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cheapthrills

Rust Treatment

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cheapthrills

i've taken the fuel tank and rear beam out to investigate the floor underneath, turns out it pretty solid, just surface rust which i'm going to treat

after reading through a load of old topics, the plan so far is as follows

blast, grind, wirebrush etc the rust as much as possible

give the affected areas a coat of loctite 7500 rust coverter, allow it to cure, then sand back and give it one more coat and wipe off immediately

then i need a primer, possibly international red oxide??, or would i be better with a zinc primer?

ideally followed by 2k urethane, top coats etc....or alternatively a couple of coats of aerosol radiator enamel or similar??

 

question is does this sound ok, will i have any adhesion problems with the loctite and red oxide/zinc combo

 

failing that if anyone has an alternative plan?

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Tom Fenton

Personally I'd use which ever rust convertor you decide, then etch primer, then underbody shultz.

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DamirGTI

I'm doing the same job for a lats few days :) , and i'm using Loctite 7500 rust converter ... the thing is , you don't need a primer (zinc/red oxide ..) after applying the Loctite 7500 as it's rust converter and primer , ready for painting straight on when it's finished with chemical reaction (when the treated area appear black) ...

 

Says so on the bottle at least :)

 

Rgs ! :(

Damir

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Pug_101

I would check out the Bilt-Hamber range. Even there car wax stops rust.

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cheapthrills

go straight to the scultz, it would save a lot of grief alright and its not like it needs to look pretty under there, only thing is the schultz will mask the rust if(when) it comes back

 

i didnt realise the loctite was a primer too, must remember to read the instructions next time, i still think a coat of red oxide on the untreated parts might be a good idea for peace of mind

 

i wouldve used bilt hamber or dinitrol but unfortunately couldnt find either on sale locally, hopefully the loctite will be a decent substitute

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DamirGTI

Well i could be wrong (i'm not a bodywork expert :)) but it does says on the Loctite bottle that it's rust converter and rust proof primer too :( all in one (some sort of “new” type converter ..) , and that it's suppose to be painted straight on when it's finished with reaction .. anyway i don't see much point applying red oxide or zinc primer on the area previously treated with rust converter , cos the rust converter already does the job - stopping the rust and forming a protecting coat against further oxidation/rust spreading ... i've been using zinc primer only on the bare metal areas (clean fresh metal to be painted afterwards , not on rusted areas , or rusted areas which i've cleaned ..)

 

But as said i could be wrong :) , bodywork experts will give the right answer regarding this :D

 

(When i was shopping for rust converter i've found Loctite 7500 the most expensive from all the other brands/types so me thinks that it must be a good one ...)

 

Rgs !

Damir

Edited by DamirGTI

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cheapthrills
Well i could be wrong (i'm not a bodywork expert :)) but it does says on the Loctite bottle that it's rust converter and rust proof primer too :( all in one (some sort of “new” type converter ..) , and that it's suppose to be painted straight on when it's finished with reaction .. anyway i don't see much point applying red oxide or zinc primer on the area previously treated with rust converter , cos the rust converter already does the job - stopping the rust and forming a protecting coat against further oxidation/rust spreading ... i've been using zinc primer only on the bare metal areas (clean fresh metal to be painted afterwards , not on rusted areas , or rusted areas which i've cleaned ..)

 

But as said i could be wrong :) , bodywork experts will give the right answer regarding this :D

 

(When i was shopping for rust converter i've found Loctite 7500 the most expensive from all the other brands/types so me thinks that it must be a good one ...)

 

Rgs !

Damir

 

i hadnt considered using it as a primer, only as a spot treatment but i suppose it would be ideal to use it all over, one coat and then a topcoat and the jobs done

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Last Legend

If it were me, yes you could skimp on not bothering to put on a primer on but as the fuel tank is all off why not?I would use the Zinc primer and spray the whole area with Dinitrol or even waxoyl at a push.Just MHO.

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mhyphenl
If it were me, yes you could skimp on not bothering to put on a primer on but as the fuel tank is all off why not?I would use the Zinc primer and spray the whole area with Dinitrol or even waxoyl at a push.Just MHO.

This Bilt-Hamber Stuff looks great on their website, not stupid prices either. Has anybody had any experience with the rust removal stuff, I'm gonna remove under body shell rust with a wire brush then treat in with some of their converter, the red oxide then proper underbody sealant. but for some of the gaer under there like suspension parts and compensators use some rust remover. Good or bad Idea??

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cheapthrills
Maybe this will help:

 

Bilt-Hamber products

 

thanks for that,

thats exactly what i need, minimal effort and a brilliant result. i'll have to see what the shipping cost would be for a few bottles of the deox. was under the car today with the grinder....what a pain in the arse! anything that can reduce the time spent doing that is alright by me

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