Moved The Crank With The Head Off!

[c_r_thomson 0]

Update, filled the block with water and left it over night........ bad news!

 

Leaks!!! Gonna try removing the liners today.

 

Thanks for the advice guys.

[Cameron 16]

Did you have the head on?

[ALEX 98 1 Cars]

Update, filled the block with water and left it over night........ bad news!

 

Leaks!!! Gonna try removing the liners today.

 

Thanks for the advice guys.

 

 

Remember use something soft when tapping them out. A piece of old broom handle will be perfect.

[pug_ham 244 3 Cars]

When I first got my black gti I took the engine out removed the head off to make it easier for me to carry into the house on my own.

 

I forgot to remove the flywheel & when carrying it downstairs to put it on my engine stand the flywheel turned & disturbed two liners.

 

That engine had done 108k & they all came out easily.

 

IMO its just not worth the risk. Just because they aren't moving easily doesn't mean they haven't moved a millimetre which is all thats needed to break a 10yr + old thin piece of rubber. (iirc some of the earlier XU engines had papaer seals which would be even more likely to tear).

 

Graham.

[pugman211 0]

I stand corrected, glad you did the test, now its hammer time!!!! lol

 

Just to add aswell, i used a old block of 2x3" soft wood to remove liners. Tapping them top/bottom/left/right and so forth till they popped out.

[c_r_thomson 0]

all worked out fine,

 

Removed the sump, oil pump and rotated the crank until all bearing clamps were removed. The bearing are in great condition so glad there!

 

The liners did take a "bit of persuading" but nothing too rough. Used the wooden handle from a hammer and tapped on all edges until removed. It was obvious which seal was leaking when it came out in 2 parts! Cleaned up both block and liners and refitted 180 degrees round with new seals (so flimsy!)

 

All in all, not a bad job with the engine out!

 

Thanks for all the advice guys

 

Craig

[ALEX 98 1 Cars]

When You replaced the liners each at 180°, you did keep the pistons pointing in the original direction with the dist arrow pointing towards the timing belt didn't you?

 

While they were out too, you might has well replaced the rings, as they aren't that expensive!

Guaranteed to give you a performance increase if the existing ones are over 100k old

[c_r_thomson 0]

Oh balls!!! that's what i get for being a novice and carrying out all this work myself!!!!!

 

I didn't check, Does anyone know the orientation of the notches on the con rods? I was thinking it would be easier to take the sump off and look at the orientation of the nothces on the bottom of the con rods instead of taking the head off again. i.e. check if all the notches are at the top/bottom will tell me what way round the pistons are.

 

so annoyed with myself

 

The engines done 80k and with piston rings coming in at £65 on Autofive, it's an expense i'd rather not have.

[ALEX 98 1 Cars]

Oh balls!!! that's what i get for being a novice and carrying out all this work myself!!!!!

 

I didn't check, Does anyone know the orientation of the notches on the con rods? I was thinking it would be easier to take the sump off and look at the orientation of the nothces on the bottom of the con rods instead of taking the head off again. i.e. check if all the notches are at the top/bottom will tell me what way round the pistons are.

 

so annoyed with myself

 

The engines done 80k and with piston rings coming in at £65 on Autofive, it's an expense i'd rather not have.

 

. I did same mistake myself!

AFAIR The notches for the bearings in the con rods go to the bulkhead side in the engine (was a while a go though , so no exactly sure).

You can't rotate them with the crank in place either, I tried that, we ended up having to remove the head!

The engine will still run OK has the valves will still mis, just the performance will be affected slightly.

 

£65 for rings sounds expensive, must be OE ones. Shop around for a better price. IMO the cheaper ones arn't always bad quality.