Atari Boy 11 Posted July 9, 2008 I have given in and am going to get my beam rebuilt by a grown up. Whilst it is in bits, I thought I would give all the parts a lick of Hammerite. This may sound like a stupid question but are there any tips to doing a decent job. Things to avoid doing etc. I planned to clean all the crap off the parts, sand down as necessary, and then paint? Anything else to consider? I was thinking of using paint instead of the spray as it will give better quality coverage, and less runs . Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GLPoomobile 958 Posted July 9, 2008 From recent experience, I think you'll find you're more likely to end up with runs using the brush on stuff than with the spray, unless you are careful. It's also difficult not to end up with brush lines. Having said that, I had problems with 3 different cans of Hammerite with the nozzles blocking and the can losing pressure well before it had run out of paint. Not impressed with it at all Even Halfords spray paints seem like top quality stuff to use compared to the Hammerite cans I had! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Baz 421 Posted July 9, 2008 Hammerite rattle cans seem to be crap recently... With decent brush on paint used liberally you won't get brush marks really, for something like a beam it'd be ideal IMO. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Miles 331 1 Cars Posted July 9, 2008 Just get it Powder coated, Saves allot of hassle and isn;t that much money, thats how I get mine done Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Atari Boy 11 Posted July 10, 2008 Just get it Powder coated, Saves allot of hassle and isn;t that much money, thats how I get mine done I like your thinking. The problem I will have is that not all of the parts are completely stripped and I don’t have the ability/tools to do so. Are there any bits that can’t be done? The main tube for example, I still have the seals and bearing etc in it. Could I take that to be powder coated? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CosKev 16 Posted July 10, 2008 Powder coating is the best job by far,but only if the beam is completely stripped. Painted mine off my 309,came out quite well I think Wire brush attachment in the drill first,then used some Loctite rust treatment on the areas of surface rust,then a good coat of aerosol primer,then brush painted metal paint http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v46/coskev3/100_2282.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v46/coskev3/100_2328.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v46/coskev3/100_2283.jpg Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Atari Boy 11 Posted July 10, 2008 That looks wicked. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
damien 22 1 Cars Posted July 11, 2008 That looks wicked. 2nd that, it looks great Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dirtdog 4 Posted July 11, 2008 Are there any bits that can’t be done? The main tube for example, I still have the seals and bearing etc in it. Could I take that to be powder coated? they can mask these bits off, but i'm not sure about them goin in the oven though im guessing it'd burn the seals? i'd probably use hammertite on a beam Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Atari Boy 11 Posted July 11, 2008 My plan is to paint most of the parts with Hammerite, I may get the torsion bars powder coated and the brake yokes... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
welshpug 1,657 Posted July 11, 2008 (edited) just pop the seals out, should be replaced anyway the Oven used in the powdercoating process doesn't go that hot infact, the most common material used to plug threaded holes are rubber bungs, masking tape will suffice for any other areas. if you strip it down to the tube assembly, take the seals off and cover the ends (tape up the metal ring that holds the seal and block the end of the tube up) then for the trailing arms just plug any bolt holes, mask off all the bearing surfaces (arm shaft and hub carrier) torsion bars just cover the splines up, don't forget to mark the left and right bars, wind an M8 bolt into the end of them to give the guy's something to hang the bars off. all you need to get this far are normal tools; 13mm spanner/socket, 18, 19 and 21mm spanner/socket, T45 torx bit. screwdriver, Lump hammer/sledge (not always necessary) getting it apart and cleaned up is the most time consuming bit, it'll save you a fair bit of money even if you get someone to pop the new seals and bearings in and pop it all back together for you. Edited July 11, 2008 by welshpug Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Atari Boy 11 Posted July 11, 2008 just pop the seals out, should be replaced anyway the Oven used in the powdercoating process doesn't go that hot infact, the most common material used to plug threaded holes are rubber bungs, masking tape will suffice for any other areas. if you strip it down to the tube assembly, take the seals off and cover the ends (tape up the metal ring that holds the seal and block the end of the tube up) then for the trailing arms just plug any bolt holes, mask off all the bearing surfaces (arm shaft and hub carrier) torsion bars just cover the splines up, don't forget to mark the left and right bars, wind an M8 bolt into the end of them to give the guy's something to hang the bars off. all you need to get this far are normal tools; 13mm spanner/socket, 18, 19 and 21mm spanner/socket, T45 torx bit. screwdriver, Lump hammer/sledge (not always necessary) getting it apart and cleaned up is the most time consuming bit, it'll save you a fair bit of money even if you get someone to pop the new seals and bearings in and pop it all back together for you. Thanks Welshpug, you are probably right, but I am scared silly of c*cking it up. I am sure this has be covered millions of times before but could you explain in basic terms how I would remove the bearings, apart from that the tube is stripped. If possible I would love to get it powder coated. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ahl 4 Posted July 11, 2008 I shotblasted my beam tube and torsion bars, after covering up the important bits of course! After that I cleaned them with some alcohol and they were easy to paint with some red oxide paint, then hammerite. Maybe you could see if there are any local engineering firms willing to shotblast the bits for not much cash? I always hear that proper painting is more durable than powdercoating. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pug_ham 244 3 Cars Posted July 11, 2008 don't forget to mark the left and right bars. The torsion bars should already be marked from new, even if it has faded to almost being un-recognisable all the beams I've stripped have still had the markings. One ring for R/H & two rings for L/H. I am sure this has be covered millions of times before but could you explain in basic terms how I would remove the bearings, apart from that the tube is stripped. http://www.205gtidrivers.com/articles.php?...-rearbeamrefurb All covered in there, with pictures. Outer bearings can't be removed without making them scrap but its easier to replace them all anyway, even the inner ones. Graham. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Atari Boy 11 Posted July 19, 2008 I have just painted the tube with a roller and hammerite and it looks great, easy too. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites