Ignition Barrel Wires And My Immobiliser

[dch1950 37 1 Cars]

HI all,

I last posted about problems with my ignition /steering column lock. I realised that I'd more or less answered my own question. Any way I got a new ignition barrel and dropped that in last thurs.So far so good. My immobiliser was fitted by a so called approved dealer (Autowatch 239Ti) and what a lash up it was. I say was as I'd had to strip out/disconnect where it was spliced into the main wire out of the barrel (an orange wire).The immobiliser +12v feed i presume.

I replaced the black wire pair (from the immobiliser 4 way plug) in the loop in with proper guage stuff and new crimps.

Plugged everthing back in and got ready to test my work.

Bugger - the new ignition switch works fine (my accessories now stay switched on) but starter won't spin - just a click,also the central locking doesn't work off my keyfob.

My question(s) are

1) what do each of the 2 sets of wires from the barrel (1x4,1x2) do ? or put another way have I cut the right wire.

2) Is the central locking enabled by the immobiliser or is it an alarm related function?

I thought I'd replicated the original wiring but obviously somethings not right. The immobiliser status led flashes OK,which the user manual says indicates system healthy.All other immobiliser connects are untouched.

PS went to re-check wiring yesterday am and found the battery was flat as the proverbial - it's now on charge.

Can any one help me here as Autowatch (aka Knightwatch Ltd ) flatly refuse to help even though the immobiliser was fitted by them and I am the registered owner/user of the damn thing.

regards

Dave

[Tommer 0]

if it was just clicking when trying to turn the engine over, this may be down the fact your battery was flat (may not be related to the changes you made) worth testing that. if its an aftermarket alarm/immob does the LED still mean system healthy, could just mean a flashing LED.

 

if you connected the wires to the same ones on a new barrel it should all be fine, did you disconnect the battery before doing the work?

 

I bought a replacement ignition barrel but it turned out some of the wires were switched around in the block so they needed to be swapped around the match, might be worth checking too.

 

i would start with trying it with a nicely charged battery and seeing how you get on. if it still clicks after that you may have a more serious prob, does the immob need resetting should the battery die / it get disconnected, might be worth checking.

 

thats my thoughts, hope it offers some help?

 

tommer

[dch1950 37 1 Cars]

Hi Tommer,

Thanx for your input - you can sometimes disappear up your own a**e when you get to tied in to a problem.

I recharged my battery and re-fitted this AM. This reset the alarm - and central locking was working.Phew!!

I had not disconnected the battery when I origonally started.

I then used my trusty meter to work out the barrel wiring and determined the following:

1) The + 12V unswitched feed from the battery comes in via the brown 4 way socket in my case red/yellow on the loom side connecting to 2 off white wires to ignition switch.

2) the starter feed wire is the orange one from the barrel.

3) the accessories feed is green (spliced into 2 feeds to the white connector)

 

I then cracked open the immobiliser box - I was a little disappointed by what was actually in there, A single sided PCB with 2 off siemens relays a single chip to to decode the touch key and a few blocking diodes. (cost of bits £20) cost of immobiliser !"£..

However, I then took out the link (via the orange barrel wire) to the immobiliser. The starter turned. Now we're getting some where.

I then connected the input sockets to the immobiliser (touchkey,led, and some unkown).

Used the touch key and checked for the 30 sec timeout to re-arm on a no-start. IT WORKS.

I have deduced that my 2 relay outputs switch the fuel pump and the starter feed.

Equally I think that that some sort of reset was needed but I didn't know how to do it.

How the system stops from re-arming itself with the engine running I haven't quite worked out but it must be related to something like alternator o/p. Still I'll work it out eventually and post it on here.

Thanx again mate.

regards

Dave.