ifcho 0 Posted May 6, 2008 Hi, Some time ago I purchased a wilwood lever type valve which came with two fittings included. Neither the fittings or the valve is with metric threads. A local lathe guy reworked the fittings and they now accept flared pipes 10x1 perfectly....and I thought everything is perfect, until I tried to tighten the fittings to the valve...they could screw only a few threads (3 1/2). Here is a pic of how much they can go inside (click for large): As you can see they are screwed only a few threads and I seriously doubt that a few threads can withstand the hydraulic pressure...so is something wrong with the valve/fittings? I will have the lathe guy make new adaptors that can be fitted, however I'm wondering why would wilwood supply adaptors that are with the wrong threads? And afterall I must say I'm not too impressed with the quality of this valve..next time I won't be purchasing wilwood...the lever was very loose and the how think looked like it was some DIY assembled valve...the lever was held by a simple sleeve, which is anything but reliable. I have now replaced it with a nut and a bolt and theoperation is much better...combined with some fine machine oil, the lever now goes through all positions much more smoothly and stable Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jrod 7 Posted May 6, 2008 Why didn't you just buy the right fittings? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ifcho 0 Posted May 6, 2008 these ones were included with the valve..so I thought they would be the correct thread/size The problem is not with the pipe entering the adaptor fittings (which is the part that was modified) the problem is that the adaptor fittings are not able to screw fully into the valve also..there isn't very much choice of non-metric fittings available here..so anything non standard must be made on a lathe..lucilly I have a friend which is pretty good at it Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
B1ack_Mi16 67 Posted May 6, 2008 I couln't get mine fully in either, as the threadlock stuff on the threads makes it so hard, I also suspect the threads on the fittings are tapered, NTP? However I do not have a problem with it, no leaks and I guess that's what counts. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
swordfish210 20 Posted May 6, 2008 i just used some male/male 1/8th NPT to M10x1 fittings and then used female fittings on the brake pipe. The willwood valve is a load of crap, get one from Compbrake. better quality and only about £30 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cybernck 402 1 Cars Posted May 6, 2008 nothing to worry about, it's the same story with Tilton bias valve: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rob Thomson 6 Posted May 6, 2008 I wouldn't worry about the hydraulic pressure pulling it apart. You've got a couple of thousand psi, but only acting over the bore area of the pipe. And what's that, one square millimetre? That's 1/625 sq.in. So you're only talking about three or four pounds of push in an extreme event, and that's not much in terms of the strength of a screw fitting even if you do only have one or two threads fully engaged. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ifcho 0 Posted May 6, 2008 Yes, I agree they are crap... Its really strange that you can get these fittings only a few threads..I'm wondering if the thread inside the valve is some type of conical (is this what you call tapered/NPT)? I guess that I will just fit them as you have done. Only problem is that while trying to force one of the adapters it broke in two halves :-D So now I have to get a new one. I have seen one of compbrake's valves knob style and it is not that bad (at least by the looks) at first...we haven't still used it though Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jrod 7 Posted May 6, 2008 I had a compbrake one about 2 weeks before it stopped working heard alot of bad stuff about them. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
