper joint stick, let go a bit, stick, let go again etc, creating more knocks and bangs. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fast Road Jay 0 Posted July 24, 2008 fitted new top mounts last weekend and it stopped the groaning but the knock is still there so along with other bits i picked up new drop links and roll bar bushes today from GSF ......... HOPEFULLY this will be the end of it as there isnt much left to be replaced lol Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
steve@cornwall 100 Posted July 24, 2008 Re the knock/groan etc, it could be a truly dead anti-roll bar drop link. I had one in which the top joint seized to make the groaning noise, and another in which the bottom joint wore out to make the knocking noise which, like yours, could be felt in the passenger footwell. Maybe you have one that's gone at both ends. Turning lock-to-lock could make the seized upper joint stick, let go a bit, stick, let go again etc, creating more knocks and bangs. Agreed^^ Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fast Road Jay 0 Posted July 30, 2008 still havent got my car back the 1.9 beam that was getting re-conned is seized solid internally so im stuck trying to get a new one or my garage is gonna try and convert my 1.6 one to 1.9 disks etc but im running outta time cos i want it for USC at the weekend!!!! new drop links, top mounts, roll bar bushes, suspension kit, front callipers, pads and disks are all done but the beam re-con work is holding it up big time now so im getting a lil stressed that it wont be done in time Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mattmk1 0 Posted July 31, 2008 still havent got my car back the 1.9 beam that was getting re-conned is seized solid internally so im stuck trying to get a new one or my garage is gonna try and convert my 1.6 one to 1.9 disks etc but im running outta time cos i want it for USC at the weekend!!!! new drop links, top mounts, roll bar bushes, suspension kit, front callipers, pads and disks are all done but the beam re-con work is holding it up big time now so im getting a lil stressed that it wont be done in time Dead easy to swap 1.6 to 1.9 if you have a complete 1.9 beam. Only four allen headed bolts hold on the brake caliper mounting bracket, and it just screws straight into the holes for the brake shoe backing plate. Then throw on the 1.9 hubs. Couple hours work tops. Knocking steering could be lower universal joint on the steering coloumn. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
