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chrisj21

Gear Linkage

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pike_1.9cti
If you adjust them you change the position of the gearstick, you'll end up with it hitting the seats etc.

 

IIRC the haynes manual has a method for adjusting them but if you can engage all gears without hitting the seats and with the gearstick in a sane position when its in neutral you can't go wrong really.

 

Brilliant!!

 

Thanks for that, that explains the reason why the gearstick is nearly touching the seats.

 

ben

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Miles

I normally position the gearstick in a central position and adjust the rods to suit, Makes a world of differance to the position of them and you don;t hit the seat's in reverse

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djinuk

i have a constella quick shift and rods, and i just set tthem the same as the ones that came of, however i noticed that mine does feel a little lose at times, and makes a lot of noise if you switch between the gears when the cars is off. (rattley)

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craig f90
Just a slight change of topic, There will be a new kit available for the bushes in the 'L' part of the linkage, With this fitted again you gain a more positive and shorter change as there will be zero movement on the 'L' only rotation

I'll be ordering one of those kits along with the rods too. Nice one Miles. :)

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humanz
I'll be ordering one of those kits along with the rods too. Nice one Miles. :lol:

 

How soon will this new kit be available? I'll order my gearrods the same time, once I've got the money.

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S13Nick

for the rose-jointed ones, it says requires welding etc?????????????????????

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Miles

There's not much point going for the rose jointed one's on road car's as they need maintenance compared to the std ball's,

On BE1 boxes the rose jointed ones are easier to fit due to the arm design, The BE3 need's some work and most people weld a stud the in the end of the arm and it's best to seld stud's on everywhere else too.

The 'L' kit should be around 1 week, Just in the final stages of machining

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craig f90
There's not much point going for the rose jointed one's on road car's as they need maintenance compared to the std ball's,

On BE1 boxes the rose jointed ones are easier to fit due to the arm design, The BE3 need's some work and most people weld a stud the in the end of the arm and it's best to seld stud's on everywhere else too.

The 'L' kit should be around 1 week, Just in the final stages of machining

Have you got the 3 rod kit in yet miles?

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mercury

Hi guys,

 

sorry for resurrecting this thread. I just have a question regarding the removal of the rods. How do you safely and easily remove the rods? TO you need a crow bar to pop them off?

 

Cheers,

Merc

Edited by mercury

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jackherer

I find an open ended spanner pretty good for levering them off.

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oli-pug

Has anybody tried the Compbrake gear lever and linkage bushes yet???

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Guest 205bandit

Ive just got some OE Peugeot ones, does anyone know what the bag of black plastic (and one white) bits do?

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welshpug
Ive just got some OE Peugeot ones, does anyone know what the bag of black plastic (and one white) bits do?

 

:( not without a picture or a part number!

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Ethos

How much are Pug OE ones?

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Guest 205bandit

I think about 47 or 49 quid, without VAT

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humanz
There's not much point going for the rose jointed one's on road car's as they need maintenance compared to the std ball's,

On BE1 boxes the rose jointed ones are easier to fit due to the arm design, The BE3 need's some work and most people weld a stud the in the end of the arm and it's best to seld stud's on everywhere else too.

 

What's involved in maintaining the rose jointed ones?

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Miles

The cheaper rose joint's need Cleaning, greasing & Checking often, The more expensive PFTE type one's are allot more maintenance free but as with everything the cost is almost twice as much, other than that nothing at all

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mercury

would it be ok to lube the new linkages with Vaseline (petroleum jelly) if you done have grease handy?

 

Ive also got fish oil and WD 40.

 

Cheers,

Merc

Edited by mercury

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