Goodwood Rims

[steve@cornwall 100]

I decided I wanted some goodwood style wheels, so started today re-furbing the rather tatty speedlines I have. I shaved the kerbing damage out with a serrated knife!!! Surprisingly effective, before flatting it all out with emery paper and increasingly fine wet and dry paper and then polishing by hand. It's come out pretty well, but I do ache now, and have only polished one!!! There must be an easier way... (apart from paying..........)

 

Also what is the best way to laquer these? I'm assuming it's mask the polished bit, paint the grey (graphite?) then remove masking and apply lacquer to all? but then there is no key on the shiny bits and the lacquer will surely lift ?

 

I can't justify paying out 200+ on a set, but I reckon it's damned good value after trying to do it myself.

[Baz 421]

I have a mop/grinder thing witha sanding attachment, i use various grits of sand paper down to about 400, then the rest is by hand, down to 1200, then i have a drill attachment (kinda like a hard cotton bud) and a couple of polish/cutting compound bars, then finally autosol or similar.

 

Hard work...

[Baz 421]

Oh, and the ones i've got to the point of lacquering, i haven't, with the same fear you have. There has to be a certain type of acquer that will stick though.

[welshpug 1,657]

I cleaned mine up about a year ago and they've yet to tarnish much, quick go with the autosol and they're back to mirror finish

[2-Pugs 57]

I just had mine refurb'd and apparantly, they spray the whole wheel grey then turn the rim to remove the paint back to bare metal. It would be, I am told, difficult to mask it perfectly around the wheel so that's why they do it that way.

The rims should be left unlaquered. if they are laquered, over time it will go yellowy and eventually flake off. What's recommended is to use Autosol metal polish on the bare metal regularly. Don't use wonder wheels or anything like that if you can avoid it.

If your arms can keep going, and your in no particular hurry, then keep going with your refurb, the results will be worth it Otherwise, I can recomend the sets from Tony_205 off here. The finish is brilliant and they were almost half the price of my local refurb place.

[sonofsam 5]

I decided I wanted some goodwood style wheels, so started today re-furbing the rather tatty speedlines I have. I shaved the kerbing damage out with a serrated knife!!! Surprisingly effective, before flatting it all out with emery paper and increasingly fine wet and dry paper and then polishing by hand. It's come out pretty well, but I do ache now, and have only polished one!!! There must be an easier way... (apart from paying..........)

 

 

Yeah it's called a turning lathe

If you could simulate a lathe. ie get the wheel spinning it would make polishing a lip with emery alot easier.

[welshpug 1,657]

sure I've seen a video of an American dude and his golf, set of real deep dish polished rims, pop the front on stands and fired it up, stuck it in gear and polish away

 

ingenious solution IMO!!

[sonofsam 5]

I was thinking more a powerfull drill in a bench vice and a well made spigot to bolt the wheel to the chuck!

[steve@cornwall 100]

Similar to how I lost the last two fingers

[sonofsam 5]

Thought I had seen pictures before, sorry mate!

Touch wood I have been working lathes for 10 years now and still got 'em all, been too close a good few times though!

[Paintguy 0]

I just had mine refurb'd and apparantly, they spray the whole wheel grey then turn the rim to remove the paint back to bare metal.

I'd do it that way too, but since I don't have access to a lathe, I'd just carefully sand the rim back to bare metal and polish it up. A powered sander really helps here, but it can be one by hand eventually.

 

You can get a lacquer especially designed for polish metal - have a look on Frost Automotive's site for a product called Glisten.

[steve@cornwall 100]

I'd do it that way too, but since I don't have access to a lathe, I'd just carefully sand the rim back to bare metal and polish it up. A powered sander really helps here, but it can be one by hand eventually.

 

You can get a lacquer especially designed for polish metal - have a look on Frost Automotive's site for a product called Glisten.

 

Looks good, but I don't have access to a compressor I guess I'll have to leave the lip un-laquered. I'll experiment to get no "step" , probably masking off leaving a thin oversprayed piece on the outer rim that can be sanded off and re-polished.

 

Weather's too crap to paint today

[Paintguy 0]

Looks good, but I don't have access to a compressor

 

It's designed to be brush-on, hence this bit:

 

This two part coating won't chip, peel or fade and dries without brush marks.

 

 

It's a bit expensive though, so your idea might be the best bet. Mask off as well as you can, so you have the minimum amount to sand back, then just polish the lips regularly to keep them shiny

[1 FAT PUG 39]

shame you want closer otherwise i could have polished the lip for you for £10 a rim if you had the paint off

[steve@cornwall 100]

One down - three (four?) to go!!!

 

[daveyboyblack 1]

Well that one's looking pretty mint! How long has it taken from start to finish?

 

I'm thinking of doing this on my wheels as the rims are currently painted white but that's starting to peel so thinking some bare metal would look better!

 

Here's mine at the mo...

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii9/dav...ck/DSC05060.jpg

 

What does anyone else think? Am I better off keeping them white, or would some more traditional goodwood style do it better?

 

Dave

[steve@cornwall 100]

Well that one's looking pretty mint! How long has it taken from start to finish?

 

I'm thinking of doing this on my wheels as the rims are currently painted white but that's starting to peel so thinking some bare metal would look better!

 

Here's mine at the mo...

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii9/dav...ck/DSC05060.jpg

 

What does anyone else think? Am I better off keeping them white, or would some more traditional goodwood style do it better?

 

Dave

 

About 5 hrs. / rim

 

This is why I wanted to do them (2 down, now )

 

Edited May 25, 2008 by steve@cornwall

[danpug 1]

Christ steve, you haven't hung around have you!! It'll be a completely different car next time i see it.

[steve@cornwall 100]

Christ steve, you haven't hung around have you!! It'll be a completely different car next time i see it.

 

Still not done the important bits yet, though! (still sitting on your susp. and brakes - and those are your 1.9 wheel bolts, too!) I may have found a disc beam, which will make life easier. I should really be working on getting the other one out of the garage.

[danpug 1]

I've got tuesday and wednesday off so perhaps we can sort out getting some bits done.

[steve@cornwall 100]

I've got tuesday and wednesday off so perhaps we can sort out getting some bits done.

 

Sounds like a plan! - I'll PM you!

[steve@cornwall 100]

Anyone thinking of doing these, carefully applied paintstripper saves tons of time, and varying grades of steel wool instead of wet and dry is tons better. Much of what looks like kerbing doesn't actually go through the paint to the rim, and light kerbing is much easier to deal with than a little corrosion, when choosing wheels to start with.

 

1 to go

Edited May 27, 2008 by steve@cornwall

[sonofsam 5]

Paraffin soaked/resoaked emery doesn't clog up

Hope you were wearing a mask

[shooter mcgavin 37]

this is how i done mine

 

http://www.306gti6.com/forum/showthread.php?id=72272

[steve@cornwall 100]

Well, four rims now done!!! Last one was SMR, so will be the spare when I do no4 Speedline I've always been a bit unsure of the goodwood wheel look, but here , I :) it.

 

I've gone with advice and left the lips un-laquered (and bought a bigger tube of metal polish) which also means I can continue to work on some areas where the sanding marks are still evident close up. All in all, I'm VERY pleased - lots of effort but little cash outlay! my kind of job

 

Reckon it's an improvement?