Rear Neg. Camper

[mmt 15]

Hi all

 

How much neg camper do you use at the rear?

 

I´ve seen those BTCC/WTCCpeugeots(407/307) and it seems that they run with quite a lot of rear camper.

 

My car is for race only.

 

Do anyone know the setting om the works race cars?

 

/Martin

[Miles 331 1 Cars]

It all depends on what type of tyre you run, It's not just Camber you need to adjust the Toe and caster

[brianthemagical 1]

The above race cars, as far as i was aware, have mulitlink rear sus, therefore there requirments will be totally different from a 205. As the camber is dependant on the trailing arms your best bet is to get the most camber you can, as they are factory road cars it won't be too excessive, so you should be ok.

[Sandy 191]

There's no point ramping up the camber on the back if the front isn't working properly, you'll end up overheating the fronts early. The BTCC etc cars run excessive camber, more than is really necessary, firstly to cause the rear tyres to heat up quicker by sliding more readily from riding on the inside edge and secondly to maintain grip when the car is flicked up hard off apex kerbs.

So unless you can afford to be attacking the kerbs as though the car's a single race, disposable item and you have re-worked the front end significantly enough that rear grip can't match it (very rarely the case without completely re-designing the front geometry, by which I mean resolving the weight transfer and bump steer problems that come from lowering the standard set up); going more than 1.5 degrees on the back will usually be overkill.

As Miles mentioned, rear toe adjustment is what transforms the car.

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

My race pug has the Skip Brown Camber Caster plate fitted the rear hubs, im not sure what deg Camber/Caster this gives however it does seem to hold well

 

I re checked the front last week and needed slight adjustment, im running on the front:

 

30 minute Tow in or 1.5mm Tow in each side (just so that when u take off the wheels tend to straighten out so uve got maximum grip)

 

2.3 deg camber

[crf450 0 1 Cars]

We've done a few trailing arms now, 306 and 205, we've jigged up for the job and re-machine the stub axle bore and calliper mounting bracket face on a CNC maching center so everything runs as std but at our new camber/caster settings.

All the arms that we've done run at 3degrees neg although we can adjust the jig to machine any amount,3 degrees is what the Clio cup cars run and I run my 306 at this and seem to get even temp readings across the tyre.

Edited April 30, 2008 by crf450

[mmt 15]

My rear is both adjustable Camper and toe.

 

3 dg neg camper, how mush is that in mm? I shim the rear to get teh camper and toe.

 

I now run with 1.5 mm neg camper and it has transformed the car quite a bit. Rear tyres now heat up and the grip overall has improved a lot.

 

The works cars although seem to have more than 1.5 mm neg camper at the rear.

 

The front of my car is fully adjustable so I will tweek it acordingly:-) when I get the rear right.

 

 

/Martin

[ricdat 0]

My rear is both adjustable Camper and toe.

/Martin

Hello Martin,

how have you made your rear geometry adjustable?

 

- Rick

[mmt 15]

Can´t really explain. Looked at a 106 maxi works rally car. An early one without Mc.pherson rear uprights.

 

Can´ t you get someone to post a pic of the adjustable kit avaible from some UK guy.

 

My english writing is not good enough for me to explain. I´m sorry!

 

Regards Martin

[Henry 1.9GTi 36]

regarding rear toe, if car is for race only toe out is preferred on the rear as less lock is then needed on the front for the same turn in meaning better tyre wear characteristics through the race. Obviously everything else will need altering to suit but thats the jist of it.

 

may be a bit jittery on the straights \......../ !

[Longfield 0]

If it helps, on my race car I run the following:

 

Rear: 3d neg camber, 0 toe-in/out, 23mm torsion bars, 25mm arb

 

Front: 2.5d neg camber, 2mm toe-out, std arb, 350lb springs

 

Longfield.

[Cameron 16]

Since mine isn't adjustable, 1.5 degrees negative camber and 0 degrees toe from ZX arms. Made a decent improvement in rear end grip. Front is 1.5 degrees negative and 1mm toe-out. I would like to get some toe-out on the back, but not keen on giving it much more static camber (since that's all you can change) for breaking's sake. Would probably be better trying to stop the weight transfer and roll (without using thicker arb's) which is why I propose a carbon rich diet.

Edited October 20, 2008 by Cameron